Tag: tomato sauce

Making Basil Pesto in a Blender

This article is about basil pesto, the second most famous Italian pasta sauce, of course after tomato sauce.

However, this is not about the traditional way to make “Pesto Genovese” – using a mortar; there are plenty of good resources on that (as greatly summarized on Food Lover’s Odyssey). This article is about the more modern way to make pesto – using a blender, a method which is quite common also in Italy.

Technically the word “pesto” comes from the Italian ‘pestare’, to pound. Therefore, the purists would argue that this sauce should be called differently when made in a blender.

Aside from how it should be called, does the pesto made in a blender taste the same as the traditional one? Absolutely not. But it does get close, and it’s much better than any pesto that I could ever buy in a jar.

But before we start throwing basil leaves into the blender, it’s important to know that chopped basil is prone to oxidation – it turns dark and deteriorates in flavor when in contact with the oxygen in the air. Luckily oxidation can be countered by allowing the basil leaves to dry completely before blending them so that the oil can create a seal around the chopped leaves, keeping the oxygen away.

Basil also deteriorates and changes flavor when heated too much. To help counter this, the blender must be activated in pulses in order to limit the overall blending time and the corresponding friction produced by the blades. It also helps to chill the blender bowl and blade in the freezer before use.

Pesto sauce is traditionally used on trenette, trofie (pictured below), but also on linguini, spaghetti (as in this post’s feature image), and even gnocchi.

Making Basil Pesto in a Blender

Yield: 4 servings as pasta sauce

Total Time: 15 minutes

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Making Basil Pesto in a Blender

Ingredients

  • 100 g fresh basil leaves (if you can find it, prefer the Genovese kind)
  • 50 g Parmigiano (or a mix of Parmigiano & Pecorino cheese)
  • 25 g pine nuts (possibly, from the Mediterranean)
  • ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon of coarse salt
  • 1 clove of garlic (optional)

Preparation

  1. Gently wash the basil under cold running water and then lay it on a towel and let it dry completely (fig. 1). Do not bend or crush the leaves.
  2. Meanwhile, put the blender's bowl and blade in the freezer for at least 10 minutes (fig. 2a).
  3. Pour all of the oil in the blender, then add the crushed garlic (if using it) and the basil. Give it a few pulses until the leaves are roughly chopped up (fig. 2b).
  4. Add the cheese, grated or cut in small bits, and the salt (fig. 2c). Give it a few more spins.
  5. Add the whole pine nuts (fig. 2d).
  6. Give a few last spins and extract from the blender (fig. 3).

Notes

If the sauce is not used immediately, it can be preserved in the fridge for up to two to three days. Store it in a tall and narrow container (e.g.: a glass) and top it up with an extra tablespoon of olive oil. Before using it, leave the sauce out of the fridge an hour - don't warm it up, or you'll cause the cheese to lump together and separate from the oil. Pesto can also be frozen, in that case some recommend not to add the cheese until the sauce is thawed.

https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2022/01/making-basil-pesto-in-a-blender.html

[Thoughts on the Table – 66] Introducing Giuseppe D’Angelo from Pizza Dixit

This episode’s guest is Giuseppe D’Angelo, the author of Pizza Dixit, the blog on Neapolitan pizza in the world. Born and raised in Naples, Giuseppe made a mission for himself to discover the best Neapolitan pizzerias around the world. In doing so, he investigates how pizza makers outside of Naples can obtain an excellent product by operating on the variables they still can control, such as the dough, the oven, and the choice of ingredients, starting of course from tomato sauce and mozzarella.

During the episode, Giuseppe tries to define what Neapolitan pizza *is*, a controversial topic even within Naples itself, by stating what Neapolitan pizza definitely is not! He also describes how modern pizza ovens can approximate the results of traditional wood-burning ovens while helping pizza makers comply with city regulations.

You can follow Pizza Dixit in both English and Italian on Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter.

Listen now!
   

Buckwheat Gnocchi with Mascarpone Tomato Sauce

This recipe was inspired by a dish I had last summer at Farmer’s Apprentice, a great Vancouver restaurant. For my interpretation, I made rustic gnocchi by mixing in some buckwheat flour, and used mascarpone as a base for a creamy tomato sauce. The result speaks for itself! The dish is really easy to make, but it helps to prepare the gnocchi ahead of time, since they’re a bit time consuming. Enjoy!

