Category: Recipes

Traditional and less traditional authentic Italian recipes.

Radicchio Risotto with Parmesan Rind – Yes, it’s Edible!

Part of the spirit of Cucina Povera (the Cuisine of the Poor) is frugality and eating anything that can still be eaten. For some ingredients, this even involves a special preparation or a process to make them more edible. And this is certainly the case with Parmesan rind, which is safe to eat, but too hard to chew.

I grew up in one of those northern Italian families that go through a lot of Parmigiano! It’s almost always sprinkled over pasta dishes and an essential component of risotto. Because of this, in our fridge, in the cheese drawer, there were always a couple of pieces of Parmesan rind which were saved for the next risotto. Parmesan rind can also be used to flavor soups, but in my family, we never used it that way.

For the use in risotto, the rind is added at the beginning of the preparation. As the stock is gradually incorporated, the rind releases flavor, while re-hydrating itself and becoming softer. When using a relatively young Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano (a different cheese, similar in flavor, but aged less), by the time the risotto is cooked, the rind will appear substantially thinned, and will be easy to cut with a knife or even the side of a fork. Although it might be an acquired taste for some, the rind will be absolutely delicious when eaten in small bites, along with the risotto. When using particularly aged Parmigiano Reggiano, instead, the rind will still be quite hard at the end of the cooking – if not chewable, of course, it should be discarded (in this case, the rind will be only used as flavoring).

Parmesan rind can be added to all kinds of risotto, but in the case of a radicchio risotto, it is even more desirable. Radicchio, a vegetable that belongs to the chicory family, has a bitter flavor which is especially pronounced when raw, but also present when cooked. Any bitterness can be dampened by adding some saltiness. Because of this, Parmigiano is a great pairing for radicchio. Some people, however, develop tolerance or even a liking for the bitterness of radicchio. If its bitterness is not a problem, thinly sliced fresh radicchio can be added to the finished risotto as a garnish.

Radicchio Risotto with Parmesan Rind

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 20 minutes

Radicchio Risotto with Parmesan Rind

Ingredients

  • 2/3 cup of Carnaroli rice
  • 3 cups of vegetable or beef stock
  • 1 shallot, chopped
  • ½ radicchio, thinly sliced
  • 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter
  • 1 glass of white wine (red can also be used for a stronger flavor and for color)
  • ¼ cup of Parmigiano, grated
  • 1 or 2 Parmesan rinds, scraped and washed
  • Some ground black pepper

Preparation

  1. Bring the stock to a gentle boil in its own saucepan.
  2. Prepare the Parmesan rinds by scraping off the top of the rind, the part that would have been directly exposed to the air (fig. 1).
  3. In a second, larger, saucepan, sauté the onion in 2/3 of the butter until translucent, then add the radicchio and continue cooking at medium heat until softened.
  4. Add the rice and stir at medium heat for a couple of minutes.
  5. Add the wine and the Parmesan rind (fig. 2). Set the timer for 18 minutes.
    risotto-steps_12_wp
  6. Keep stirring. When the rice dries out a bit, add some stock and go back to stirring (fig.3).
  7. When the time is up, turn off the heat, add 2/3 the grated Parmesan and the remaining butter (fig. 4). Keep stirring for 1 more minute.
    risotto-steps_34_wp
  8. Serve in bowls, sprinkle with the rest of the grated Parmesan, some ground black pepper, and (optionally, if the bitterness of radicchio is appreciated) garnish with fresh thinly-sliced radicchio.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2013/11/radicchio-risotto-with-parmesan-rind.html

Home-Style Pizza Competition

An unusual post for this blog, today. Three friends of mine have just competed in a pizza cook-off, and I had the honor to be the head judge 🙂

The contestants were responsible for bringing their own ingredients, including their pizza dough (which they made beforehand). To cook the pizzas, they all used the same oven, set at its maximum temperature (550 °F), with the same pizza stone.

We had two challenges: the first was on ingredients and technique; the second on the choice of the toppings.

