Tag: recipe

Polenta Taragna – An Enriched Polenta from the Italian Mountains

In previous posts, we talked about Cucina Povera, the cuisine of the poor, now becoming “fashionable” in high-end restaurants. This is the case also for polenta – one of the simplest dishes ever conceived.

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Now traditionally made with cornmeal, different types of polenta have been feeding the masses since Roman times, well before the discovery of the Americas and the subsequent introduction of corn into Europe. Earlier polentas were made with millet, rye, spelt, barley, chickpeas, chestnuts or wheat flours.

Polenta cooker at a town fair
Polenta cooker at a town fair

In Italy, polenta is a relatively common accompaniment to stews, braised dishes, and fried fish, often as an alternative to bread. In some parts of northern Italy, polenta becomes a more involved dish thanks to the use of different grains and to the addition of cheeses, milk, butter. This recipe describes one of the most renowned polenta spin-offs: Polenta Taragna.

Polenta Taragna is typical of Valtellina as well as of the valleys of Bergamo and Brescia. Its most characteristic trait is its dark color, due to the use of buckwheat flour (mixed with cornmeal). Polenta Taragna can also be recognized from other polenta-based dishes for containing substantial amounts of butter and cheese, mixed in right before the dish is served. The cheeses used in this preparation vary from region to region, but they’re commonly semi-fat, medium-ripened cow-milk cheeses (e.g.: Valtellina Casera, Bitto, Branzi, or Fontina). Polenta Taragna is served as a main course, or to accompany cold cuts and Italian pickles.

Polenta Taragna

Yield: 2 servings (as a main)

Total Time: 1 hour, 10 minutes

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 1 hour

Polenta Taragna

Ingredients

  • 1 liter of water
  • 120 g buckwheat flour
  • 80 g cornmeal (fig. a)
  • 75 g unsalted butter, cubed (fig. b)
  • 250 g semi-fat cheese, cubed (e.g.: Fontina) (fig. c)
  • ½ teaspoon salt

Preparation

  1. Bring the water to a boil in the traditional copper cauldron or in a heavy-bottomed, stainless steel saucepan.
  2. Slowly add the flours, while stirring constantly, until a lump-free mixture is obtained (figs. 1, 2, 3).
  3. Cook at medium-low heat for 50-60 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent the mix from sticking to the pot.
  4. When the polenta is almost ready, add the butter and allow it to melt (fig. 4).
  5. Finally, turn off the heat and add the cheese (fig. 5).
  6. Keep stirring until the cheese has partially melted (fig. 6).
  7. Serve in earthenware or ceramic bowls, or on a cutting board if used as a side.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/01/polenta-taragna.html

Vin Brulé (Mulled Wine) – A Warming Festive Accompaniment

Most European countries have their variation of the British mulled wine, a drink made with red wine and spices, served hot during winter. Northern Italy’s version, popular around Christmas and especially at Christmas markets, is called Vin Brulé (from the French word brûlé, burnt).

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The practice of mulling wine goes back to medieval times, probably as a way to use up low quality or spoiled wines. Mulled wine has then remained popular as a comforting winter drink and as a remedy for colds and cases of flu. Its curative effects have then found confirmation in the anti-inflammatory properties of red wine and in the high content of antiseptics and antioxidants of cloves and cinnamon.

As far as the recipe goes, many variations can be found, although they all revolve around similar ingredients. The main difference between mulled wine and vin brulé is in the preparation. Vin brulé is usually boiled until no alcohol remains (a process sometimes accelerated by lighting a flame on the surface). Mulled wine instead is only warmed up for a short amount of time and at lower temperatures to preserve the alcoholic content of the wine. Occasionally, a shot of brandy or sherry is also added at the end for an extra bite.

