Deep Fried Squid (Calamari Fritti)

This is another recipe that I had the opportunity to document during my last Italy visit: deep fried squid. Unlike the potato crusted sea bream dish, calamari have always been standard in my family, ideal for a Sunday meal, especially in the summer. Naturally, this second course needs to be paired with a starter and/or a first course. Should be served accompanied with lemon wedges, bread or grissini for the table, and chilled white wine. Goes well with a side of green salad (lettuce, white vinegar, salt, and olive oil).

Deep Fried Squid (Calamari Fritti)

Yield: 4 servings

Total Time: 30 minutes

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Cook Time: 10 minutes

Deep Fried Squid (Calamari Fritti)

Ingredients

  • 800 grams whole squids (uncleaned)
  • 1 liter peanut oil
  • half cup all-purpose flour
  • salt
  • 1 lemon, sliced in wedges

Preparation

  1. Clean and wash the squid, then slice it coarsely, lay it on a cloth, and pat it dry with paper towel. It's very important for the squid to be very dry or it will splash during frying.
  2. Put some flour on a plate. A few at a time, transfer the squid pieces onto the flour.
  3. Cover well in flour, ensuring that the flour goes inside the rings.
  4. Shake off any excess using a sieve.
  5. In a deep-frying pan, allow the oil to reach a very high temperature (4-5 minutes at high heat).
  6. Place the floured squid pieces onto the frying sieve. Depending on the size of your frying pan, you may have to deep fry in batches.
  7. Submerge the squid pieces and deep fry for 2.5 minutes at high heat.
  8. Drain the pieces and let them rest for a minute on paper towel. Proceed with the next batch.
  9. Serve seasoned with salt, along with lemon wedges.

Notes

Can also add shrimp for extra flavor.

https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2019/05/deep-fried-squid-calamari-fritti.html

Potato Crusted Sea Bream (Orata in Crosta di Patate)

During my last Italy trip, I got a chance to document the making of a dish that has become a staple in my family: potato-crusted sea bream. Based on a quick search, it appears to be quite popular in Italy and it has started to be featured internationally on restaurant menus.

Quite possibly, the diffusion of this preparation follows the increased popularity of Orata (Gilt-head sea bream) and Branzino (European seabass), two kinds of marine white fish that are delicately flavored and low in fat, but still moist and tender.

This is my mother’s take on the dish, a festive second course that showcases its simple but noble ingredients.

Potato Crusted Sea Bream (Orata in Crosta di Patate)

Yield: 3 servings

Total Time: 1 hour

Prep Time: 25 minutes

Cook Time: 35 minutes

Potato Crusted Sea Bream (Orata in Crosta di Patate)

Ingredients

  • 3 sea bream fillets, skin on, can also use seabass
  • 3 yellow potatoes, sliced 3-4 mm (1/8 inch) thick
  • 3-4 rosemary twigs, needles detached and finely chopped
  • olive oil
  • salt & white pepper

Preparation

  1. Mince the rosemary needles, we used a 'mezzaluna' knife, but a chef knife will do.
  2. Peel and wash the potatoes.
  3. Slice the potatoes. We used a food processor with a slicing blade, but a mandoline slicer works too. It's important that the slices are not too thin and not too thick, therefore slicing them by hand is not advisable.
  4. Allow the slices to rest on a towel and pat them dry with some paper towel.
  5. Line the bottom and sides of a large bowl with potato slices and dress with a sprinkle of olive oil, salt, pepper, chopped rosemary.
  6. Then add another layer of potato slices and repeat the seasoning. Continue until you've used all potato slices, then gently slide them around in the bowl to complete the seasoning. Preheat the oven at 200 C.
  7. Put the fish fillets, skin down, on lightly oiled parchment paper, season them with salt, pepper, and rosemary.
  8. Cover each fillet with partially overlapped potato slices.
  9. Cook in the oven for 30-35 minutes at 200 C.
  10. Serve accompanied with a green salad.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2019/05/potato-crusted-sea-bream.html

Deep-Fried Battered Cauliflower

Battered deep-fried cauliflower (‘cavolfiore in pastella,’ in Italian) is an appetizing side dish which originates in Sicily but can be found in many variations all around Italy.