For the first challenge, everyone made their best Margherita. Here is what each did.

The first contestant, Stefano, brought a slowly-leavened pizza dough which he had raising in his fridge for 2 full days (see below for his recipe). He used canned, peeled whole San Marzano tomatoes (which he seasoned with salt and olive oil), and fresh “bocconcini” mozzarella. The pizza was assembled and cooked for 7 minutes (until the mozzarella started to become bubbly).

The second contestant, Sandro, used his 1-day leavened dough. He blanched and strained fresh Roma tomatoes, which he then seasoned with herbs, salt, and olive oil. He also used fresh “bocconcini” mozzarella, but he adopted the strategy to add it to the pizza only during the last 2 minutes of cooking (out of the 8 minutes total). He then finished the pizza with basil leaves.

The third contestant, Samuele, also made a 1-day leavened dough. He used canned Molisana strained tomatoes, with some added salt. He used “bocconcini” mozzarella, added at the beginning of cooking, like Stefano’s. He finished his pizza with basil, a hint of Parmigiano, and a generous amount of olive oil.

Here is how this challenge went.

All three contestants used a bit too much tomato sauce. Stefano had the best dough of all three. Sandro’s dough was a close second. Stefano’s tomatoes were good but slightly under-seasoned. Sandro’s tomatoes had the most flavor but were a bit watery (possibly because he used fresh tomatoes). Samuele’s tomatoes were the best of all three, although he put a little too much salt on them. Overall, Sandro’s mozzarella tasted best: being it cooked just slightly, it kept its milkiness, tasting more authentic. Overall, Sandro won this challenge.

For the second challenge, the contestants were asked to show off their best toppings.

Stefano went with a proven combination: speck and fontina. He prepared his Margherita base, with fontina mixed in with the mozzarella. Half-way through the cooking, he topped up the pizza with slices of speck.

Sandro also used his Margherita base, to which he added sautéed onions and gorgonzola cheese. After the pizza was cooked, he topped it off with raw prosciutto.

At this point, we were all too full, and Samuele decided to drop out of the competition 🙂

Overall Sandro’s toppings were considered more creative and with a more distinct flavor then Stefano’s; also because Stefano’s fontina was too mild and we couldn’t really taste it. Sandro also won the second competition!

Stefano's Pizza Dough

#Stefano's Pizza Dough

Ingredients

     Quantities per person.

    • 200 g all purpose flour
    • 125 g cold water
    • 5 g salt
    • 1.5 g fresh yeast (or 0.7 g dry yeast)

    Preparation

    1. I mix water and yeast until the yeast is fully melted. I then add half of the flour. I mix well, then add the salt. Finally, I slowly incorporate the rest of the flour, a bit at a time (it needs to be kneaded well, I use Kitchen Aid for at least 15 minutes).
    2. I then store it in the fridge for 2 days in a sealed container. I add a film of olive oil to keep the dough from developing a crust.
    3. The day of the pizza, I take it out of the fridge. I let it rest for another hour, then I divide it in equal portions, one per person. I put each portion in a different container to do the final leavening at room temperature for 4 to 6 hours.
    https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2013/10/home-style-pizza-competition.html

    Stewed Brussels Sprouts

    Brussels sprout sticks
    Brussels sprouts sticks

    Not everybody loves Brussels sprouts. But, unless you are overly sensitive to bitter flavors, you will find this to be a delicious side dish.

    Brussels sprouts are the buds of a kind of cabbage belonging to the Brassica family (along with broccoli, cabbage, kale, turnip, and mustard). This vegetable has an inherent bitterness that constitutes a defense mechanism, but it can be minimized by first roasting it, and then stewing it. Roasting, in fact, adds flavor due to browning, but mostly allows the inside part of the Brussels sprouts (which is the part where the bitterness is the most intense) to reach an intermediate temperature (60 to 80 °C) which activates the enzymes responsible for the flavor generation. The enzymes’ activity stops when the temperature reaches 100 °C – if this temperature is reached too quickly (like when the vegetables are plunged into boiling water), the bitterness remains intense(1). After roasting, the Brussels sprouts can be stewed to complete the cooking. It’s important, however, not to overcook them since they otherwise develop a sulfur odor.