Vin Brulé (Mulled Wine)

Yield: 6 cups

Total Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 20 minutes

Vin Brulé (Mulled Wine)

Ingredients

  • 1 liter of red wine (any full-bodied wine will do, choose an inexpensive bottle)
  • 200 g of sugar
  • 8 cloves
  • 2 cinnamon sticks
  • 1 orange (preferably with untreated rind)
  • 1 lemon (also preferably with untreated rind)

Preparation

  1. Peel the lemon and the orange making sure to discard all of the white part as it would bring an undesired bitterness.
  2. Put all the ingredients in a large stainless steel pan.
  3. Bring to a boil stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Ensure all of the sugar is perfectly dissolved.
  4. As soon as it boils, the alcohol vapors will start to form. By using a long toothpick, carefully light a flame on the surface.
  5. When the flame goes out, the vin brulé is ready. Filter it with a colander and serve hot.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/12/vin-brule-mulled-wine.html

The Boom of Limoncello

Limoncello (pronounced: lee-mon-chel-low) is a sweet, lemon-flavored liqueur made by soaking lemon peel in pure alcohol to extract its aromatic oils. Straight chilled limoncello is served after dinner as a digestive, or to accompany a dessert. When mixed with tonic water or sparkling white wine, limoncello can also make for a refreshing aperitif.

The origins of limoncello

Lemons made their first entrance into the Mediterranean region as early as 100 BCE. Around 1000 CE cultivated lemon trees were common in Italy, especially in the regions of Sicily, Calabria, Campania, Sardinia, and Liguria. Despite the availability of lemons and a proven Italian tradition in liqueur production, it took until the beginning of the 20th century for limoncello to be invented. The exact birthplace is unknown, with many of the areas renowned for its production claiming its paternity. These include:

  • The Sorrento peninsula and the island of Capri. The liqueur is officially called “Liquore di Limone Di Sorrento IGP” (though the name Limoncello is commonly used), made exclusively with Sorrento “IGP” lemons (Protected Geographical Indication).
  • The Amalfi Coast, e.g.: D’Amalfi Limoncello IGP Russo (also of Protected Geographical Indication).
  • Riviera delle Palme (western Liguria), though the liqueur generally goes under the name ‘limoncino’. ‘Arancino’ (a similar liquor made with oranges) and ‘Crema di Limoncino’ (a creamier version) are also produced.
  • Cinque Terre (eastern Liguria), and particularly Limoncino di Levanto, from the city of Levanto, part of the National Park of Cinque Terre.

The boom of limoncello

Thanks to its unique lemon flavor (intense, but not sour), and to its relatively low alcoholic content (around 30% in volume), limoncello became very popular in Italy and gradually spread to most of Europe. The highest peak of popularity was reached between 1990 and 2005 in Italy when limoncello became fashionable as the digestive of choice, a must at the end of every restaurant meal, and of every home dinner with guests. Many Italian restaurants started to offer it free of charge after coffee, even by leaving a bottle at each table for the guests to help themselves to. While generally appreciated by the diners, the trend eventually wore out and lately limoncello, although still popular, is back to being one of the many digestive liqueurs (which are rarely complimentary in restaurants).

Part of the success of limoncello is also due to its simple and reliable production process – many Italian families produce their own using a variation of the following recipe.

Homemade Limoncello

#Homemade Limoncello

Ingredients

  • 1 liter of pure alcohol (95% in volume)
  • 8 untreated (organic) lemons
  • ½ kg white sugar
  • 1 and ½ liters of drinking water.

Preparation

  1. Wash and peel the lemons.
  2. Gently scrub the lemons under running water, then carefully remove the yellow part of the peel (flavedo). The white part (albedo) has a bitter flavor and needs to be discarded. After peeling, the lemons can be squeezed and their juice frozen and later used to make drinks or in cooking.
  3. Soak the lemon peel in the alcohol
  4. Pour the alcohol in a glass jar that can be closed tightly. Add the the lemon peel and then keep in the dark for 25 days, at room temperature, shaking occasionally. The aromatic oils will gradually dissolve in the alcohol, which will turn yellow.
  5. After 25 days, prepare the syrup
  6. Prepare sugar syrup by bringing water and sugar to a boil, then let it cool off.
  7. Add the flavored alcohol to the syrup
  8. Filter the alcohol to remove the macerated peel and any undesired residue, then add it to the syrup.
  9. Pour the liqueur in a glass bottle
  10. Put the mix of syrup and flavored alcohol in a glass bottle.
  11. Store in the fridge or in the freezer
  12. As soon as chilled, the liqueur is ready for consumption, but it will keep for over 2 years in the fridge or even longer in the freezer (the high percentage of alcohol will prevent it from freezing).
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/10/boom-of-limoncello.html
Lemons of Levanto
Lemons of Levanto

