Restaurateur and Italian food ambassador Simon Pagotto is back for another great chat!
In the first part of the episode, Simon talks about commercial kitchens and how they differ with respect to domestic kitchens. For instance, he discusses timing, the benefits of professional equipment, dealing with large quantities, and achieving a consistent product.
In the second part, Simon goes through a list of 12 questions he’s been asking other Italian food ambassadors to test their knowledge. You can read the question below, join our chat to hear my answers! Do you agree? 🙂
Questions for Italian food ambassadors
What dairy is in a pasta Carbonara?
Is chicken acceptable in a pasta and if not, why not?
Is there a right way to eat spaghetti? Is the use of a spoon acceptable?
Why do they call Parmigiano Reggiano the king of cheeses?
What’s your favourite pizza excluding a Margherita?
Name another rice dish that doesn’t have the words risotto, arancini or suppli in the name.
Does the word Ragu belong to just one plate or place?
Do you know of a seafood dish that is served with cheese, if so what is it?
Do you consider an area of Italy food more pure than any others?
Do have a favourite region for food and what makes that region so special to you?
Do you know some of the other regions of food as well as your favourite region?
(Optional) Have you ever had a slightly warmed (so the fat just goes clear) salami sandwich on bread with an egg fried in the fat? Or a googy egg (just boiled eggs mashed with olive oil, s & p and fresh chopped parsley) bruschetta for breakfast? No need to answer that one, just try it sometime. LOL.
If you missed it, check out Simon’s first episode here.
Among the many risotto variations, asparagus risotto (‘risotto agli asparagi’) is one of the most successful, and one of my favorites. There are a few different ways to incorporate asparagus in a risotto. In my recipe, diced asparagus are added in stages, from the bottom of the stalks to their tops, to ensure uniform cooking and to get the most in terms of flavor. For best results, however, it’s recommended to use the freshest possible asparagus. Since the shoots are still actively growing, even if kept in the fridge and in the dark over time they tend to consume their own sugars and to dry out(1).
For this risotto variation, I made use of the Parmesan rind as a way to add more flavor, and because I love eating it in small bites together with the risotto. As I mentioned in a previous risotto recipe, the rind is added at the beginning of the preparation so that it cooks and rehydrates along with the rice. If you haven’t had Parmesan rind, however, you may find it chewy and too strong. In that case, you may want to use it just as a flavoring aid during the cooking and then discard it.
(1)Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. 2nd edition (2004)
Asparagus Risotto
Yield: 2 servings
Total Time: 25 minutes
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes
Ingredients
2/3 cup Carnaroli rice (Arborio can also be used)
10 oz (300 g) asparagus (about 12 thick stalks)
1/2 shallot
1 oz (30 g) unsalted butter
½ glass of white wine (at room temperature)
3 cups of vegetable stock
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano
some Parmigiano rind, scrubbed and washed
salt and black pepper
Preparation
Wash and trim the asparagus. Thinly slice the shallot.
Cut the asparagus in three sections: lower stalks, middle stalks, upper stalks.
Cut the lower stalks lengthwise and add them to the vegetable stock (which you'll have boiling in a second pot).
Slice the middle stalks in ½ inch cylinders.
Slice the upper stalks thinly, but leaving the buds whole.
Sauté the shallot in the butter for a couple of minutes at medium heat, then add the middle stalks.
Add the rice and "toast it" for a couple of minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the wine and set a 18-minute timer (15 if you're using Arborio rice). Stir until the wine evaporates. Then add the Parmesan rind.
Add the asparagus-flavored vegetable stock, on ladle at a time, stirring constantly until absorbed.
When there are 10 minutes of cooking remaining, add the upper stalks and buds.
When there are 5 minutes of cooking remaining, add 2/3 of the grated Parmigiano.
Continue adding the vegetable stock, one ladle at a time, stirring constantly until absorbed.
Add the last of the stock when the rice is a couple of minutes from being ready: at the end, the risotto will need to be slightly runny.
When the time is up, take the pot off the heat. Add "a nut" of butter and stir gently for one extra minute.
Serve sprinkled with the rest of the Parmigiano and a hint of black pepper.
Another year has elapsed – this blog just turned six!! As usual, I’d like to stop for a moment and look back at the last twelve months of blogging and podcasting. Before I do that, I would like to thank all who have been supporting me by reading, by listening, and especially by sharing their thoughts via personal messages and comments. It means a lot to me, please keep sending your feedback!
