Author: Paolo

Poppy Seed Potato Bignès on Braised Leeks and Taleggio

Going through my old recipe book, I stumbled upon this delicious dish – true comfort food, Italian style! An amazing entree where soft and creamy potato bignès, covered in nutty poppy seeds and deep fried are laid to rest on a bed of braised leeks and Taleggio! The dish is absolutely simple to make and a guaranteed success. The only challenge lies in finishing the two components more or less at the same time.

This recipe has been adapted from La Cucina Italiana (November 1997, page 58).

Poppy Seed Potato Bignès

Yield: 2-3 servings

Total Time: 1 hour, 30 minutes

Prep Time: 1 hour

Cook Time: 30 minutes

Poppy Seed Potato Bignès

Ingredients

     For the sauce

    • 1 Tbsp butter
    • 1 big leek (or 2 smaller ones)
    • 1 cup (250 ml) milk (for the sauce)
    • 1/2 cup (125 ml) heavy cream (for the sauce)
    • 10 oz (300 g) Taleggio cheese (for the sauce)
    • salt to taste (for the sauce)

     For the bignè

    • 1 small Russet potato (250 g)
    • 1/2 cup (50 g) flour
    • 1/4 cup (50 g) butter
    • 1/4 cup (50 g) water
    • 1/8 of a teaspoon salt
    • 1 egg
    • 1/2 cup poppy seeds
    • 2 cups (0.5 l) olive oil for deep-frying

    Preparation

    1. Boil the potato. Let it cool until lukewarm.
    2. Meanwhile, start preparing the sauce.
    3. Slice the leek in thin rings (fig. a) and sauté them in butter for 10 minutes (fig. b).
    4. Add the milk and cream (fig. c), and stew slowly for 30-45 minutes until thick (at that point take off the heat but keep warm).
    5. While the sauce cooks, start preparing the bignè.
    6. Put the water and butter into a small pan (fig. 1) and bring to a boil (fig. 2).
    7. Add the flour and stir constantly (fig. 3).
    8. Keep the mix on the heat until sizzling, and the mix detaches itself from the pot (fig. 4).
    10. Move the mix into a bowl, let cool.
    11. Add the egg and salt (fig. 5). Mix (fig. 6).
    12. Mash the potato with the ricer and add it to the mix (fig. 7).
    13. Mix everything until smooth, then stir in 1 Tbsp of poppy seeds (fig. 8).
    14. With your hands, make walnut-sized balls, roll them over poppy seeds until completely covered (fig. 9). You should be able to make 8-10 of them (fig. 10).
    15. Deep fry the bignès in olive oil (fig. 11) keeping the temperature at constant 180 degrees Celsius.
    16. When golden-brown, remove balls and put them to dry onto paper-towel (fig. 12).
    17. Finish preparing the sauce by adding the diced Taleggio to it (fig. d). Stir until the cheese melts completely. Adjust the salt.
    18. Serve the bignè while still hot on a bed of sauce.
    https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2013/12/poppy-seed-potato-bignes.html

    [Thoughts on the Table – 16] Introducing “Manu’s Christmas Menus”

    In this episode, I have the pleasure to introduce a new guest: my friend and renowned food blogger Manuela Zangara from manusmenu.com.

    Manuela (or Manu, as she likes to be called) talks about herself as a food blogger, the role of food photography, and the challenge of cooking traditional Italian dishes in Australia, where she lives. She also presents her latest creation: Manu’s Christmas Menus, an eBook containing four Italian-inspired 5-course menus specially designed for the holidays.

    Listen now!
       

    [Thoughts on the Table – 15] Known and Less Known Italian Foods

    This week, Jessica takes us through a number of known and less known Italian dishes – starting from Naples and Sicily, through Rome and Tuscany, to northern Italy. Find out what is authentic and what isn’t, and maybe even discover some dishes you still don’t know.

    Listen now!
       

    [Thoughts on the Table – 14] Cooking Italian in North America

    In this episode, Jessica Burgio talks about the difficulty of recreating traditional Italian dishes in North America and gives her suggestions on how to make use of what’s locally available. She also explains how sometimes regional Italian dishes are hard to recreate even within Italy when taken outside of their native areas.