    But enough of all of this theory! Let’s get on the recipe 🙂

    (1) Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. 2nd edition (2004).

    Stewed Brussels Sprouts

    Yield: 2 servings (as a side)

    Total Time: 25 minutes

    Prep Time: 5 minutes

    Cook Time: 20 minutes

    Stewed Brussels Sprouts

    Ingredients

    • 300 g (10 oz) Brussels sprouts, trimmed and washed
    • 1 T olive oil
    • 1 small shallot, sliced
    • 1 clove of garlic, minced
    • 1 splash of white wine
    • ½ glass of vegetable stock
    • salt

    Preparation

    1. Fry garlic and shallot in olive oil at medium heat for a couple of minutes.
    2. Add the Brussels sprouts, roast for 5 minutes stirring occasionally.
    3. Add the wine and allow it to evaporate fully.
    4. Add the vegetable stock, cover and stew for 15 minutes at medium-low heat.
    https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2013/10/stewed-brussels-sprouts.html

    Tagliatelle Timbale with Wine Gravy – Baked Pasta in Pizza Crust

    A few weeks ago, I was thrilled to be invited by Roz from La Bella Vita to write a guest post for her blog. She asked if I could present a traditional Italian Christmas dish. I didn’t really have a dish that is only for Christmas, so I chose a recipe for really special occasions – an Italian classic adapted from Silver Spoon’s “Pasticcio di Tagliatelle”.

    As I explained on Roz’s blog, “in Italian cuisine, a ‘pasticcio’ (sometimes referred to as ‘timballo’) is a preparation in which several ingredients (including pasta or rice, meats, and sauces) are baked in the oven within a pastry shell or a pie crust. The resulting dish, which looks plain on the outside but reveals rich fillings, was invented in the 1700s by palace chefs precisely to surprise and delight their noble guests. Today, pasticcio is still considered a dish for special occasions, including the Christmas meal.”

    Tagliatelle Timbale with Wine Gravy

    Yield: 3-4 servings

    Total Time: 1 hour, 15 minutes

    Prep Time: 30 minutes

    Cook Time: 45 minutes

    Tagliatelle Timbale with Wine Gravy

    Ingredients

       For the timbale

      • 2 Tbsp (30 g) unsalted butter (including some for greasing)
      • 7 oz (200 g) pizza dough (which can be bought in specialty stores)
      • Some flour (for dusting)
      • 4 oz (120 g) fresh spinach
      • 6 oz (170 g) Cremini mushrooms, chopped
      • ½ oz (14 g) dried Porcini mushrooms, re-hydrated and chopped
      • ¼ cup white wine
      • 1 Tbsp (15 ml) milk
      • 2 Tbsp (30 ml) heavy cream
      • 4 oz (120 g) tagliatelle pasta (either fresh or dried)
      • 1 egg
      • ¼ cup Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
      • Some salt and pepper

       For the wine gravy

      • 1 Tbsp (15 g) unsalted butter
      • 1 Tbsp (15 g) all purpose flour
      • ½ tsp vegetable stock extract
      • 1 cup milk
      • ¼ cup white wine

