Author: Paolo Rigiroli

Now based in the UK, Paolo is an Italian who lived in Canada for nearly 18 years and blogs about Italian food and its many aberrations.

Potato Crusted Sea Bream (Orata in Crosta di Patate)

During my last Italy trip, I got a chance to document the making of a dish that has become a staple in my family: potato-crusted sea bream. Based on a quick search, it appears to be quite popular in Italy and it has started to be featured internationally on restaurant menus.

Quite possibly, the diffusion of this preparation follows the increased popularity of Orata (Gilt-head sea bream) and Branzino (European seabass), two kinds of marine white fish that are delicately flavored and low in fat, but still moist and tender.

This is my mother’s take on the dish, a festive second course that showcases its simple but noble ingredients.

Potato Crusted Sea Bream (Orata in Crosta di Patate)

Yield: 3 servings

Total Time: 1 hour

Prep Time: 25 minutes

Cook Time: 35 minutes

Potato Crusted Sea Bream (Orata in Crosta di Patate)

Ingredients

  • 3 sea bream fillets, skin on, can also use seabass
  • 3 yellow potatoes, sliced 3-4 mm (1/8 inch) thick
  • 3-4 rosemary twigs, needles detached and finely chopped
  • olive oil
  • salt & white pepper

Preparation

  1. Mince the rosemary needles, we used a 'mezzaluna' knife, but a chef knife will do.
  2. Peel and wash the potatoes.
  3. Slice the potatoes. We used a food processor with a slicing blade, but a mandoline slicer works too. It's important that the slices are not too thin and not too thick, therefore slicing them by hand is not advisable.
  4. Allow the slices to rest on a towel and pat them dry with some paper towel.
  5. Line the bottom and sides of a large bowl with potato slices and dress with a sprinkle of olive oil, salt, pepper, chopped rosemary.
  6. Then add another layer of potato slices and repeat the seasoning. Continue until you've used all potato slices, then gently slide them around in the bowl to complete the seasoning. Preheat the oven at 200 C.
  7. Put the fish fillets, skin down, on lightly oiled parchment paper, season them with salt, pepper, and rosemary.
  8. Cover each fillet with partially overlapped potato slices.
  9. Cook in the oven for 30-35 minutes at 200 C.
  10. Serve accompanied with a green salad.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2019/05/potato-crusted-sea-bream.html

Deep-Fried Battered Cauliflower

Battered deep-fried cauliflower (‘cavolfiore in pastella,’ in Italian) is an appetizing side dish which originates in Sicily but can be found in many variations all around Italy.

Out of the various kinds of batter, this recipe describes one that is quite opaque—without being too thick—especially suitable for vegetables (including zucchini flowers, which are fantastic, by-the-way!)

Deep-fried batter has a bad reputation for being heavy. However, if the oil is at the proper temperature, it sears immediately and any excess hot oil (with its lower viscosity) drips right off with draining. Still, the resulting dish is relatively high in calories and generally served in small amounts as a side, or as a vegetarian entrée.

The use of olive oil for deep-frying is somewhat controversial due to its relatively low smoke point. However, if you can control the temperature, olive oil is suitable for frying vegetables (which don’t need to reach extremely high temperatures) and brings an amazing extra flavor to the dish. Out of the different kinds of olive oil, non-extra virgin (or even non-vergin) olive oils are preferred for frying since they have a relatively higher smoke point at a lower price point!

Battered Deep Fried Cauliflower

Yield: 4-6 servings

Total Time: 45 minutes

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Battered Deep Fried Cauliflower

Ingredients

  • 1 medium cauliflower (about 800 g), divided in florets
  • 75 g (2/3 cup) all-purpose flour
  • 30 g (2 Tbsp) butter, melted
  • 100 ml (scant 1/2 cup) milk
  • 1 egg white
  • salt
  • 1 l olive oil (use a non-extra virgin oil for a higher smoke point)