Out of the various kinds of batter, this recipe describes one that is quite opaque—without being too thick—especially suitable for vegetables (including zucchini flowers, which are fantastic, by-the-way!)

Deep-fried batter has a bad reputation for being heavy. However, if the oil is at the proper temperature, it sears immediately and any excess hot oil (with its lower viscosity) drips right off with draining. Still, the resulting dish is relatively high in calories and generally served in small amounts as a side, or as a vegetarian entrée.

The use of olive oil for deep-frying is somewhat controversial due to its relatively low smoke point. However, if you can control the temperature, olive oil is suitable for frying vegetables (which don’t need to reach extremely high temperatures) and brings an amazing extra flavor to the dish. Out of the different kinds of olive oil, non-extra virgin (or even non-vergin) olive oils are preferred for frying since they have a relatively higher smoke point at a lower price point!

Battered Deep Fried Cauliflower

Yield: 4-6 servings

Total Time: 45 minutes

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Battered Deep Fried Cauliflower

Ingredients

  • 1 medium cauliflower (about 800 g), divided in florets
  • 75 g (2/3 cup) all-purpose flour
  • 30 g (2 Tbsp) butter, melted
  • 100 ml (scant 1/2 cup) milk
  • 1 egg white
  • salt
  • 1 l olive oil (use a non-extra virgin oil for a higher smoke point)

Preparation

  1. In a mixing bowl, combine the flour and the melted butter obtaining a crumbly texture.
  2. Incorporate just enough milk to create a thick cream, then gradually whisk in the rest of the milk.
  3. Whip the egg white until firm (for best results, use an egg at room temperature).
  4. Gently incorporate the whipped egg white, a tablespoon at a time, mixing from the bottom to the top. Season with a pinch of table salt.
  5. Boil the cauliflower florets for 10 minutes until cooked but still firm.
  6. Bring olive oil to frying temperature (if you have a thermometer, reach 150 °C; if you don't, wait 3-4 minutes at medium heat then test the oil with a drop of batter.) Dip a few florets at a time in the batter, shaking off any excess. Then deep-fry the battered florets until golden brown.
  7. Allow the fried florets to dry for 5 minutes on a sheet of paper towel before serving them.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2019/04/battered-cauliflower.html

Mushroom and Cheese Crespelle, the Italian Crepes

Crespelle are the relatively unknown Italian equivalent of the world-famous French crepes. Although very similar to crepes, crespelle are often baked in the oven with other ingredients.

Both in crepes and in crespelle, the batter is mainly made of milk, flour, and egg. The proportions, however, can vary considerably from recipe to recipe. The version I’m presenting is light in the egg and flour, making for a batter that is quite runny and which turns into a thin disc. The resulting crespelle are more brittle than those made with higher proportions of egg and flour, but they are strong enough to be handled and are more similar in flavor and texture to fresh pasta. This makes them a great vessel to hold the filling without overpowering the dish.

The result is a decadent first course that is perfect for a festive meal as an alternative to other baked dishes like lasagna or cannelloni.

Mushrooms and Cheese Crespelle, the Italian Crepes

Yield: 2-3 servings

Total Time: 1 hour, 20 minutes

Prep Time: 1 hour

Cook Time: 20 minutes

Mushrooms and Cheese Crespelle, the Italian Crepes

Ingredients

    For the crespelle
  • 1 egg
  • 75 g flour (5 tablespoons)
  • 250 ml milk (1 cup)
  • 1/8 tsp salt
  • Butter to grease the pan
  • For the filling
  • 400 g mushrooms (e.g. chestnut), sliced
  • 1 Tbsp butter
  • 1 Tbsp olive oil
  • salt and pepper
  • 200 g fontina, raclette, or gouda
  • For the bechamel
  • 1 Tbsp butter
  • 1 Tbsp water
  • 2 Tbsp flour
  • pinch of salt
  • 300 ml milk
  • To assemble the dish
  • Butter to grease the baking pan
  • 2 Tbsp grated Parmigiano

