[Thoughts on the Table – 53] The Boom of Italian Food in the US, with Food Writer Mark Preston

Mark Preston is a food writer, a blogger, and the author of California Mission Cookery, a cookbook on the early cuisine of the Californio population, which he discovered while working as an archivist for the UCLA library.

Last October, he got in touch to tell me about his research on ragù, the Italian meat sauce; he wanted the opinion of an Italian on what he had found. This is how we started collaborating!

In this episode, Mark talks about his encounters with Italian cuisine while growing up in St. Louis, Missouri, and how this experience prompted him to travel to Europe, as he says, “just to go to Italy to eat!”

He also analyzes how the popularization of the Mediterranean diet may have caused a shift in preference from Thai to Italian in Los Angeles, where he now lives.

Finally, he reveals his thoughts on what, in the fifties, caused the Americans to go crazy for pizza! A trend which of course goes strong today.

To end the episode, Mark shares one of his best Italian-inspired recipes: Crayfish Simmered Shrimp and Pesto Penne with Cherub Tomatoes, and invites everyone to try making it!

You can follow Mark on his blog, as well as on Instagram.

   

Saffron Penne

Roasted zucchini and/or shrimp are common additions to saffron-based pasta sauces. This recipe, however, is about the simplest saffron sauce, which is just made of saffron and cream.

The fat contained in the cream has the ability to bind with parts of the saffron compound that are not water-soluble, thus extracting even more saffron flavor. Just like in Milanese-style risotto, the addition of Parmigiano brings extra depth and completes the dish.

This recipes makes use of a full packet of ground saffron. Ground saffron dissolves more easily and ultimately gives a more intense flavor (for the same amount of weight) than saffron strands. However, since saffron powder may not always be 100% pure, it is important to buy a high-quality brand (such as the Italian “Tre Cuochi” or “Leprotto”). Even though saffron is the world’s most expensive spice, a package of saffron is quite affordable since it only contains between 0.10 and 0.15 grams of powder (Italian saffron can be found in specialty stores for about $2 a package).

Saffron Penne

Yield: 2 servings

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Saffron Penne

Ingredients

  • 140 g (1 1/3 cups) dried penne
  • 150 ml (2/3 cup) cream
  • 1 packet ground saffron (0.125 g or 1/230 oz)
  • 20 g Parmigiano Reggiano (4 tablespoons), freshly grated
  • salt

Preparation

  1. While boiling the pasta in plenty of salted water...
  2. Warm up the cream in a large pan. Make sure it doesn't reach the boiling point.
  3. Add the saffron powder and a pinch of salt.
  4. Mix until the saffron is fully dissolved.
  5. When the pasta is ready, drain it well and add it to the pan.
  6. Mix until the pasta is uniformly coated.
  7. Serve in pre-heated bowls, covered with the ground Parmigiano.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/11/saffron-penne.html

Vodka Pasta (Made Vegetarian)

I’ve been away for so long that I feel almost ashamed of myself! Luckily, this is not sufficient to stop me from posting again 🙂

As you can see from the pictures below, I’m cooking in a different kitchen 🙂 – this is part of the reason for my prolonged absence: we have moved to a new apartment and I haven’t been cooking much lately, let alone blogging!

This quick and simple pasta recipe (adapted from the Silver Spoon) is another Italian classic although it’s made with vodka, a classic Russian spirit. Vodka pasta traditionally contains ham, but it can be omitted without taking too much away from the original flavor. As always when cooking with liqueurs and spirits, it has to be noted that any alcoholic content ends up evaporating completely. What is left, however, is more than the drink’s flavor – alcohol as a solvent has the ability to extract aromatic compounds from other ingredients (including some that don’t mix with water), increasing the overall flavor of the dish.

Vodka Pasta (Made Vegetarian)

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Vodka Pasta (Made Vegetarian)

Ingredients

  • 2 Tbsp unsalted butter
  • 2 Tbsp tomato paste
  • 1 Tbsp Italian (flat-leaf) parsley, finely chopped
  • ¼ cup cream (33% fat)
  • ¼ cup vodka
  • 2 cups penne rigate (dried pasta)
  • salt and pepper

Preparation

  1. While bringing a large pot of salted water to a boil, finely chop the parsley.
  2. Melt the butter in a pan, then add the tomato paste and the parsley.
  3. Cook for 10 minutes at low heat, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, start cooking the pasta.
  4. Mix in the cream and the vodka, then continue cooking until the vodka evaporates completely and the sauce thickens again. Season with salt and pepper.
  5. When the pasta is a couple of minutes from being ready, drain it quickly and finish cooking it in the sauce. Serve with a sprinkle of fresh parsley.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/09/vodka-pasta-made-vegetarian.html