Note. When choosing the lemons, it’s extremely important to go for the highest possible quality. The best lemons are medium-large, with an elliptical shape and a thick peel. The lemons must be untreated (we are going to only need the skin!) – any pesticides or even just waxing (commonly applied to help preserve the citrus’ moisture) would end up in the finished product.

Disclaimer. In certain areas of North America, pure alcohol can only be sold to professionals who have a special license! This is the case in many American states and in all of Canada except for the province of Alberta, where it’s sold under the brand name “Everclear”.

Pasta alla Norma – A Sicilian First Course with Character

Pasta alla Norma is a staple Italian first course almost unknown in North America. The dish, native to Sicily, is especially known in southern Italy but can be found all around the country.

Alla Norma sauce (likely named after the opera Norma, by Sicilian composer Vincenzo Bellini) can be recognized from other eggplant-based sauces for the use of fried eggplant and for a finish of ‘ricotta salata’ (salted ricotta), not replaceable with fresh ricotta.

Unlike fresh ricotta (a mildly flavored dairy product resulting from the coagulation of the proteins left in the whey after the production of cheese), ricotta salata contains sea-salt and is allowed to ripen for up to 30 days, while being pressed. At the end of this process, ricotta salata reaches a firm consistency and can be shaved or grated. When added to a pasta dish, it brings a savory touch, but also some creaminess, while remaining separate from the sauce (just like regular ricotta, ricotta salata doesn’t melt).

This recipe has been adapted from La Cucina Italiana (October 1986, page 18).

Pasta alla Norma

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 50 minutes

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Cook Time: 30 minutes

Pasta alla Norma

Ingredients

  • 150 g dried spaghetti
  • 350 g crushed or diced tomatoes
  • 1 small eggplant, sliced
  • 25 g ricotta salata, shaved
  • 1 clove garlic, peeled and thinly diced or mashed
  • 2 cups extra-virgin olive oil
  • salt & ground black pepper
  • a few basil leaves, sliced (optional)
  • lots of paper towel!

Preparation

  1. Lay the eggplant slices on absorbent paper, sprinkle them generously with salt (fig. 1-3).
  2. Let them rest for at least 15 minutes to draw out some moisture through osmosis (fig. 4).
  3. Wash each slice under running cold water to remove the excess salt, then vigorously squeeze the slices to eliminate even more water (which has a hint of bitterness) and to collapse some of the air pockets that constitute the eggplant's spongy structure (so that less oil will be absorbed when deep fried).
  4. Dry the eggplant slices with paper towel, then dice them into uniform cubes (fig. 5).
  5. In a tall pot, pre-heat the olive oil to 150 °C; deep fry the eggplant dices (fig. 6) for about 5 minutes until golden, then drain and lay them on paper towel (fig. 7); pat them with more paper towel to soak up any excess oil.
  6. In a large non-stick pan, fry the garlic in 1 tablespoon of olive oil (fig. 8), then add the tomatoes (fig. 9) and the fried eggplant (fig. 10). Simmer for about 15 minutes, adjusting the salt.
  7. Meanwhile, boil the pasta in plenty of salted water then drain it briefly and toss it in the pan with the sauce.
  8. Serve with a generous sprinkle of shaved ricotta salata, the (optional) basil, and some black pepper.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/10/pasta-alla-norma.html

Bell Pepper Pasta

Italians rarely get tired of a good tomato sauce, but when they do they often resort to a tomato sauce variation. This recipe is based on the simple addition of roasted bell peppers, and of chili for some heat. The resulting sauce is great on pasta, but it also doubles as a tasty dip for toasted bread. The peppers are sliced, roasted in olive oil and then added to a tomato base. If the skins are unwanted or if a smoother texture is desired, the cooked peppers can be strained in a food mill.