Preparation

  1. In a mixing bowl, combine the flour and the melted butter obtaining a crumbly texture.
  2. Incorporate just enough milk to create a thick cream, then gradually whisk in the rest of the milk.
  3. Whip the egg white until firm (for best results, use an egg at room temperature).
  4. Gently incorporate the whipped egg white, a tablespoon at a time, mixing from the bottom to the top. Season with a pinch of table salt.
  5. Boil the cauliflower florets for 10 minutes until cooked but still firm.
  6. Bring olive oil to frying temperature (if you have a thermometer, reach 150 °C; if you don't, wait 3-4 minutes at medium heat then test the oil with a drop of batter.) Dip a few florets at a time in the batter, shaking off any excess. Then deep-fry the battered florets until golden brown.
  7. Allow the fried florets to dry for 5 minutes on a sheet of paper towel before serving them.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2019/04/battered-cauliflower.html

[Thoughts on the Table – 74] Commercial vs. Domestic Kitchens and Italian Food Knowledge, with Simon Pagotto

Restaurateur and Italian food ambassador Simon Pagotto is back for another great chat!

In the first part of the episode, Simon talks about commercial kitchens and how they differ with respect to domestic kitchens. For instance, he discusses timing, the benefits of professional equipment, dealing with large quantities, and achieving a consistent product.

In the second part, Simon goes through a list of 12 questions he’s been asking other Italian food ambassadors to test their knowledge. You can read the question below, join our chat to hear my answers! Do you agree? 🙂

Questions for Italian food ambassadors

  1. What dairy is in a pasta Carbonara?
  2. Is chicken acceptable in a pasta and if not, why not?
  3. Is there a right way to eat spaghetti? Is the use of a spoon acceptable?
  4. Why do they call Parmigiano Reggiano the king of cheeses?
  5. What’s your favourite pizza excluding a Margherita?
  6. Name another rice dish that doesn’t have the words risotto, arancini or suppli in the name.
  7. Does the word Ragu belong to just one plate or place?
  8. Do you know of a seafood dish that is served with cheese, if so what is it?
  9. Do you consider an area of Italy food more pure than any others?
  10. Do have a favourite region for food and what makes that region so special to you?
  11. Do you know some of the other regions of food as well as your favourite region?
  12. (Optional) Have you ever had a slightly warmed (so the fat just goes clear) salami sandwich on bread with an egg fried in the fat? Or a googy egg (just boiled eggs mashed with olive oil, s & p and fresh chopped parsley) bruschetta for breakfast? No need to answer that one, just try it sometime. LOL.

If you missed it, check out Simon’s first episode here.

During the show, we mention several dishes including Canederli, Amatriciana, and Carbonara.

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Mushroom and Cheese Crespelle, the Italian Crepes

Crespelle are the relatively unknown Italian equivalent of the world-famous French crepes. Although very similar to crepes, crespelle are often baked in the oven with other ingredients.

Both in crepes and in crespelle, the batter is mainly made of milk, flour, and egg. The proportions, however, can vary considerably from recipe to recipe. The version I’m presenting is light in the egg and flour, making for a batter that is quite runny and which turns into a thin disc. The resulting crespelle are more brittle than those made with higher proportions of egg and flour, but they are strong enough to be handled and are more similar in flavor and texture to fresh pasta. This makes them a great vessel to hold the filling without overpowering the dish.

The result is a decadent first course that is perfect for a festive meal as an alternative to other baked dishes like lasagna or cannelloni.

Mushrooms and Cheese Crespelle, the Italian Crepes

Yield: 2-3 servings

Total Time: 1 hour, 20 minutes

Prep Time: 1 hour

Cook Time: 20 minutes

Mushrooms and Cheese Crespelle, the Italian Crepes

Ingredients

    For the crespelle
  • 1 egg
  • 75 g flour (5 tablespoons)
  • 250 ml milk (1 cup)
  • 1/8 tsp salt
  • Butter to grease the pan
    • For the filling
  • 400 g mushrooms (e.g. chestnut), sliced
  • 1 Tbsp butter
  • 1 Tbsp olive oil
  • salt and pepper
  • 200 g fontina, raclette, or gouda
    • For the bechamel
  • 1 Tbsp butter
  • 1 Tbsp water
  • 2 Tbsp flour
  • pinch of salt
  • 300 ml milk
    • To assemble the dish
  • Butter to grease the baking pan
  • 2 Tbsp grated Parmigiano