Tortiglioni all’Arrabbiata

Sugo* all’Arrabbiata is a classic pasta sauce from central/southern Italy that can be prepared very quickly, while the pasta cooks. This sauce is traditionally quite spicy, and this is at the origin of its name (all’arrabbiata, in Italian means ‘angry-style’). If desired, a milder version can be made, but a certain amount of heat is necessary to counter the acidity of the lightly cooked tomato and enhance its flavor. (*Sugo is another name for ‘salsa’, sauce.)

Tortiglioni all’Arrabbiata

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 20 minutes

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 10 minutes

Tortiglioni all’Arrabbiata

Ingredients

  • 500 g peeled diced tomatoes (fresh or from a quality can)
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 chili pepper (whole or seeded if a milder sauce is desired), minced
  • 2 cloves of garlic, minced
  • some fresh flat-leaf parsley, minced
  • 150 g dried short pasta (e.g.: tortiglioni, rigatoni, penne)
  • salt

Preparation

  1. Mince chili pepper and garlic (fig. 1).
  2. In a large non-stick pan, fry garlic and chili pepper in olive oil for 2 minutes (fig. 2).
  3. Add the diced tomatoes (fig. 3), cook at medium heat for 15 minutes stirring occasionally.
  4. Boil the pasta in plenty of salty water for the time indicated on the box.
  5. Add the well drained pasta to the pan and toss for 1 minute at high heat (fig. 4).
  6. Take off the heat, sprinkle with parsley, serve immediately.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/07/tortiglioni-allarrabbiata.html

Pasta Names Explained

In this atypical post, we will go over some of the most common pasta cuts and describe the origins of their names. We will use the following template:

Italian Name (Literal Translation)
Photograph* (photos are at scale)
[sounds like, the accent goes on the syllable in bold]

The root word that inspires the shape, to which a modifier is usually applied:
-ini/-ine – small;
-oni/-one – large;
-etti/-ette – little & cute.

Main use, e.g.:
dry – boiled in salty water, drained, and served with a sauce;
baked – (often) blanched, then baked in the oven;
broth – added to a soup or broth.

 

Bucatini (Little Hollowed Ones) Cannelloni (Big Cute Hoses)
[boo-ca-tee-nee]
from ‘bucato’ = holed, hollowed
– dry –
[can-nel-low-nee]
from ‘canna’ = hose
– baked –
Conchiglie (Shells) Farfalle (Butterflies)
[con-keel-yay]
from ‘conchiglia’ = shell
– dry, broth –
[far-fal-lay]
from ‘farfalla’ = butterfly
– dry –
Fettuccine (Small Ribbons) Filini (Little Threads)
[fay-too-chee-nay]
from ‘fettuccia’ = ribbon, tape
– dry –
[fee-lee-nee]
from ‘filo’ = thread, wire
– broth –
Fusilli (Little Spindles) Linguine (Small Tongues)
[foo-sil-lee]
from ‘fuso’ = spindle
– dry –
[ling-win-aye]
from ‘lingua’ = tongue
– dry –
Mezze Penne Rigate (Striped Half Quills) Orecchiette (Cute Little Ears)
[met-zay pen-aye ree-gah-tay]
from ‘penna’ = quill
– dry –
[o-ray-kee-ette-aye]
from ‘orecchio’ = ear
– dry –
Pennette Integrali (Small Whole-Wheat Quills) Rigatoni (Large Striped Ones)
[pen-ette-aye in-tay-gral-ee]
from ‘penna’ = quill
– dry –
[ree-gah-tow-nee]
from ‘rigato’ = ridged
– dry –
Rotini (Small Twirled Ones) Spaghettoni (Big Cute Twines)
[ro-tee-nee]
from ‘roteare’ = to twirl
– dry –
[spah-get-tow-nee]
from ‘spago’ = twine, string
– dry, broth (cut) –
Tortiglioni (Big Twisted Ones) Tubetti (Cute Little Tubes)
[tor-til-yo-nee]
from ‘ritorto’ = twisted
– dry –
[too-bet-tee]
from ‘tubo’ = tube
– broth –
* All photos © Quatro Fromaggio. All rights reserved.