Preparation

  1. Make the batter by working the egg into the flour, then add the salt.
  2. Gradually, whisk in the milk - small amounts at first, then more until all of it is incorporated. The batter will appear quite thin.
  3. Preheat a 6-8 inch (15-20 cm) non-stick pan at medium heat, and brush it evenly with melted butter.
  4. Pour 1 tablespoon of batter into the pan, then quickly swirl it around by tipping the pan until it spreads to cover the entire pan. (Adjust the batter amount if necessary.)
  5. Let the crespella dry and cook undisturbed until you see it browning slightly on the edges.
  6. Using a spatula, lift the crespella at the edge slightly, then continue lifting it using two fingers and fully slide the spatula underneath it.
  7. Move the crespella onto a plate. As you make more of them, stack them on - they won't stick to one another. You should be able to make 8 to 12 crespelle (depending on the size of the pan).
  8. Set the crespelle aside. Roast the sliced mushrooms in a large non-stick pan in a mix of oil and butter at high heat. Make sure not to crowd the mushrooms (you may need to roast them in two batches). When the mushrooms start to soften, add a pinch of salt and pepper. If the mushrooms release water, continue cooking at a high temperature until it reduces substantially.
  9. Make the bechamel sauce in a small pot. Start by bringing water and butter to a boil. Then add the flour and mix vigorously.
  10. When the mix makes a sizzling sound, reduce the heat and gradually pour in the milk until fully absorbed. Then, allow the mix to boil for one full minute for the flour to cook - mix constantly preventing it from boiling over. In the end, the bechamel will appear quite thick and creamy. Set it aside and let it cool down a bit.
  11. As you preheat the oven to 180 C (350 F), fill each crespella with a heaping tablespoon of mushrooms, part of the cheese (the size of a finger), and a tablespoon of bechamel. Roll the crespella gently.
  12. Continue rolling the crespelle placing them side by side in a buttered baking pan. (I used an 8-inch square pan.)
  13. Once the baking pan is filled, drizzle it with the remaining bechamel and cover it with grated Parmigiano.
  14. Bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes until golden.
  15. Note: Instead of using bechamel, the crespelle can be baked with butter and sage. After rolling, cover with sage leaves and butter drops, then bake in the oven until golden.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2019/03/mushrooms-and-cheese-crespelle.html

Braised Fennel

Side dishes have an important role in Italian cuisine. These, often vegetarian, preparations are meant as an accompaniment to a second course, whether it’s meat or fish, a piatto freddo (literally, cold dish) of cheese and/or cold cuts, or a vegetarian preparation. To have a side of braised fennel was common in my family while growing up, and I now make it regularly.

Fennel is known for its aromatic seeds and as a vegetable consisting of the lower part of its stalks, which form an enlarged bulb-shaped bundle(1). As the stalks separate, they become fibrous and are discarded in cooking. Fennel belongs to the umbellifers family along with celery (which it visually resembles), carrots, parsnip, parsley, cilantro, dill, anise, and other plants which tend to produce flowers in umbrella-shaped clusters.

Fennel Nutrition Facts
Fennel bulb (raw)

Fennel has a strong anise aroma due to the presence of anethole, an organic compound also found in anise seeds. Some say that fennel tastes like licorice, but this is really because many licorice candies are flavored with anise.

Nutritionally, fennel is a good source of vitamins (e.g.: C, A), minerals (e.g.: potassium, manganese), as well as carbohydrates in the form of dietary fiber (non-digestible) and sugar (3.9% in weight).

Fennel is consumed raw (e.g.: thinly sliced and added to salads) or cooked (e.g.: roasted, braised, or au gratin). In this recipe:

  • I sliced the fennel perpendicularly to its fibers to tenderize it.
  • I pan roasted it in olive oil and butter to caramelize the sugars and develop flavor through browning.
  • Then, I added salt to enhance the flavor and to extract some water (via osmosis).
  • Allowed the fennel to braise in its own juice covered with a lid at a low temperature.
  • Interrupted the cooking after 15-20 minutes or when the fennel was cooked through but still had a slightly fibrous texture.
Braised Fennel

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 20 minutes

side dish

Braised Fennel

Ingredients

  • 2 fennel bulbs
  • 1/2 Tbsp butter
  • 1/2 Tbsp olive oil
  • Salt

Preparation

  1. Slice the fennel perpendicularly to its fibers, discarding the stalks.
  2. In a non-stick pan, warm up olive oil and butter, then add the fennel.
  3. Roast the fennel at a high temperature, tossing and flipping it frequently.
  4. Add a pinch of salt, lower the temperature, cover with a lid, and allow the fennel to braise.
  5. Cook for 15-20 minutes, stirring from time to time, just until the fennel is cooked through.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2019/02/braised-fennel.html

 

(1)Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. 2nd edition (2004).