Preparation

  1. Make the batter by working the egg into the flour, then add the salt.
  2. Gradually, whisk in the milk - small amounts at first, then more until all of it is incorporated. The batter will appear quite thin.
  3. Preheat a 6-8 inch (15-20 cm) non-stick pan at medium heat, and brush it evenly with melted butter.
  4. Pour 1 tablespoon of batter into the pan, then quickly swirl it around by tipping the pan until it spreads to cover the entire pan. (Adjust the batter amount if necessary.)
  5. Let the crespella dry and cook undisturbed until you see it browning slightly on the edges.
  6. Using a spatula, lift the crespella at the edge slightly, then continue lifting it using two fingers and fully slide the spatula underneath it.
  7. Move the crespella onto a plate. As you make more of them, stack them on - they won't stick to one another. You should be able to make 8 to 12 crespelle (depending on the size of the pan).
  8. Set the crespelle aside. Roast the sliced mushrooms in a large non-stick pan in a mix of oil and butter at high heat. Make sure not to crowd the mushrooms (you may need to roast them in two batches). When the mushrooms start to soften, add a pinch of salt and pepper. If the mushrooms release water, continue cooking at a high temperature until it reduces substantially.
  9. Make the bechamel sauce in a small pot. Start by bringing water and butter to a boil. Then add the flour and mix vigorously.
  10. When the mix makes a sizzling sound, reduce the heat and gradually pour in the milk until fully absorbed. Then, allow the mix to boil for one full minute for the flour to cook - mix constantly preventing it from boiling over. In the end, the bechamel will appear quite thick and creamy. Set it aside and let it cool down a bit.
  11. As you preheat the oven to 180 C (350 F), fill each crespella with a heaping tablespoon of mushrooms, part of the cheese (the size of a finger), and a tablespoon of bechamel. Roll the crespella gently.
  12. Continue rolling the crespelle placing them side by side in a buttered baking pan. (I used an 8-inch square pan.)
  13. Once the baking pan is filled, drizzle it with the remaining bechamel and cover it with grated Parmigiano.
  14. Bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes until golden.
    15. Note: Instead of using bechamel, the crespelle can be baked with butter and sage. After rolling, cover with sage leaves and butter drops, then bake in the oven until golden.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2019/03/mushrooms-and-cheese-crespelle.html

[Thoughts on the Table – 73] Introducing Francesca Montillo’s new paperback – The 5-ingredient Italian Cookbook

In my chat with Francesca Montillo back in 2016, we talked about her cooking classes and culinary tours of Italy. In today’s episode, Francesca introduces her first cookbook which stems from her experience as a cooking instructor. The 5-ingredient Italian Cookbook is an overview of traditional Italian cooking with 101 regional classics described step-by-step.

During the episode, Francesca shares a behind-the-scenes on the making of the book, from the choice o the recipes to the use of a test kitchen to validate them and photograph the resulting dishes.

You can buy Francesca’s cookbook on Amazon and follow her at Lazy Italian Culinary Adventures as well as on Facebook and Twitter.

Listen now!
   

[Thoughts on the Table – 72] Introducing Kelly Leonardini from Italian at Heart

For episode #72 of Thoughts on the Table, I have the pleasure to interview Cannolo Award winner Kelly Leonardini from kellyleonardini.com.

Being 3rd generation Italian-American, Kelly’s connection to Italy is rooted deep in her ancestry. But her passion for the Italian culture and language has brought her even closer to Italy.

During the episode, Kelly describes how she combines her love of cooking, language, photography, and videography through her blog. She also talks about the importance of conversations and introduces #dolcevitabloggers, a blogger/vlogger community open to everyone who talks about Italy, whether in English or in Italian.

You can follow Kelly also on Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter, Youtube, and Instagram.

Listen now!
   

Braised Fennel

Side dishes have an important role in Italian cuisine. These, often vegetarian, preparations are meant as an accompaniment to a second course, whether it’s meat or fish, a piatto freddo (literally, cold dish) of cheese and/or cold cuts, or a vegetarian preparation. To have a side of braised fennel was common in my family while growing up, and I now make it regularly.