Bell Pepper Pasta

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 40 minutes

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 35 minutes

Bell Pepper Pasta

Ingredients

  • 1 cup tomato sauce
  • 2 small bell peppers, red or yellow (seeded and sliced)
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • half of a fresh chili (minced) or 1 teaspoon of chili flakes
  • 140 g dried pasta (e.g.: farfalle, fusilli, rigatoni)
  • a sprinkle of Parmigiano (freshly grated, optional)
  • salt

Preparation

  1. In a non-stick pan, roast the pepper in olive oil along with the fresh chili (if using it) for 5 minutes at high.
  2. Lower the heat, add the chili flakes (if using them) and cook for 15 minutes covered, adjust the salt.
  3. Strain the peppers in a food mill.
  4. Collect the pulp and discard the skins.
  5. Put the pepper purée back in the non-stick pan and add the tomato sauce.
  6. Cook for another 5 minutes to blend the flavors.
  7. Meanwhile, boil the pasta in salty water for the time indicated on the box.
  8. When the pasta is ready, drain it and serve it with the sauce and a sprinkle of grated Parmigiano (optional).
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/08/bell-pepper-pasta.html

Pesto, Potatoes and Green Beans Pasta

This recipe describes a common variation of the classic pesto pasta. In Liguria, pesto pasta is often had along with potatoes and green beans, a hearty version sometimes called ‘enriched’ pesto.

Please see the Making Pesto in a Blender article for tips on how to make the pesto base simply and quickly.

Pesto, Potatoes and Green Beans Pasta

Yield: 4 servings

Total Time: 30 minutes

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Pesto, Potatoes and Green Beans Pasta

Ingredients

  • 1 russet potato (about 250 g in weight)
  • 150 g of green beans
  • 250 g of pasta (trofie is the most traditional, linguine or spaghetti are also common).

Preparation

  1. Dice the potato and cut the green beans in bite-size chunks (fig. 4).
  2. Drop the green beans in a large pot of salted boiling water, cook for 10 minutes (fig. 5a).
  3. Dried pasta generally takes the same cooking time as the diced potatoes (about 10 minutes). If using dried pasta, add it along with the potato (fig. 5b) and cook for the time indicated on the box. If using fresh pasta, start by adding the potatoes, boil for 7-8 minutes, then add the pasta and cook for another 2 or 3.
  4. Put a good tablespoon of pesto in each plate and dilute it with some of the pasta cooking water (fig. 5c).
  5. When the pasta and vegetables is ready, quickly drain it, pour it on top of the pesto (fig. 5d) and stir gently. Serve immediately.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/08/pesto-potatoes-and-green-beans-pasta.html

 

Panino, the Italian Sandwich

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In Italy, just like in all Europe and North America, a ‘panino’ (Italian for sandwich) is a popular lunch option, and in some cases also a quick dinner alternative. Italian bars often press-grill their sandwiches to enhance the flavors, turn the bread more fragrant and crunchy, and melt any cheese. However, at home, or when bakery-fresh bread is available, the Italians enjoy non-grilled sandwiches just the same.

This article describes both styles of Italian sandwich: the world-famous grilled sandwich (known as Panini) and the less known un-grilled version.

Going back to the word “panini”, in Italian it refers to all sandwiches – and it’s plural. «One sandwich» translates as ‘un panino’ (from ‘pane’, bread). «Two sandwiches» translates as ‘due panini’ and shouldn’t be re-pluralized as Paninis – it causes native Italians to cringe!