Asparagus Risotto with Parmesan Rind

Among the many risotto variations, asparagus risotto (‘risotto agli asparagi’) is one of the most successful, and one of my favorites. There are a few different ways to incorporate asparagus in a risotto. In my recipe, diced asparagus are added in stages, from the bottom of the stalks to their tops, to ensure uniform cooking and to get the most in terms of flavor. For best results, however, it’s recommended to use the freshest possible asparagus. Since the shoots are still actively growing, even if kept in the fridge and in the dark over time they tend to consume their own sugars and to dry out(1).

For this risotto variation, I made use of the Parmesan rind as a way to add more flavor, and because I love eating it in small bites together with the risotto. As I mentioned in a previous risotto recipe, the rind is added at the beginning of the preparation so that it cooks and rehydrates along with the rice. If you haven’t had Parmesan rind, however, you may find it chewy and too strong. In that case, you may want to use it just as a flavoring aid during the cooking and then discard it.

(1)Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. 2nd edition (2004)

Asparagus Risotto

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 20 minutes

Asparagus Risotto

Ingredients

  • 2/3 cup Carnaroli rice (Arborio can also be used)
  • 10 oz (300 g) asparagus (about 12 thick stalks)
  • 1/2 shallot
  • 1 oz (30 g) unsalted butter
  • ½ glass of white wine (at room temperature)
  • 3 cups of vegetable stock
  • ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano
  • some Parmigiano rind, scrubbed and washed
  • salt and black pepper

Preparation

  1. Wash and trim the asparagus. Thinly slice the shallot.
  2. Cut the asparagus in three sections: lower stalks, middle stalks, upper stalks.
  3. Cut the lower stalks lengthwise and add them to the vegetable stock (which you'll have boiling in a second pot).
  4. Slice the middle stalks in ½ inch cylinders.
  5. Slice the upper stalks thinly, but leaving the buds whole.
  6. Sauté the shallot in the butter for a couple of minutes at medium heat, then add the middle stalks.
  7. Add the rice and "toast it" for a couple of minutes, stirring occasionally.
  8. Add the wine and set a 18-minute timer (15 if you're using Arborio rice). Stir until the wine evaporates. Then add the Parmesan rind.
  9. Add the asparagus-flavored vegetable stock, on ladle at a time, stirring constantly until absorbed.
  10. When there are 10 minutes of cooking remaining, add the upper stalks and buds.
  11. When there are 5 minutes of cooking remaining, add 2/3 of the grated Parmigiano.
  12. Continue adding the vegetable stock, one ladle at a time, stirring constantly until absorbed.
  13. Add the last of the stock when the rice is a couple of minutes from being ready: at the end, the risotto will need to be slightly runny.
  14. When the time is up, take the pot off the heat. Add "a nut" of butter and stir gently for one extra minute.
  15. Serve sprinkled with the rest of the Parmigiano and a hint of black pepper.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2019/01/asparagus-risotto.html

 

[Thoughts on the Table – 60] The Basic Rules of Italian Food with David Scott Allen

Blogger and photographer David Scott Allen from Cocoa and Lavender is back on the podcast to discuss a guest article I wrote in collaboration with Diana Zahuranec and other bloggers on “The Basic Rules of Italian Food.” For instance, among the various topics, we talk about the fact that no Italian would dare to cut spaghetti with a knife, to have a cappuccino after a meal, or to cook pasta other than in plenty of salted water at a full boil.

Cocoa and Lavender Right Pasta, Wrong Province

To conclude the episode, David introduces his latest recipe which is dedicated to the traditional Ligurian pasta shape called “Corzetti.”

You can follow David Scott Allen also on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest.

The music in the episode is by www.purple-planet.com.

   

Piadina Romagnola

Piadina is a traditional flatbread from the Italian historical region of Romagna.

The name piadina (plural: piadine) is a diminutive form of piada (used interchangeably to refer to the same preparation), which originates from the Greek pláthanon: “long dish, baking tray.” Since 2014, ‘piadina’ is registered as Protected Geographical Indication (Indicazione Geografica Protetta, or IGP, in Italian.)