Finally, I’d like to add a note on a technical detail. Last October, this blog was migrated to WordPress! I can’t say it was a trivial task, but the process was much smoother than I initially thought – a testament to the platform and its amazing community. I hope you are enjoying the new layout and functionality.
All in all, year six has been a great year, with lots of new connections and ideas. I am very much looking forward to year seven with the same enthusiasm as when I started in 2010!
Squash risotto (or risotto con la zucca), is a traditional risotto common in all northern Italy. The squash gives an especially mealy texture, and a sweeter flavor to it, along of course with a beautiful orange color. But what is squash, exactly?
Along with melon, watermelon, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, and gourd, squash belongs to a plant family called cucurbitaceae. Even though they’re all fruits, with the exception of melon and watermelon, the cucurbitaceae are used as vegetables. There are two kinds of squash: summer squash (e.g.: zucchini, straightneck squash), harvested as they ripen in the summer, and winter squash (e.g.: acorn squash, butternut squash, spaghetti squash), harvested in fall, when they are fully mature, their seeds have dried out, and their skin has hardened. Winter squashes have historically played a significant role in the kitchen because they can keep for several months (lasting well through winter) and because when cooked they develop an agreeable flavor, and a starchy, mealy texture similar to sweet potatoes*. Out of the various kinds of winter squash, the sub-family called ‘cucurbita maxima’ is particularly notable because of its size. In Italy, it’s generally called zucca gialla o dolce (yellow or sweet pumpkin), an example of which is the zucca mantovana (Mantua’s pumpkin) used to make the renowned tortelli con la zucca (pumpkin tortelli). In North America, cucurbita maxima includes several common squashes: hubbard, turban, kabocha, buttercup, and banana squash. Banana squash is especially suitable for this recipe because of its moderate sweetness and firm texture.
*Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. 2nd edition (2004)
Squash Risotto, a Dish for Winter
Yield: 2 servings
Total Time: 25 minutes
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 15 minutes
Ingredients
250 g winter squash (e.g. banana squash)
¼ white onion, sliced
1 tablespoon of butter, olive oil, or a mix of the two
2/3 cup Arborio rice
2 ½ cups vegetable stock
½ glass white wine, at room temperature
20 g Parmigiano, grated
Salt and black pepper
Preparation
Finely chop onion and dice the squash.
Bring the vegetable stock to a simmer in a small pan.
In a larger pan, roast the onion in butter, oil, or a mix of the two until translucent, then add the squash.
Season with salt and cook until the squash is soft. Put a couple of tablespoons of it aside and keep warm, mash the rest with a ricer (or in the blender).
In the pan where the squash was roasted, add a bit more butter or oil, then toast the rice for a couple of minutes at medium heat until translucent. Add the white wine and stir until it fully evaporates.
Add the mashed squash and stir in the stock, one ladle at a time, allowing it to be absorbed before adding more stock.
Continue stirring and adding stock ensuring that the risotto and the stock continue boiling gently throughout the process.
After 15 minutes of cooking, at a time when the risotto is quite moist, remove it from the heat, stir in the Parmigiano, and let it rest for a minute.
Serve the risotto in bowls and decorate with the cooked squash and a sprinkle of black pepper.
Part of the spirit of Cucina Povera (the Cuisine of the Poor) is frugality and eating anything that can still be eaten. For some ingredients, this even involves a special preparation or a process to make them more edible. And this is certainly the case with Parmesan rind, which is safe to eat, but too hard to chew.
I grew up in one of those northern Italian families that go through a lot of Parmigiano! It’s almost always sprinkled over pasta dishes and an essential component of risotto. Because of this, in our fridge, in the cheese drawer, there were always a couple of pieces of Parmesan rind which were saved for the next risotto. Parmesan rind can also be used to flavor soups, but in my family, we never used it that way.
For the use in risotto, the rind is added at the beginning of the preparation. As the stock is gradually incorporated, the rind releases flavor, while re-hydrating itself and becoming softer. When using a relatively young Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano (a different cheese, similar in flavor, but aged less), by the time the risotto is cooked, the rind will appear substantially thinned, and will be easy to cut with a knife or even the side of a fork. Although it might be an acquired taste for some, the rind will be absolutely delicious when eaten in small bites, along with the risotto. When using particularly aged Parmigiano Reggiano, instead, the rind will still be quite hard at the end of the cooking – if not chewable, of course, it should be discarded (in this case, the rind will be only used as flavoring).