Pasta with Gorgonzola

This quick and versatile recipe is another great representative of the cuisine of northern Italy. With any kind of strong, creamy cheese and a handful of always-ready ingredients, this delicious sauce can be whipped together from scratch in minutes. In Italy, there is absolutely no Alfredo sauce! The most famous dish that makes use of a creamy cheese sauce is ‘Gnocchi al Gorgonzola‘, but any kind of pasta can be used – and boxed dried pasta is actually recommended for this dish.

Pasta with Gorgonzola

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 20 minutes

Pasta with Gorgonzola

Ingredients

  • 10 g butter (1 tablespoon)
  • 10 g water (1 tablespoon)
  • 10 g flour (1 tablespoon)
  • 100 g milk (½ cup)
  • some ground nutmeg
  • some ground black pepper
  • salt
  • 40 g Gorgonzola, Cambozola, or other blue cheese
  • One handful of crushed walnuts, pecans or pine nuts
  • 20 g grated Parmigiano
  • 140 g dried pasta. In the picture above you can see whole-wheat 'penne', but any dried pasta or fresh gnocchi can be used. Ricotta and spinach, or cheese ravioli also work very well with this sauce.

Preparation

  1. Put butter and water in a saucepan at medium heat.
  2. When butter has melted, add the flour.
  3. Stir until it sizzles.
  4. Gradually add the milk, stirring constantly. Bring to a boil. Add the nutmeg.
  5. Add the walnuts, the Gorgonzola, the Parmigiano, and adjust with salt and pepper.
  6. Cook the pasta "al dente", then drain it and put it back in the pan adding the cheese sauce. Mix well and serve in pre-heated bowls.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/02/pasta-with-gorgonzola.html

Pasta 101 – A Primer on the Most Iconic Italian Food

Pasta is probably the most recognized Italian dish. And for good reasons. Pasta plays a fundamental part in the diet of every Italian – even daily! This article describes all main pasta types.

Italians like pasta because they know it’s a filling meal that is easy to digest, a great option for the lunch break. The scientific reason behind this is in the high percentage of carbohydrates that pasta contains, a source of ready-to-use energy. Most Italians don’t believe in low-carb diets, since pasta and bread are so entrenched in their culture, although they do know that the excess of carbohydrates will show on the scale.

Now that we have the Atkins debate out of the way (probably the most controversial debate that we will ever have on this blog), let’s talk about the different ways to classify pasta (limiting to its more basic forms, and leaving some of its variations, such as gnocchi or ravioli, for another post).

Short or Long

Pasta can be short (‘corta’) or long (‘lunga’). Examples of short kinds of pasta are: maccheroni , rigatoni, penne, rotini, farfalle. Examples of long kinds of pasta are: spaghetti , tagliatelle linguine .
Even though subtle, the shape, size, and thickness of pasta affect its texture on the palate, and the way it takes the sauce (hence the flavor). Because of this, tradition tends to dictate whether to choose short or long based on the preparation, in some cases even calls for a specific cut (e.g. in the case of penne all’arrabbiata  – not arabiatta!).

The shortest kinds of pasta are usually eaten in broth (‘pasta in brodo’), as opposed to in dry preparations (‘pasta asciutta’). ‘Mac and cheese’ is an exception where a very short pasta is used in a dry dish – this, however, is not a traditional Italian recipe.

Long pasta typically poses some “mechanical difficulties” to those that are not used to eating it. The proper way to eat long pasta doesn’t involve cutting it with a knife! Instead, it consists in rolling the strings around the fork (by rotating it in the hand), optionally using a spoon as support (although this is not common in Italy). Long pasta is known to splash the person eating it, especially if tomato or oily sauces are used. That’s the main reason why in Italy it is not unusual to see people in restaurants wearing napkins around their necks.

Fresh or Dried

Pasta can be fresh (‘fresca’) or dried (‘secca’). Fresh pasta (either industrially made or hand made) is preserved by keeping it in the fridge in air-tight wrapping (and only lasts a few days). Dried pasta is industrially treated to remove its moisture and can be stored for quite a long time even if the box has been opened.

Because of its different texture and flavor, fresh pasta is considered more highly than the dried one, and on certain dishes, it’s almost mandatory. However, quality dried pasta has different properties that work well for certain dishes, and in every day’s cooking, it’s far more popular than the fresh one. Every Italian has their own favorite brand of dried pasta, and they are very loyal to it (the most popular ones are Voiello, Barilla, De Cecco).
Both dried and fresh pasta may or may not contain eggs. Egg pasta has a different flavor and texture that works well for some delicate preparations. Common cuts of egg pasta are tagliatelle, pappardelle, garganelli.