A “Panini” press

Grilled panini are prepared in a “Panini” press (called ‘piastra’, literally: plate). In Italy, they generally feature established combinations of fillings, though these combinations don’t have universally assigned names. Common types of bread used are: ciabatta, francesino (a small French-style roll), and in some cases focaccia. Classic fillings combinations are:

  • mozzarella, tomato (plus arugula and/or prosciutto cotto or crudo);
  • prosciutto cotto or crudo, fontina, salsa rosa (“pink sauce”, made of mayonnaise, ketchup and whiskey);
  • prosciutto cotto or crudo, brie (plus lettuce and/or tomato);
  • prosciutto cotto, brie, olive tapenade;
  • prosciutto crudo or bresaola, goat cheese or stracchino (plus lettuce and/or tomato);
  • speck (smoked cured prosciutto from Tyrol), brie, salsa rosa;
  • speck, goat cheese, arugula;
  • grilled vegetables and cheese (see below for a recipe).

When Italian panini are offered outside of Italy, they tend to differ quite substantially. The biggest no-no’s are the use of:

  • More than one kind of meat (although it may happen in some cases, this is very unlikely in Italy);
  • Large amounts of meat (in Italy, more than a few slices would be considered overpowering);
  • Too many ingredients (in Italy, it’s never more than 3 or 4 in total);
  • Any kind of dressing (oil and vinegar are for salads, not for sandwiches!);
  • Honey-mustard, barbecue sauce, spicy mayo (since they don’t exist in Italy).

For un-grilled Italian sandwiches, bread rolls that are light and crunchy are generally used (for instance the michetta, known in some parts of Italy as ‘rosetta’ or ‘tartaruga’). As far as fillings go, they generally include one feature ingredient, for instance:

  • prosciutto ‘crudo’ (raw, cured pork);
  • prosciutto ‘cotto’ (Italian ham);
  • coppa, also known as capicollo (also cured pork);
  • salame (cured sausage);
  • Italian bologna (not to be confused with Baloney!) and other kinds of mortadella;
  • pancetta (Italian bacon);
  • bresaola (cured beef);
  • porchetta.