Parmesan rind can be added to all kinds of risotto, but in the case of a radicchio risotto, it is even more desirable. Radicchio, a vegetable that belongs to the chicory family, has a bitter flavor which is especially pronounced when raw, but also present when cooked. Any bitterness can be dampened by adding some saltiness. Because of this, Parmigiano is a great pairing for radicchio. Some people, however, develop tolerance or even a liking for the bitterness of radicchio. If its bitterness is not a problem, thinly sliced fresh radicchio can be added to the finished risotto as a garnish.
Radicchio Risotto with Parmesan Rind
Yield: 2 servings
Total Time: 25 minutes
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes
Ingredients
2/3 cup of Carnaroli rice
3 cups of vegetable or beef stock
1 shallot, chopped
½ radicchio, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon of unsalted butter
1 glass of white wine (red can also be used for a stronger flavor and for color)
¼ cup of Parmigiano, grated
1 or 2 Parmesan rinds, scraped and washed
Some ground black pepper
Preparation
Bring the stock to a gentle boil in its own saucepan.
Prepare the Parmesan rinds by scraping off the top of the rind, the part that would have been directly exposed to the air (fig. 1).
In a second, larger, saucepan, sauté the onion in 2/3 of the butter until translucent, then add the radicchio and continue cooking at medium heat until softened.
Add the rice and stir at medium heat for a couple of minutes.
Add the wine and the Parmesan rind (fig. 2). Set the timer for 18 minutes.
Keep stirring. When the rice dries out a bit, add some stock and go back to stirring (fig.3).
When the time is up, turn off the heat, add 2/3 the grated Parmesan and the remaining butter (fig. 4). Keep stirring for 1 more minute.
Serve in bowls, sprinkle with the rest of the grated Parmesan, some ground black pepper, and (optionally, if the bitterness of radicchio is appreciated) garnish with fresh thinly-sliced radicchio.
Roasted zucchini and/or shrimp are common additions to saffron-based pasta sauces. This recipe, however, is about the simplest saffron sauce, which is just made of saffron and cream.
The fat contained in the cream has the ability to bind with parts of the saffron compound that are not water-soluble, thus extracting even more saffron flavor. Just like in Milanese-style risotto, the addition of Parmigiano brings extra depth and completes the dish.
This recipes makes use of a full packet of ground saffron. Ground saffron dissolves more easily and ultimately gives a more intense flavor (for the same amount of weight) than saffron strands. However, since saffron powder may not always be 100% pure, it is important to buy a high-quality brand (such as the Italian “Tre Cuochi” or “Leprotto”). Even though saffron is the world’s most expensive spice, a package of saffron is quite affordable since it only contains between 0.10 and 0.15 grams of powder (Italian saffron can be found in specialty stores for about $2 a package).
Saffron Penne
Yield: 2 servings
Cook Time: 15 minutes
Ingredients
140 g (1 1/3 cups) dried penne
150 ml (2/3 cup) cream
1 packet ground saffron (0.125 g or 1/230 oz)
20 g Parmigiano Reggiano (4 tablespoons), freshly grated
Leeks (‘porri’, in Italian) have thickening properties and a more complex flavor profile than onions, thanks to the cabbage hints of their upper leaves(1). When replacing onion for leek in a risotto, the resulting dish is creamier and with more depth. Saffron is traditional in Milanese style risotto, but also a spice that goes amazingly well with leek, bringing an additional element to this first course. The preparation of any kind of risotto is very reliable, as long as a few tips (below) are kept in mind.
(1) Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. 2nd edition (2004).
In a second, larger, pot melt 1 tablespoon of butter (fig. 1).
Add the leek to the butter (fig. 2) and roast it at medium heat until tender.
Add the rice and toast it with the leek for 2-3 minutes (fig. 3).
Add the wine and let it evaporate while stirring constantly. Reset the clock - the rice cooking time will be between 15 minutes (for Arborio) and 18 minutes (for Carnaroli).
Add the vegetable broth, one ladle at a time, while stirring frequently (fig. 4). Ensure that both the risotto and the broth are kept simmering.
When the rice is almost ready, dissolve the saffron in one ladle of broth and then add it to the pot. By the time the rice will be ready, the risotto will need to be quite soft, but without any excess liquid left in the pot.
When the time is up, take the pot off the heat.
Stir in ½ of the grated Parmigiano and the remaining ½ tablespoon of butter, adjust the salt if necessary.
Let the risotto rest for 1 minute.
Serve sprinkled with the rest of the Parmigiano and some ground black pepper.