Buckwheat Gnocchi with Mascarpone Tomato Sauce

Yield: 2-3 servings

Total Time: 1 hour, 15 minutes

Prep Time: 1 hour

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Buckwheat Gnocchi with Mascarpone Tomato Sauce

Ingredients

  • 9 oz (250 g) fresh gnocchi made following these instructions, but using a mix of wheat and buckwheat flour (in a 3:1 ratio)
  • 5 oz (150 g) cherry tomatoes, halved
  • 1/2 Tbsp olive oil
  • 3 Tbsp mascarpone
  • 1/2 Tbsp unsalted butter
  • 6 grape tomatoes, yellow and orange
  • 6 "cocktail" mozzarella bocconcini (1 inch in diameter), at room temperature
  • a handful basil leaves, chopped
  • salt

Preparation

  1. Roll the buckwheat gnocchi, set aside.
  2. Bring a big pot of salted water to a boil.
  3. Warm up the olive oil in a pan and cook the cherry tomatoes at medium heat for 5 minutes, covered with a lid.
  4. Squeeze the cherry tomatoes using a spatula to mash them, remove the skins.
  5. Add the mascarpone and the butter. Mix until they melt and you obtain a creamy sauce. Lower the heat.
  6. Adjust the salt.
  7. Add the grape tomatoes and cover with a lid for 5 minutes.
  8. Meanwhile, cook the gnocchi in boiling water, until they float.
  9. Drain the cooked gnocchi and add them to the sauce. Mix well and continue cooking for 3-5 minutes in the pan.
  10. Plate the gnocchi, adding the cocktail bocconcini and a few basil leaves to each plate.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2016/08/buckwheat-gnocchi-with-mascarpone-tomato-sauce.html

Chard and Spinach Gnudi, the Naked Ravioli

This recipe was adapted from Domenica Marchetti’s “Swiss Chard and Spinach Ravioli Nudi”, part of her great cookbook The Glorious Vegetables of Italy, entirely dedicated to the prominent role of vegetables in Italian food.

I chose this recipe because I wanted to recreate the gnudi I tasted in a restaurant in Florence during a recent Italian trip, which also happen to have been the first gnudi I ever tasted! Florence is a mere 300 kilometres from my hometown, but regional specialties often remain confined to their native areas.

As pointed out by Domenica, “nudi” (or “gnudi” in Tuscan dialect) means naked. This is because essentially they are “naked” ravioli, i.e. ravioli filling without the pasta wrapper. The use of ricotta makes them light and fluffy, unlike potato gnocchi, which are much denser. It’s important to note that gnudi are used in first courses instead of pasta or gnocchi, they’re not meant to be served with pasta like some kind of vegetarian meatballs!

Gnudi can be prepared in several different ways. The version chosen by Domenica (and which I recreated) sees the addition of spinach and chard (“bietola” in Italian) for a “green” dough that is delicate and smooth, and which pairs well with plain tomato sauce (described here). The process of rolling the gnudi into shape is relatively easy, but it requires time and some patience. The result is spectacular – gnudi are a great first course which can set the tone for a very special meal.

Chard and Spinach Gnudi, the Naked Ravioli

Yield: 2-3 servings

Total Time: 1 hour

Prep Time: 40 minutes

Cook Time: 20 minutes

Chard and Spinach Gnudi, the Naked Ravioli

Ingredients

  • 8 oz (225 g) green chard* leaves, ripped (*a.k.a. Swiss chard)
  • 4 oz (115 g) fresh spinach leaves
  • 6 oz (170 g) cow ricotta, well drained
  • 1 yolk
  • 1/2 cup (50 g) Parmigiano, grated
  • 1/8 cup (15 g) white flour, plus 1/4 cup (30 g) to coat the gnudi
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 1 cup (240 g) tomato sauce