      Preparation

         For the timbale

        1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
        2. Preheat the oven at 350°F (180°C).
        3. Grease an oven-proof dish with butter.
        4. In a large pan, roast the fresh mushrooms in butter for 5 min at high heat.
        5. Add the re-hydrated mushroom, cook for another 2 min at medium heat (a1).
        6. Add the wine (a2) and allow it to boil until it evaporates.
        7. Cook the fresh spinach in a covered pot (without any added water) at medium heat for 5 min (a3).
        8. When the spinach is ready, squeeze out as much water as possible and chop.
        9. Add the spinach to the pan (a4).
        10. Add milk and cream (a5), adjust salt and pepper.
        11. Cook the tagliatelle in plenty of salted water for 2/3 of their standard cooking time.
        12. Drain the tagliatelle and them to the pan. Incorporate gently (a6).
        13. Roll out the dough to the thickness of 1/8 inch (3 mm).
        14. Line the (greased) oven proof dish with the dough (b1).
        15. Spoon in the filling (b2).
        16. Beat the eggs with the Parmigiano. Pour the mix uniformly over the filling (b3).
        17. Fold the pizza dough fully wrapping it around the filling (b4).
        18. Bake for 30-40 minutes at 350°F (180°C) until the top is well browned.

         For the wine gravy

        1. Warm up the butter in a small pan (c1) at medium heat until it barely melts, then add the wine (c2).
        2. Add the vegetable stock extract (c3). Let it reduce, then add the flour (c4).
        3. Mix until a ball of dough forms.
        4. Add a small amount of milk and whip until you get a creamy texture (c5).
        5. Gradually add the rest of the milk, as you continue whipping.
        6. While stirring constantly, boil for at least 2 minutes until the mix thickens (c6).
        7. Pour the gravy in the bowls, then place a slice of timbale in each bowl and serve immediately.
        https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/12/tagliatelle-timbale-with-wine-gravy.html

        Saffron Penne

        Roasted zucchini and/or shrimp are common additions to saffron-based pasta sauces. This recipe, however, is about the simplest saffron sauce, which is just made of saffron and cream.

        The fat contained in the cream has the ability to bind with parts of the saffron compound that are not water-soluble, thus extracting even more saffron flavor. Just like in Milanese-style risotto, the addition of Parmigiano brings extra depth and completes the dish.

        This recipes makes use of a full packet of ground saffron. Ground saffron dissolves more easily and ultimately gives a more intense flavor (for the same amount of weight) than saffron strands. However, since saffron powder may not always be 100% pure, it is important to buy a high-quality brand (such as the Italian “Tre Cuochi” or “Leprotto”). Even though saffron is the world’s most expensive spice, a package of saffron is quite affordable since it only contains between 0.10 and 0.15 grams of powder (Italian saffron can be found in specialty stores for about $2 a package).

        Saffron Penne

        Yield: 2 servings

        Cook Time: 15 minutes

        Saffron Penne

        Ingredients

        • 140 g (1 1/3 cups) dried penne
        • 150 ml (2/3 cup) cream
        • 1 packet ground saffron (0.125 g or 1/230 oz)
        • 20 g Parmigiano Reggiano (4 tablespoons), freshly grated
        • salt

        Preparation

        1. While boiling the pasta in plenty of salted water...
        2. Warm up the cream in a large pan. Make sure it doesn't reach the boiling point.
        3. Add the saffron powder and a pinch of salt.
        4. Mix until the saffron is fully dissolved.
        5. When the pasta is ready, drain it well and add it to the pan.
        6. Mix until the pasta is uniformly coated.
        7. Serve in pre-heated bowls, covered with the ground Parmigiano.
        https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/11/saffron-penne.html

        Rice and Parsley (Ris e Erburin)

        Having some more Italian (flat-leaf) parsley in my fridge, not an easy find in Vancouver, and looking for something quick to make for dinner, I naturally went back to my childhood for a dish where parsley is the absolute star of the show: a simple soup of rice and parsley. I remember very well my grandma making this dish in the summer, especially when there was a storm approaching and the parsley in the orchard had to be cut quickly so that it wouldn’t get mangled by the rain.

        Like for most northern Italian preparations (Pizzoccheri, for instance), this dish is almost unknown outside of its region of origin. For this reason, for the first time in this blog, I decided to mention in the title the dish’s name in Lombard dialect: “ris” (rice, or “riso” in Italian) “e” (and) “erburin” (literally ‘little herbs’, referring to parsley, or “prezzemolo” in Italian). Certainly, that’s how my grandma called it!