Traditionally, piadina is made of flour, water, salt, and a small amount of lard (strutto in Italian). For a vegetarian recipe, the lard can be substituted with olive oil or margarine. Through the centuries, from a simple bread alternative, piadina has become an iconic symbol of the Romagna region and a widely popular product. Nowadays, it can be enjoyed in special establishments called Piadinerie (plural of Piadineria), which can also be found in big northern Italian cities outside of the Romagna region.

The piadina can be served as a kind of bread to accompany meals, but it’s more commonly enjoyed folded in half and filled with various cheeses, cold cuts, or roasted vegetables. One of the most popular fillings is Squacquerone (a fresh cheese which has a protected designation of origin from Romagna), prosciutto crudo (dry-cured ham), and rocket (arugula).

Having grown up in the province of Milan, I only became familiar with piadina during one of my family’s summer trips to the Adriatic seaside resort of Emilia-Romagna, a popular destination for Italian and north European tourists who are looking for long sandy beaches, shallow Mediterranean waters, amazing food, and exciting nightlife. I remember trying my first piadina in a small theme park called Fiabilandia, in Rivazzurra di Rimini. It was filled with prosciutto crudo, and for me, it was a welcome revelation—one of the first of the many kinds of Italian regional food that I went on to discover!

This recipe was given to me by a friend who was born in Romagna. It makes use of a small amount of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) which acts as a raising agent by releasing carbon dioxide at temperatures above 80 °C, making a light, friable flatbread.

Besides cooking, baking soda has many other uses as summarized in this comprehensive article.

Piadina Romagnola

Yield: 4 piadine

Prep Time: 40 minutes

Cook Time: 20 minutes

Piadina Romagnola

Ingredients

  • 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
  • 1 teaspoon of salt (or 1 1/6 if using unsalted margarine*)
  • 2 ounces (1/4 cup) (salted) margarine, at room temperature
  • 1/2 cup of water
  • 1 cup Squacquerone cheese (which can be substituted with Quark)
  • one handful of rocket
  • 20 cherry tomatoes, halved

Preparation

  1. In an electric mixer using the dough blade, combine flour, baking soda, and salt.
  2. Add the margarine and mix until evenly combined.
  3. Slowly add the water, mix until the dough forms a mass around the hook. Knead until smooth, 5 minutes.
  4. Divide the dough into four equal pieces and roll each piece into a ball. Wrap the balls in saran wrap and let them rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
  5. Using a rolling pin, roll each ball into a thin disc, 7 inches in diameter. If you want perfectly round piadine, press a similar sized lid onto the rolled dough, then remove the excess around the edges.
  6. Warm up a non-stick pan on the small burner, at a medium heat. Allow 5-10 minutes for the pan to reach a stable temperature.
  7. Cook one piadina at a time, for about 2-3 minutes on each side. If big bubbles begin to form, flip the piadina sooner to keep the bubbles from growing. Continue cooking, flipping as necessary, until lightly browned small blisters appear on the side in contact with the heat.
  8. Remove the piadina from the heat and let it cool until lukewarm, then fold it in half and fill it with the cheese, rocket, and cherry tomatoes.

Notes

* Salted margarine contains 7 mg of sodium per gram, therefore 2 oz of margarine contain 400 mg of sodium, which correspond to 1/6 teaspoon of salt.

https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2017/01/piadina-romagnola.html

 

 

[Thoughts on the Table – 49] Introducing Food Blogger and Recipe Developer Giulia Robert from Alterkitchen

Thoughts on the Table is back with another Cannolo Award winner: Turin born and raised Giulia Robert from Alterkitchen. I’ve known Giulia for more than five years and it was very special to finally meet face to face, albeit via Skype. Giulia has been a constant presence on the web with her fabulous recipes ranging from classic Piedmontese dishes to modern creations. She is also an active member and editor of MTChallenge, a virtual competition between bloggers, and of the Italian Association of Food Bloggers, best known for its food calendar. Join us in our chat to learn more about Giulia’s background and to hear her describe some of her most successful creations, a series of iconic dishes with a Piedmontese twist! For pictures and recipes, please check out the links below.

You can follow Giulia also on Facebook, Twitter @alterkitchen, Instagram, Pinterest, and Flickr.