Preparation

  1. Wash the green chard, coarsely rip the leaves and place them, still damp, into a large pot. Cover with a lid and cook for 10 minutes at a medium heat until wilted, stirring occasionally. They will reduce their volume considerably.chard, cooking
  2. Meanwhile, wash the spinach leaves and cook them in the same way as the chard, but only for 5 minutes.spinach, cooking
  3. Remove the greens from the heat and place them in a colander to cool. When cold enough to handle, squeeze them vigorously with your hands or by wrapping them into a clean tea towel. As Domenica predicted, these quantities yielded about ½ cup of squeezed, cooked greens. Place the greens on a cutting board and chop them finely.gnudi greens
  4. In a mixing bowl, combine the chopped greens, the ricotta, the yolk, Parmigiano (keeping 1 tablespoon aside), flour, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Mix thoroughly.gnudi mix
  5. As you bring a large pot of salted water to a gentle boil, start forming the gnudi. Prepare one bowl filled with flour, next to a plate coated in parchment paper. Using your hands, make balls of dough of about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Roll them in the flour until uniformly coated, then place them on the parchment paper.ready to cook gnudi
  6. Boil the gnudi a batch at a time making sure not to overcrowd them (so that they don’t stick to one another, and to ensure the water remains boiling). Gently place them into the simmering water and allow them to cook undisturbed for 6-8 minutes. About half-way through the cooking, they will start floating.
  7. Gently remove the gnudi from the water using a perforated ladle, and place them into a colander. Keep them warm as you cook the next batch.
  8. Have the tomato sauce ready and kept warm in a skillet. Place 2-3 tablespoons of tomato sauce in preheated bowls. Roll the gnudi into the skillet with the sauce until coated, then gently place them into the bowls. Sprinkle with grated Parmigiano, serve immediately.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2016/03/chard-and-spinach-gnudi-the-naked-ravioli.html

Home-Style Pizza Competition

An unusual post for this blog, today. Three friends of mine have just competed in a pizza cook-off, and I had the honor to be the head judge 🙂

The contestants were responsible for bringing their own ingredients, including their pizza dough (which they made beforehand). To cook the pizzas, they all used the same oven, set at its maximum temperature (550 °F), with the same pizza stone.

We had two challenges: the first was on ingredients and technique; the second on the choice of the toppings.

For the first challenge, everyone made their best Margherita. Here is what each did.

The first contestant, Stefano, brought a slowly-leavened pizza dough which he had raising in his fridge for 2 full days (see below for his recipe). He used canned, peeled whole San Marzano tomatoes (which he seasoned with salt and olive oil), and fresh “bocconcini” mozzarella. The pizza was assembled and cooked for 7 minutes (until the mozzarella started to become bubbly).

The second contestant, Sandro, used his 1-day leavened dough. He blanched and strained fresh Roma tomatoes, which he then seasoned with herbs, salt, and olive oil. He also used fresh “bocconcini” mozzarella, but he adopted the strategy to add it to the pizza only during the last 2 minutes of cooking (out of the 8 minutes total). He then finished the pizza with basil leaves.

The third contestant, Samuele, also made a 1-day leavened dough. He used canned Molisana strained tomatoes, with some added salt. He used “bocconcini” mozzarella, added at the beginning of cooking, like Stefano’s. He finished his pizza with basil, a hint of Parmigiano, and a generous amount of olive oil.

Here is how this challenge went.

All three contestants used a bit too much tomato sauce. Stefano had the best dough of all three. Sandro’s dough was a close second. Stefano’s tomatoes were good but slightly under-seasoned. Sandro’s tomatoes had the most flavor but were a bit watery (possibly because he used fresh tomatoes). Samuele’s tomatoes were the best of all three, although he put a little too much salt on them. Overall, Sandro’s mozzarella tasted best: being it cooked just slightly, it kept its milkiness, tasting more authentic. Overall, Sandro won this challenge.

For the second challenge, the contestants were asked to show off their best toppings.

Stefano went with a proven combination: speck and fontina. He prepared his Margherita base, with fontina mixed in with the mozzarella. Half-way through the cooking, he topped up the pizza with slices of speck.

Sandro also used his Margherita base, to which he added sautéed onions and gorgonzola cheese. After the pizza was cooked, he topped it off with raw prosciutto.

At this point, we were all too full, and Samuele decided to drop out of the competition 🙂

Overall Sandro’s toppings were considered more creative and with a more distinct flavor then Stefano’s; also because Stefano’s fontina was too mild and we couldn’t really taste it. Sandro also won the second competition!

Stefano's Pizza Dough

#Stefano's Pizza Dough

Ingredients

     Quantities per person.