    Listen now!
       

    [Thoughts on the Table – 13] Meet Jessica Burgio

    Welcome to a brand new series with guest blogger Jessica Burgio! In this first episode, Jessica introduces herself and gives an overview of North American foods from an Italian perspective. Particularly, Jessica focuses on the foods of Florida, where she lives, including Grits, Conch Fritter, Key Lime Pie, and of course Gators! We also talk about Jessica’s husband: Rick Zullo, the author of Italy Restaurant Guide, as Chosen by Italy’s Top Food Bloggers.

    Listen now!
       

    [Thoughts on the Table – 12] Slow Food/Fast Food

    This episode is dedicated to the Slow Food Movement. Join me and Gino De Blasio as we discuss why the Slow Food Movement is essential to Italy and why fast-food has a place but not a home in Italy. Thanks for listening!

    Listen now!
       

    Radicchio Risotto with Parmesan Rind – Yes, it’s Edible!

    Part of the spirit of Cucina Povera (the Cuisine of the Poor) is frugality and eating anything that can still be eaten. For some ingredients, this even involves a special preparation or a process to make them more edible. And this is certainly the case with Parmesan rind, which is safe to eat, but too hard to chew.

    I grew up in one of those northern Italian families that go through a lot of Parmigiano! It’s almost always sprinkled over pasta dishes and an essential component of risotto. Because of this, in our fridge, in the cheese drawer, there were always a couple of pieces of Parmesan rind which were saved for the next risotto. Parmesan rind can also be used to flavor soups, but in my family, we never used it that way.

    For the use in risotto, the rind is added at the beginning of the preparation. As the stock is gradually incorporated, the rind releases flavor, while re-hydrating itself and becoming softer. When using a relatively young Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano (a different cheese, similar in flavor, but aged less), by the time the risotto is cooked, the rind will appear substantially thinned, and will be easy to cut with a knife or even the side of a fork. Although it might be an acquired taste for some, the rind will be absolutely delicious when eaten in small bites, along with the risotto. When using particularly aged Parmigiano Reggiano, instead, the rind will still be quite hard at the end of the cooking – if not chewable, of course, it should be discarded (in this case, the rind will be only used as flavoring).

    Parmesan rind can be added to all kinds of risotto, but in the case of a radicchio risotto, it is even more desirable. Radicchio, a vegetable that belongs to the chicory family, has a bitter flavor which is especially pronounced when raw, but also present when cooked. Any bitterness can be dampened by adding some saltiness. Because of this, Parmigiano is a great pairing for radicchio. Some people, however, develop tolerance or even a liking for the bitterness of radicchio. If its bitterness is not a problem, thinly sliced fresh radicchio can be added to the finished risotto as a garnish.

    Radicchio Risotto with Parmesan Rind

    Yield: 2 servings

    Total Time: 25 minutes

    Prep Time: 5 minutes

    Cook Time: 20 minutes

    Radicchio Risotto with Parmesan Rind

    Ingredients

    • 2/3 cup of Carnaroli rice
    • 3 cups of vegetable or beef stock
    • 1 shallot, chopped
    • ½ radicchio, thinly sliced
    • 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter
    • 1 glass of white wine (red can also be used for a stronger flavor and for color)
    • ¼ cup of Parmigiano, grated
    • 1 or 2 Parmesan rinds, scraped and washed
    • Some ground black pepper

    Preparation

    1. Bring the stock to a gentle boil in its own saucepan.
    2. Prepare the Parmesan rinds by scraping off the top of the rind, the part that would have been directly exposed to the air (fig. 1).
    3. In a second, larger, saucepan, sauté the onion in 2/3 of the butter until translucent, then add the radicchio and continue cooking at medium heat until softened.
    4. Add the rice and stir at medium heat for a couple of minutes.
    5. Add the wine and the Parmesan rind (fig. 2). Set the timer for 18 minutes.
      risotto-steps_12_wp
    6. Keep stirring. When the rice dries out a bit, add some stock and go back to stirring (fig.3).
    7. When the time is up, turn off the heat, add 2/3 the grated Parmesan and the remaining butter (fig. 4). Keep stirring for 1 more minute.
      risotto-steps_34_wp
    8. Serve in bowls, sprinkle with the rest of the grated Parmesan, some ground black pepper, and (optionally, if the bitterness of radicchio is appreciated) garnish with fresh thinly-sliced radicchio.
    https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2013/11/radicchio-risotto-with-parmesan-rind.html

    [Thoughts on the Table – 11] Pesto, Antipasto, and Meatballs

    Gino and I are back with one more episode on Italian misconceptions. Today we are focusing on three more examples of Italian food which has been taken out of context: pesto, antipasto, and meatballs. Thanks for your feedback!