Boiled or Baked

Pasta can either be boiled in abundant salty water, or baked in the oven. When boiled pasta is ready, it is quickly drained and served with a sauce (for best results, boiled pasta should be added to the sauce while still in the pan and allowed to rest in it for a minute). The boiling time is extremely important as you want the pasta to be “al dente” (for commercial pasta, most Italians simply follow the cooking time on the box). The expression “al dente” literally means “to the tooth”, indicating that the cooked pasta should be firm enough to require it to be chewed. The chewing process makes al dente pasta easier to digest than overcooked pasta. Pasta can also be boiled in broth and served in the same broth.

Baked pasta, on the other hand, is filled or layered with other ingredients, covered in sauce, and baked in the oven. If dried pasta is used, it gets sometimes lightly pre-boiled before going in the oven. Examples are: cannelloni  (not caneloni!), or the world-famous lasagna  (plural: lasagne ).

Durum or Regular Wheat

Italian dried pasta is made exclusively with durum wheat semolina. Fresh pasta can be made of regular wheat semolina or even all-purpose flour. Durum semolina is high in gluten, and the pasta made from it holds the cooking much better, i.e. doesn’t overcook as easily as regular wheat pasta. Even the best durum pasta, however, don’t reheat well at all – no Italian would eat leftover pasta the next day. Baked pasta instead can be reheated (sometimes, Italians even bake their lasagnas intentionally the night before and warm them up the next day for a more uniform and intense flavor).

As mentioned, every boiled pasta is served with some kind of sauce, and the sauce has to be in a sufficient quantity to coat the pasta, and just a little more. It’s a common Italian habit to eat the sauce remaining in the plate with some bread. This operation is called ‘fare la scarpetta’, which literally means: doing the little shoe – shaping a chunk of bread like a small shoe and wipe the plate clean!

Regardless of the type of sauce used, grated Parmigiano (or in some cases aged Pecorino) is added (just before serving) pretty much to every pasta dish. A common exception is for sauces containing fish.

It is interesting to note that probably 50% of pasta sauces are traditionally vegetarian – this contributes to making Italy a vegetarian-friendly country.

Every Italian region has its own exclusive pasta sauce recipes, and it would be impossible to mention them all here. However, there are a few families of sauces that are popular all around Italy. Here is a list of them where every sauce is paired with its most typical cut of pasta.

  • Based on just olive oil, e.g.:
    • spaghetti ‘aglio, olio e peperoncino’ (with garlic and chili pepper)
    • linguine with shell fish or other seafood (usually with some garlic and white wine)
  • Based on tomato, e.g.:
    • tomato basil rotini
    • penne all’arrabbiata (spicy, with garlic and parsley)
    • creamy tomato farfalle (with heavy cream)
  • Pesto (basil, oil, pine nuts, Parmigiano), e.g.:
  • Just butter, e.g.:
    • pappardelle (also, ravioli) butter and sage
  • Based on meat, e.g.:
    • spaghetti al ragù (Bolognese)
    • tagliatelle ‘al cinghiale’ (with wild boar)
  • Based on cream, e.g.:
    • pappardelle with mushrooms
    • fettuccine with salmon
    • farfalle with ham and peas
  • Based on eggs, e.g.:
  • Based on cheese, e.g.:

Finally, I can’t help but mention the most common mistakes found in North America. You are likely not going to have an authentic Italian pasta dish if:

  • You are getting served preparations that in Italy don’t exist. For instance:
    • Alfredo sauce. In Italy, there are several cheese and butter sauces, but nothing called Alfredo.
    • Spaghetti with meatballs. There is some evidence of such a dish in some areas of southern Italy, but this dish is virtually extinct in Italy.
  • Your pasta is terribly overcooked – Italian pasta has to be “al dente”.
  • There is too much sauce – pasta is a dry dish, not a stew!
  • There is too much pasta – 80-100 grams (around 3 ounces) is the average amount.
  • Pasta is served with a side of salad or garlic toast – it just doesn’t happen in Italy (however, bread would be on the table).

Also, if you are making pasta at home, using pre-made sauces from a jar is a big no-no. You can buy some OK pre-made Italian sauces, but they don’t compare with the freshly made ones and don’t have a big market in Italy.

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