    • 200 g all purpose flour
    • 125 g cold water
    • 5 g salt
    • 1.5 g fresh yeast (or 0.7 g dry yeast)

    Preparation

    1. I mix water and yeast until the yeast is fully melted. I then add half of the flour. I mix well, then add the salt. Finally, I slowly incorporate the rest of the flour, a bit at a time (it needs to be kneaded well, I use Kitchen Aid for at least 15 minutes).
    2. I then store it in the fridge for 2 days in a sealed container. I add a film of olive oil to keep the dough from developing a crust.
    3. The day of the pizza, I take it out of the fridge. I let it rest for another hour, then I divide it in equal portions, one per person. I put each portion in a different container to do the final leavening at room temperature for 4 to 6 hours.
    https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2013/10/home-style-pizza-competition.html

    Baked Shells Pasta with Ricotta and Spinach

    As mentioned in the Pasta 101 article, baked pasta has an important role in Italian cuisine. For this cooking style, larger cuts of pasta are layered or stuffed with filling and baked in a pan along with a sauce. The most known examples are lasagna (sheets of egg noodles, layered with Bolognese sauce and Parmigiano), and cannelloni (pasta tubes with ricotta and spinach or meat filling, covered in béchamel and/or tomato sauce). Baked shells pasta, however, would come in at the third place 🙂

    Baked pasta dishes can be made with either dried or fresh pasta. When dried pasta is used, it often needs to be partially pre-cooked by boiling it briefly in salted water. For big cuts like lasagna sheets or cannelloni, this is quite time-consuming as the pieces need to be cooked a few at a time or they tend to stick to each other. Alternatively, “oven-ready” pasta can be put directly into the oven as long as the sauce is sufficiently watery (the excess moisture will be absorbed by the pasta as it cooks). Fresh pasta never needs pre-boiling.

    To ensure proper cooking, it’s often recommended to cover the baking pan tightly with tinfoil, and then remove it part way through the cooking. This is especially necessary when using oven-ready pasta.

    Texture-wise, baked pasta is very different from boiled pasta. Because of the prolonged cooking times and the higher temperatures reached in the oven, the parts that are covered in sauce turn softer, and those that are exposed to the air become gummier or even crunchy. These modifications and the blending between the pasta and the sauce and filling result in a completely different pasta experience.

    Unlike boiled pasta, baked pasta reheats very well – and reheating sometimes even helps develop more flavor (some Italians purposely bake their lasagna the day before!)

    Baked Shells Pasta with Ricotta and Spinach

    Yield: 4-6 servings

    Total Time: 1 hour, 20 minutes

    Prep Time: 40 minutes

    Cook Time: 40 minutes

    Baked Shells Pasta with Ricotta and Spinach

    Ingredients

    • 250 g quality, dried conchiglioni (big shells)
    • 300 g fresh spinach (frozen spinach can also be used)
    • 500 g fresh ricotta
    • 700 g strained tomatoes
    • 50 g heavy cream
    • 100 g Parmigiano
    • 1 egg
    • 20 g unsalted butter
    • salt and pepper

    Preparation

    1. Cook the spinach in a large pot, covered with a lid, at medium-high heat, without any water for 5-8 minutes.
    2. If using frozen spinach, just thaw them and heat them up.
    3. Mix ricotta, egg, Parmigiano, plus some salt and pepper.
    4. Then add the cooked spinach, chopped and squeezed, and mix.
    5. Meanwhile, boil the pasta in salty water for 2/3 of the cooking time on the box. If using fresh pasta, skip this step.
    6. Drain and let the pasta cool off on a towel, then stuff every shell with a tablespoon of filling. Lay them on the baking pan previously coated with butter.
    7. Mix the strained tomatoes with the heavy cream and some salt, then pour on the pasta. Add the butter in small chunks.
    8. Bake for 30 minutes at 350 °F (180 °C) covered in tin foil, then for another 10 uncovered. Serve with a sprinkle of Parmigiano.
    https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/10/baked-shells-pasta-with-ricotta-and.html

    Bell Pepper Pasta

    Italians rarely get tired of a good tomato sauce, but when they do they often resort to a tomato sauce variation. This recipe is based on the simple addition of roasted bell peppers, and of chili for some heat. The resulting sauce is great on pasta, but it also doubles as a tasty dip for toasted bread. The peppers are sliced, roasted in olive oil and then added to a tomato base. If the skins are unwanted or if a smoother texture is desired, the cooked peppers can be strained in a food mill.