Rice plays an important role in Italian cuisine, especially in the North as the main ingredient of risotto, and may be found in timbales and soufflés. Rice is also an alternative to pasta in soups and salads, whereas rice flour is used to make specialty bread, pasta, and even cookies.
Not all rice varieties are the same, however. In this article, we will describe the difference between the various types and how it relates to their distinct culinary uses. This will also reveal the secret of the best risotto rice. We will also touch on the fundamental difference between Parboiled (popular in Italy and almost unknown in North America) and Instant rice (almost unknown in Italy).
But, first, what is rice? Rice is the seed of the Oryza sativa grain, or more precisely of one of its two main sub-species: Indica and Japonica. Even though nowadays rice is cultivated almost everywhere in the world (though China, India, and Indonesia are by far the biggest producers), rice was first domesticated in tropical Asia as early as 7000 BC. The cultivation slowly expanded westward, and in the 8th century the Japonica species, which adapted to more temperate climates, reached Europe. It wasn’t until the 16th and 17th centuries that rice was introduced to the Americas by settlers from Spain and Portugal.
Rice became widely diffused in Italy during the 15th century. Particularly, it found its most ideal growing conditions in the Po Valley, the vast flatland (650 km long) that surrounds the Po River. Nowadays this area is still at the center of its production (the featured picture shows rice fields in Piedmont).
Even though rice is not an aquatic plant and doesn’t require submersion in water to grow, rice fields are often completely flooded. This ensures a more constant temperature between day and night, which is necessary for this particular grain to develop properly and efficiently.
From a botanical point of view, the rice grain is made of 5 components:
Chaff Bran Aleurone layer Cereal germ Endosperm
To obtain brown rice, the raw grain is milled to remove the chaff. The bran left on the grain gives it the characteristic color and flavor and is responsible for the longer cooking times. For white rice, the milling process is extended to remove the bran, the protein-rich aleurone layer, and the germ. The grain is then polished with fine brushes – a process that also removes oils and enzymes, making the product more stable and easier to preserve.
Compared to brown rice, white rice is lower in fiber and lacks some important nutrients, but it still remains a complete cereal from a nutritional standpoint. According to the USDA National Nutrient Database, aside from water (12%) and carbohydrates (80%, mostly in the form of starch), it contains significant amounts of proteins (7%), vitamins (B1, B2, B3, B5, B6), and minerals (phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, zinc, iron).
Parboiled rice (also called Converted rice) is obtained by quickly boiling or steaming the raw grains before milling them. This ancient process has been used for over 2000 years in India and Pakistan, where it’s still a common treatment for rice. The process results in a product with higher nutritional value than white rice because some of the vitamins in the bran and germ diffuse into the grain. Its grains are hardened and take longer to cook, but remain intact and separated and are less likely to overcook. They are also more stable, resulting in a product that can be stored in the refrigerator after cooking. Less known in North America, in Italy parboiled rice is commonly used for sides and cold salads (Insalata di Riso).
Quick-cooking rice (better known as Instant rice or under the brand name ‘Minute Rice’) is a completely different product. It’s either pre-cooked rice that is then dried to cause fissuring so that it will re-hydrate more quickly, or “reconstituted rice” a cooked mixture of rice flour and hydrogenated oils that has been extruded in rice-shaped nodules. These types of rice require only 5 minutes in hot water to be re-hydrated and ready for consumption, but the nutritional value, as well as flavor and texture, are seriously compromised. Commonly used in North America, Instant rice exists also in Italy but its market is substantially lower.
Let’s now go back to the different types of rice. As we mentioned, all rice contains high amounts of starch, but not all starch is the same. Starch is made of a combination of the non-water-soluble amylose and the water-soluble amylopectin: the proportion between the two components determines the properties of the grain.
Indica rice (e.g.: Basmati) have a high percentage of amylose starch (20-25%) which gives them a firmer structure that can retain high amounts of water (1.4 to 1 by volume). It requires relatively long cooking times, the cooked grains remain firm and separated and become hard when chilled.
Japonica rice has a higher content of amylopectin starch and tends to partially dissolve when boiled. It has faster cooking times and a more limited absorption of water. The cooked grains are stickier and remain tender when chilled. Some Japonica rice has almost no amylose starch (“sticky rice”), whereas some have relatively high amounts (such as the best risotto rice).
1) Basmati rice (Indica, highest amylose, aromatic). Its grains are big, long and thin. 2) Carnaroli rice (Japonica, high amylose). Its grains are big but rounder. 3) Thai Jasmine (Japonica, medium amylose, aromatic). Its grains are smaller.