Sometimes, fresh greens and/or cheese may be added to complement the flavor. For instance, prosciutto crudo may be had with ‘stracchino‘ and arugula; prosciutto cotto with fontina. Other classic options include cold frittata (e.g.: with herbs or roasted zucchini), or cold breaded veal cutlet.

~~~~~

Now, onto the recipe for the grilled panino in the picture above – a slight variation on the grilled vegetables and cheese theme, thanks to the addition of spicy roasted onions.

Ingredients for 2 panini
– One small onion (sliced)
– 2 bell peppers, red or yellow (seeded and each cut in 4 wedges)
– 2 zucchini (sliced)
– 100 g provolone, scamorza or fontina (sliced)
– one handful of fresh arugula (washed and dried)
– 1 tablespoon of olive oil
– salt and cayenne pepper

Preparation
– In a non-stick pan, roast the onion in olive oil at medium heat for 5 minutes, then lower the temperature and cook for an additional 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and cayenne pepper.
– Using a sandwich press, grill the bell peppers (lightly sprinkled with salt) for 20-30 minutes at medium heat.
– When the peppers are ready, put them aside and peel off the skin (it should come off easily – if it doesn’t, let the peppers rest for 10 minutes in a sealed zip-lock while they are still warm).
– Grill the zucchini (also sprinkled with salt) for 10-15 minutes at medium heat.
– When the zucchini are ready, put them aside and roughly wipe the grill clean, while keeping it turned on.
– Assemble the sandwich by layering the cheese, the grilled vegetables, and the roasted onions.
– Warm up the sandwiches in the press until the cheese melts. Then add the fresh arugula and serve.

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Asparagi alla Milanese – The Incredible Pairing of Asparagus and Eggs

Of simple Italian recipes that are almost unknown outside of Italy, Milanese-style Asparagus would probably rank near the top. This dish, traditionally associated with the city of Milan, is enjoyed all around Italy as a second course, especially in late spring, when asparagus is in season.

Before getting to the recipe, let’s spend a few words on its main ingredient. Asparagus is one of the shoots of a perennial plant called Asparagus officinalis, harvested when it reaches a length of about 8 inches and hasn’t yet developed any branches. If allowed to grow, the shoots become inedible – they gradually thin out, harden, and develop fern-like branches, up to 1.5 meters tall. Indigenous of Eurasia, Asparagus officinalis was already known in ancient Egypt, when it was eaten raw. The Greeks and the Romans are credited for learning how to cultivate it and for discovering its diuretic properties.

In North America, asparagus is mostly used as an appetizer or as a side dish (steamed, fried, or char roasted), as well as in soups and quiches. In Italy, it is also used to make one kind of risotto, in ‘frittate’, as filling for ravioli or just paired up with melted butter, eggs, and Parmigiano as in this recipe.

Asparagi alla Milanese

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 15 minutes

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 10 minutes

Asparagi alla Milanese

Ingredients

  • 1 kg of fresh asparagus, washed and with their bases trimmed
  • 4 tablespoons of Parmigiano, freshly grated
  • 2 tablespoons of butter
  • 4 eggs
  • salt

Preparation

  1. Place the asparagus in a pot of salted boiling water, the spears above the waterline to be cooked by the steam. Cook for 10 minutes (15 if the stems are particularly thick). If using a large pot, the asparagus can be tied up to force them to remain vertical.
  2. Just before the asparagus are cooked, fry the eggs in butter, sunny-side-up, in a large non stick pan. Ensure the whites are fully firm, while the yolks are still runny.
  3. Gently drain the asparagus and assemble the dish in warm serving plates by layering the eggs, the asparagus (tips towards the center), and the grated Parmigiano.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/08/asparagi-alla-milanese.html

 

Bruschetta, Properly Pronounced :)

Bruschetta , plural ‘bruschette’ (brus-ket-teh), is a very popular appetizer born in the 16th century in central and southern Italy, which then spread to the entire country and eventually followed the Italian emigrants around the world.

Classic bruschetta can be made in several ways, but it’s always based on a salad of fresh diced tomatoes on a toasted slice of rustic bread. The name bruschetta, in fact, derives from ‘bruscare’, Roman dialect for the verb to toast. Traditionally, a hint of garlic is added by rubbing a peeled garlic clove onto the char-roasted bread. However, it can also be added in small amounts directly to the tomato salad.

Bruschetta can also be made with other toppings (e.g.: cooked beans, stewed mushrooms or bell peppers, tuna salad). In Italy, however, these are substantially less common than the classic tomato topping. Unless otherwise specified, the term ‘bruschetta’ refers to the tomato version and always to the whole preparation (bread plus topping), never to just the topping. So, no bruschetta burger, please!

For the best results, the bread has to remain crunchy. To this effect, the topping should be not too soggy and it should be put on the bread only a few minutes before serving. Some restaurants even have do-it-yourself bruschette, where a tomato salad is served in a bowl along with toasted bread.

This recipe describes a variation of the classic where a few extra ingredients are added.

Bruschetta

Yield: 2-4 servings (as an appetizer)

Total Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 25 minutes

Bruschetta

Ingredients

  • 4 Roma tomatoes
  • (optional) ½ shallot
  • 1 ½ cloves of garlic
  • 3-4 leaves fresh basil
  • 1 T olive oil
  • ½ T balsamic vinegar
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 4 slices of artisan bread
  • (optional) some ground black pepper

Preparation

  1. Gather the ingredients. Wash and prepare the tomatoes for peeling by removing the bottom and by cutting a cross on the top. Slice and toast the bread.
  2. Blanch the fridge-cold tomatoes by dipping them in boiling water for 30 seconds, and then cooling them off quickly in cold water. The skin will come off easily.
  3. Remove the seeds and the cores, then dice the tomatoes.
  4. If using shallot, cut it into small dices.
  5. Cut the garlic into small dices. Slice the basil leaves by first rolling them up.
  6. Dress the bruschetta topping with balsamic vinegar, salt and olive oil.
  7. Place a generous amount of tomato salad on each bread slice. If desired, sprinkle with ground black pepper. This appetizers goes well with a full-bodied white wine, such as Malvasia Bianca, Soave, or Vernaccia.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/06/bruschetta.html