Fennel is known for its aromatic seeds and as a vegetable consisting of the lower part of its stalks, which form an enlarged bulb-shaped bundle(1). As the stalks separate, they become fibrous and are discarded in cooking. Fennel belongs to the umbellifers family along with celery (which it visually resembles), carrots, parsnip, parsley, cilantro, dill, anise, and other plants which tend to produce flowers in umbrella-shaped clusters.

Fennel Nutrition Facts
Fennel bulb (raw)

Fennel has a strong anise aroma due to the presence of anethole, an organic compound also found in anise seeds. Some say that fennel tastes like licorice, but this is really because many licorice candies are flavored with anise.

Nutritionally, fennel is a good source of vitamins (e.g.: C, A), minerals (e.g.: potassium, manganese), as well as carbohydrates in the form of dietary fiber (non-digestible) and sugar (3.9% in weight).

Fennel is consumed raw (e.g.: thinly sliced and added to salads) or cooked (e.g.: roasted, braised, or au gratin). In this recipe:

  • I sliced the fennel perpendicularly to its fibers to tenderize it.
  • I pan roasted it in olive oil and butter to caramelize the sugars and develop flavor through browning.
  • Then, I added salt to enhance the flavor and to extract some water (via osmosis).
  • Allowed the fennel to braise in its own juice covered with a lid at a low temperature.
  • Interrupted the cooking after 15-20 minutes or when the fennel was cooked through but still had a slightly fibrous texture.
Braised Fennel

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 20 minutes

side dish

Braised Fennel

Ingredients

  • 2 fennel bulbs
  • 1/2 Tbsp butter
  • 1/2 Tbsp olive oil
  • Salt

Preparation

  1. Slice the fennel perpendicularly to its fibers, discarding the stalks.
  2. In a non-stick pan, warm up olive oil and butter, then add the fennel.
  3. Roast the fennel at a high temperature, tossing and flipping it frequently.
  4. Add a pinch of salt, lower the temperature, cover with a lid, and allow the fennel to braise.
  5. Cook for 15-20 minutes, stirring from time to time, just until the fennel is cooked through.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2019/02/braised-fennel.html

 

(1)Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. 2nd edition (2004).

[Thoughts on the Table – 71] Introducing Cooking Instructor Marzia Molatore from Bella Cibo

Originally born in Naples, Marzia Molatore grew up near Valtellina, in northern Italy. About 15 years ago, she moved to Vancouver, Canada, where she teaches traditional Italian cooking.

Her case, however, is far more extraordinary than this. Recently, she shared on her blog the truth about the events that affected her life in Italy and which she has now started to leave behind. In the episode, Marzia shares more on her story and I am proud to have had the opportunity to record it directly from her own voice.

In the second part of our chat, Marzia talks about her cooking school and her goal to spread her love for cooking and dining together, as well as inspire more people to cook real food – an objective with which I couldn’t agree more!

You can follow Marzia on her blog, as well as on Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook. Please join me in congratulating her for her incredible strength and fantastic attitude in life.

The music in the episode is by www.purple-planet.com.

Listen now!
   

[Thoughts on the Table – 70] Define Culture Shock – Diana Zahuranec’s Take on Relocating and Moving Back

Diana Zahuranec is back on the show to join the conversation on culture shock – whether it’s associated with relocating, and whether it can also occur when going back. During the episode, Diana shares her experience following her six-year relocation to Italy and her subsequent return to the United States. She also analyzes the life in New York City, where she is now based, in contrast with suburban living in the USA, and in surprising accordance with the Italian lifestyle she was used to in Turin.

This episode’s discussion refers to Diana’s article titled There and Back Again: The transition from Italy back to the USA.

Diana blogs at dianazahuranec.com and can also be found on Twitter @zrdiana as well as on Instagram and LinkedIn.

Diana and I would love to hear your thoughts on this subject! What is your definition of culture shock? Have you experienced it? Was it associated with a relocation? Please add your comments 🙂

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