        This soup can definitely be considered an example of Cucina Povera (“Cuisine of the Poor”) for it simplicity and its affordable ingredients. However, the version that I’m illustrating below (adapted from SaleDolce) is slightly more “decadent” thanks to the generous use of Parmigiano and of butter.

        Rice and Parsley (Ris e Erburin)

        Yield: 2 servings

        Total Time: 25 minutes

        Prep Time: 10 minutes

        Cook Time: 15 minutes

        Rice and Parsley (Ris e Erburin)

        Ingredients

        • 3 cups light meat stock or flavorful vegetables and herbs stock
        • ½ cup Carnaroli rice (other medium-grain rices can also be used)
        • 1 ½ oz Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
        • ¾ oz unsalted butter
        • 1 bunch of fresh Italian (flat-leaf), parsley (should yield over 1 oz of leaves)

        Preparation

        1. Bring the stock to a boil, then cook the rice for 15 minutes at medium-low heat.
        2. Wash and dry the parsley, then rip off the leaves and finely mince them.
        3. When the rice is ready, take it off the heat and stir in the butter, Parmigiano and parsley.
        4. Mix gently and serve in bowls, optionally sprinkled with more grated Parmigiano.
        https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/09/rice-and-parsley-ris-e-erburin.html

         

        Vodka Pasta (Made Vegetarian)

        I’ve been away for so long that I feel almost ashamed of myself! Luckily, this is not sufficient to stop me from posting again 🙂

        As you can see from the pictures below, I’m cooking in a different kitchen 🙂 – this is part of the reason for my prolonged absence: we have moved to a new apartment and I haven’t been cooking much lately, let alone blogging!

        This quick and simple pasta recipe (adapted from the Silver Spoon) is another Italian classic although it’s made with vodka, a classic Russian spirit. Vodka pasta traditionally contains ham, but it can be omitted without taking too much away from the original flavor. As always when cooking with liqueurs and spirits, it has to be noted that any alcoholic content ends up evaporating completely. What is left, however, is more than the drink’s flavor – alcohol as a solvent has the ability to extract aromatic compounds from other ingredients (including some that don’t mix with water), increasing the overall flavor of the dish.

        Vodka Pasta (Made Vegetarian)

        Yield: 2 servings

        Total Time: 25 minutes

        Prep Time: 10 minutes

        Cook Time: 15 minutes

        Vodka Pasta (Made Vegetarian)

        Ingredients

        • 2 Tbsp unsalted butter
        • 2 Tbsp tomato paste
        • 1 Tbsp Italian (flat-leaf) parsley, finely chopped
        • ¼ cup cream (33% fat)
        • ¼ cup vodka
        • 2 cups penne rigate (dried pasta)
        • salt and pepper

        Preparation

        1. While bringing a large pot of salted water to a boil, finely chop the parsley.
        2. Melt the butter in a pan, then add the tomato paste and the parsley.
        3. Cook for 10 minutes at low heat, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, start cooking the pasta.
        4. Mix in the cream and the vodka, then continue cooking until the vodka evaporates completely and the sauce thickens again. Season with salt and pepper.
        5. When the pasta is a couple of minutes from being ready, drain it quickly and finish cooking it in the sauce. Serve with a sprinkle of fresh parsley.
        https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/09/vodka-pasta-made-vegetarian.html

        Egg and Smoked Scamorza Pasta – A Carbonara-Inspired Vegetarian Dish

        This vegetarian dish is inspired by the renowned Carbonara. I would not call it “Vegetarian Carbonara” though, as there is no such thing in Italy. If you are interested in the original Roman dish, many Cannolo Award winners have recipes for it, including Memorie di Angelina’s Spaghetti alla carbonara.

        Aside from how it should be called, the dish that I’m presenting is absolutely delicious and fun to eat. Just like for Carbonara, the main execution difficulty is to find the right moisture balance: allow the eggs to firm up “just enough” and not more!