    Listen now!
       

    Home-Style Pizza Competition

    An unusual post for this blog, today. Three friends of mine have just competed in a pizza cook-off, and I had the honor to be the head judge 🙂

    The contestants were responsible for bringing their own ingredients, including their pizza dough (which they made beforehand). To cook the pizzas, they all used the same oven, set at its maximum temperature (550 °F), with the same pizza stone.

    We had two challenges: the first was on ingredients and technique; the second on the choice of the toppings.

    For the first challenge, everyone made their best Margherita. Here is what each did.

    The first contestant, Stefano, brought a slowly-leavened pizza dough which he had raising in his fridge for 2 full days (see below for his recipe). He used canned, peeled whole San Marzano tomatoes (which he seasoned with salt and olive oil), and fresh “bocconcini” mozzarella. The pizza was assembled and cooked for 7 minutes (until the mozzarella started to become bubbly).

    The second contestant, Sandro, used his 1-day leavened dough. He blanched and strained fresh Roma tomatoes, which he then seasoned with herbs, salt, and olive oil. He also used fresh “bocconcini” mozzarella, but he adopted the strategy to add it to the pizza only during the last 2 minutes of cooking (out of the 8 minutes total). He then finished the pizza with basil leaves.

    The third contestant, Samuele, also made a 1-day leavened dough. He used canned Molisana strained tomatoes, with some added salt. He used “bocconcini” mozzarella, added at the beginning of cooking, like Stefano’s. He finished his pizza with basil, a hint of Parmigiano, and a generous amount of olive oil.

    Here is how this challenge went.

    All three contestants used a bit too much tomato sauce. Stefano had the best dough of all three. Sandro’s dough was a close second. Stefano’s tomatoes were good but slightly under-seasoned. Sandro’s tomatoes had the most flavor but were a bit watery (possibly because he used fresh tomatoes). Samuele’s tomatoes were the best of all three, although he put a little too much salt on them. Overall, Sandro’s mozzarella tasted best: being it cooked just slightly, it kept its milkiness, tasting more authentic. Overall, Sandro won this challenge.

    For the second challenge, the contestants were asked to show off their best toppings.

    Stefano went with a proven combination: speck and fontina. He prepared his Margherita base, with fontina mixed in with the mozzarella. Half-way through the cooking, he topped up the pizza with slices of speck.

    Sandro also used his Margherita base, to which he added sautéed onions and gorgonzola cheese. After the pizza was cooked, he topped it off with raw prosciutto.

    At this point, we were all too full, and Samuele decided to drop out of the competition 🙂

    Overall Sandro’s toppings were considered more creative and with a more distinct flavor then Stefano’s; also because Stefano’s fontina was too mild and we couldn’t really taste it. Sandro also won the second competition!

    Stefano's Pizza Dough

    #Stefano's Pizza Dough

    Ingredients

       Quantities per person.

      • 200 g all purpose flour
      • 125 g cold water
      • 5 g salt
      • 1.5 g fresh yeast (or 0.7 g dry yeast)

      Preparation

      1. I mix water and yeast until the yeast is fully melted. I then add half of the flour. I mix well, then add the salt. Finally, I slowly incorporate the rest of the flour, a bit at a time (it needs to be kneaded well, I use Kitchen Aid for at least 15 minutes).
      2. I then store it in the fridge for 2 days in a sealed container. I add a film of olive oil to keep the dough from developing a crust.
      3. The day of the pizza, I take it out of the fridge. I let it rest for another hour, then I divide it in equal portions, one per person. I put each portion in a different container to do the final leavening at room temperature for 4 to 6 hours.
      https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2013/10/home-style-pizza-competition.html