In Italy, only Japonica rice is produced. It is classified into 4 categories:
‘Ordinario’ (ordinary) is the least valued type. Short, round grain (length < 5.4 mm). Its low content of amylose starch gives it the shortest cooking times (12-13 min) and the highest amount of starch released in the cooking liquid. It’s used to prepare soups, timbales or desserts. Examples are Originario, Balilla, Selenio.
‘Semi-Fino’ (semi-fine). Medium-grain, rounded (length < 6.4 mm); cooks in 13-15 min. Used to prepare broths or dry soups, supplì, croquettes, timbales, appetizers and very soft risotti. Examples are Vialone nano, Lido, Padano.
‘Fino’ (fine). Medium-grain (length > 6.4 mm); cooks in 16 min. Used to make risotti and salads. Examples are Vialone, Sant’Andrea, Ariete.
‘Superfino’ (superfine) is the variety of the highest quality. Medium-grain (length > 6.4 mm). Its high content of amylose starch gives it longer cooking times (18 minutes) and grains that remain separated. It’s the rice preferred for the preparation of sides and risotti. Examples are Arborio, Carnaroli, Roma.
Piedmontese ‘Paniscia’, a traditional risotto with beans, potatoes, and sausage.
This leads to what good risotto rice is all about. While cooking a risotto, the outer part of the rice grain is ground off by the friction of constant stirring while the cooking liquid is gradually added. The starch that is removed mixes with broth and turns into a creamy sauce that binds the grains together. High amylose (i.e. non-sticky) rice with relatively big grains is, therefore, the best choice – Arborio and Carnaroli being the most renowned varieties.
Risotto is a staple northern Italian dish obtained by toasting the rice in the pan and then slowly adding liquid and mixing until absorbed, for as long as the rice takes to cook. Even though the recipe requires constant stirring, the procedure is very easy and guaranteed to produce perfect results as long as the rice is kept at a constant boiling temperature for the correct amount of time.
This recipe serves two hungry people, or three not so much. It takes about 25 minutes from start to finish.
Risotto with Porcini Mushrooms
Yield: 2 servings
Total Time: 25 minutes
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes
Ingredients
1 cup of Carnaroli Rice (Arborio as a second choice)
3 ½ cups of vegetable or beef stock
One handful of dried or fresh Porcini mushrooms
1 tablespoon of chopped onion
2 tablespoons of unsalted butter
1 glass of white wine (best if at room temperature)
¼ cup of Parmigiano cheese (grated)
Some ground black pepper
(Recommended) 1 pouch of Italian saffron
(Optional) 1 green onion or a bunch of chives
Preparation
Bring the stock to a gentle boil (ensure the stock is flavorful, but not too salty).
If using dried mushrooms, wash them well under tap water and then soak them for 5-10 minutes in lukewarm water to rehydrate them. Let any grit sediment settle to the bottom, pick up the mushrooms leaving the dirty water in the bowl.
In a second pan, sauté the onion in 2/3 of the butter until soft and translucent.
Add the rice and stir at medium heat for a couple of minutes (this will "toast" the rice, adding flavor).
Add the wine and set the timer: 18 minutes if using Carnaroli, 15 minutes if using Arborio.
Add the re-hydrated or fresh mushrooms.
Keep stirring. When the rice dries out a bit, add some stock and go back to stirring. (Note: it might be necessary to lower the temperature, but make sure the rice keeps boiling, and so does the stock.)
3-4 minutes from being ready, add the saffron (dissolved in a tablespoon of stock).
When the time is up, turn off the heat, move the pan off the burner and add the remaining butter. Keep stirring for 1 additional minute. At this point the Risotto should be creamy and soft, and without any liquid running around.
Serve in bowls covered with the grated Parmigiano, some ground black pepper and (optionally) garnished with fresh thin-sliced green onion or chives.
Eat immediately, as this dish absolutely can't be reheated.
Notes
Other than mushrooms, many other ingredients can be added as flavors (some of the most common are: leek, artichokes, asparagus, radicchio, Taleggio, Gorgonzola, seafood, sausage).
Even though the flavors are important, Risottos (or Risotti in Italian) are as much about the rice as they are about the add-ons. The particular type of rice and the gradual hydration while stirring constantly is what extracts the starch and gives creaminess and texture to the dish. Using the wrong type of rice or a different cooking technique can completely ruin the result.
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