        Egg and Smoked Scamorza Pasta

        Yield: 2 servings

        Total Time: 25 minutes

        Prep Time: 10 minutes

        Cook Time: 15 minutes

        Egg and Smoked Scamorza Pasta

        Ingredients

        • 140 g spaghetti or other long dried pasta
        • 2 eggs, beaten
        • 100 g (3 ½ oz) smoked scamorza (or smoked provolone), thinly diced
        • 3 Tbsp Parmigiano, grated
        • 1 Tbsp unsalted butter
        • 2 cloves garlic, sliced
        • Black pepper, freshly ground
        • Salt

        Preparation

        1. Prepare the ingredients (1), then start boiling the pasta in salted water for the time indicated on the box.
        2. Lightly beat the eggs with the Parmigiano (2).
        3. Roast the garlic in the butter at low heat for 5 minutes (3), then discard the garlic.
        4. When the pasta is "al dente," drain it quickly then toss it back in the pot along with the garlic-flavored butter. Turn on the heat at low. Stir gently.
        5. Add the beaten eggs and cheese, then continue to stir, scraping the bottom of the pan, until the eggs start to firm up (4). It's important to keep the eggs partly runny, as they will continue to cook in the bowls after being served.
        6. Serve immediately covered with the smoked scamorza and some black pepper. The heat of the pasta will soften the cheese and melt it slightly.
        https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/05/egg-and-smoked-scamorza-pasta.html

        Summer Minestra

        For a summer meal, soup is probably not the first thing that comes to mind. But it’s in the summer that we have the best local vegetables and that the body needs fewer calories and more hydration. A soup can actually make for a great summer dish, especially if served lukewarm.

        This recipe is for a ‘minestra di verdure’, a soup of unstrained vegetables (and legumes), which can optionally contain pasta or rice. The well known ‘minestrone’ is just a kind of minestra, usually richer and thicker. In a ‘passato di verdura‘, instead, the vegetables are strained after cooking, either by hand or by using a food mill. The term ‘zuppa’ generically refers to any kind of soup, including broths.

        Soups are considered by many as the simplest dishes to make, but making a good soup is not trivial. The ingredients have to be balanced, bringing the right amounts of sweet, salty and sour to the dish, and the right amount of fats. In a minestra, the texture and the appearance are also important – the ingredients need to remain distinct despite the prolonged cooking necessary for the flavor to develop.

        Italian soups are sometimes served with a sprinkle of Parmigiano, or with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, and they may be accompanied by ‘crostini di pane’ (bread croutons).

        Minestre can be made of countless vegetables and legumes combinations. Here is the recipe for the minestra in the picture above.

        Summer Minestra

        Yield: 4 servings

        Total Time: 2 hours, 20 minutes

        Prep Time: 20 minutes

        Cook Time: 2 hours

        Summer Minestra

        Ingredients

        • 1 Tbsp olive oil
        • ½ onion, sliced
        • 1 carrot, finely diced
        • 2 sticks celery, finely diced
        • 3 or 4 leaves kale, coarsely sliced (a good replacement for 'cavolo nero')
        • 3 or 4 leaves cabbage, coarsely sliced
        • 2 small potatoes, diced
        • 3 Roma tomatoes, diced
        • 4 cups water
        • salt and pepper
        • 4 slices of hard crust bread, toasted and sliced

        Preparation

        1. Stir fry the onion, carrot and the celery in olive oil at medium heat for 10 minutes until tender.
        2. Add the water, the kale, the cabbage, the potatoes and the tomatoes. Bring to a boil, then cover with a lid and lower the heat.
        3. Cook for a couple of hours, stirring from time to time. Ensure that the minestra simmers slowly and doesn't over-boil.
        4. Adjust salt and pepper to taste.
        5. Serve with bread croutons and a drizzle of olive oil (optional).

        Notes

        For a more filling minestra, 10-15 minutes before it's ready, add 80 grams (3 oz) of rice or small pasta (ditalini, quadretti, stelline, avemarie or regular spaghetti cut in small pieces) and ensure a steady boil.

        https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/05/summer-minestra.html