    Bell Pepper Pasta

    Yield: 2 servings

    Total Time: 40 minutes

    Prep Time: 5 minutes

    Cook Time: 35 minutes

    Bell Pepper Pasta

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup tomato sauce
    • 2 small bell peppers, red or yellow (seeded and sliced)
    • 1 tablespoon olive oil
    • half of a fresh chili (minced) or 1 teaspoon of chili flakes
    • 140 g dried pasta (e.g.: farfalle, fusilli, rigatoni)
    • a sprinkle of Parmigiano (freshly grated, optional)
    • salt

    Preparation

    1. In a non-stick pan, roast the pepper in olive oil along with the fresh chili (if using it) for 5 minutes at high.
    2. Lower the heat, add the chili flakes (if using them) and cook for 15 minutes covered, adjust the salt.
    3. Strain the peppers in a food mill.
    4. Collect the pulp and discard the skins.
    5. Put the pepper purée back in the non-stick pan and add the tomato sauce.
    6. Cook for another 5 minutes to blend the flavors.
    7. Meanwhile, boil the pasta in salty water for the time indicated on the box.
    8. When the pasta is ready, drain it and serve it with the sauce and a sprinkle of grated Parmigiano (optional).
    https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/08/bell-pepper-pasta.html

    Pesto, Potatoes and Green Beans Pasta

    This recipe describes a common variation of the classic pesto pasta. In Liguria, pesto pasta is often had along with potatoes and green beans, a hearty version sometimes called ‘enriched’ pesto.

    Please see the Making Pesto in a Blender article for tips on how to make the pesto base simply and quickly.

    Pesto, Potatoes and Green Beans Pasta

    Yield: 4 servings

    Total Time: 30 minutes

    Prep Time: 15 minutes

    Cook Time: 15 minutes

    Pesto, Potatoes and Green Beans Pasta

    Ingredients

    • 1 russet potato (about 250 g in weight)
    • 150 g of green beans
    • 250 g of pasta (trofie is the most traditional, linguine or spaghetti are also common).

    Preparation

    1. Dice the potato and cut the green beans in bite-size chunks (fig. 4).
    2. Drop the green beans in a large pot of salted boiling water, cook for 10 minutes (fig. 5a).
    3. Dried pasta generally takes the same cooking time as the diced potatoes (about 10 minutes). If using dried pasta, add it along with the potato (fig. 5b) and cook for the time indicated on the box. If using fresh pasta, start by adding the potatoes, boil for 7-8 minutes, then add the pasta and cook for another 2 or 3.
    4. Put a good tablespoon of pesto in each plate and dilute it with some of the pasta cooking water (fig. 5c).
    5. When the pasta and vegetables is ready, quickly drain it, pour it on top of the pesto (fig. 5d) and stir gently. Serve immediately.
    https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/08/pesto-potatoes-and-green-beans-pasta.html

     

    Pasta e Fagioli

    Pasta e Fagioli (pasta with beans) is a delicious, hearty soup well known in both Italy and North America. In the United States, it’s sometimes referred to as “pasta fazool,” carrying the southern Italian pronunciation of the first Italo-Americans.

    Pasta e Fagioli represents a great example of Cucina Povera (cuisine of the poor), being a traditional dish made with simple and inexpensive ingredients. Many important Italian dishes belong to Cucina Povera (e.g. ‘polenta’, ‘osso buco’, ‘pasta cacio e pepe’) – nowadays they are no longer made out of necessity, they are rather considered sophisticated delicacies.

    There are many ways to make Pasta e Fagioli, my favorite makes use a particular kind of small white beans called ‘cannellini’ and a short pasta called ‘ditalini’, ‘tubetti’, or ‘ditaloni’ (as in the featured picture). This recipe uses tomato sauce, but there are variations without it.

    Pasta e Fagioli

    Yield: 2 servings

    Total Time: 45 minutes

    Prep Time: 15 minutes

    Cook Time: 30 minutes

    Pasta e Fagioli

    Ingredients

    • 1 small carrot
    • 1 stick of celery
    • 1 small onion
    • 2 cloves of garlic
    • 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
    • ½ cup crushed tomatoes
    • 1 can cannellini beans
    • 2 cups vegetable stock
    • Salt and pepper
    • 60 g ditalini pasta (3 handfuls)

    Preparation

    1. Finely chop carrot, celery, onion, garlic and rosemary.
    2. Make a 'soffritto' (stir fry in olive oil, at medium heat, until tender).
    3. Add the cannellini (drained and rinsed).
    4. Add the crushed tomatoes and the vegetable stock; adjust salt and pepper.
    5. Simmer for ½ hr.
    6. Add the pasta and cook for another 10 minutes (or the time indicated on the box).
    https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2010/12/pasta-e-fagioli.html