Tag: Italian

Italian Myths – 6 Italian Food Staples Unknown in Italy

This article is about “Italian” dishes, products, and terms that don’t actually exist in Italy – true Italian myths like Spaghetti with Meatballs (an Italian-American creation), Caesar salad and Italian soda (successful inventions of Italian immigrants), Fettuccini Alfredo, Italian Wedding Soup and “Al fresco” dining (specific Italian items mistaken as traditional).

Check out the latest episode of Thoughts on the Table, the podcast on food and food culture. Also available on iTunes and Google Play Music.

Despite their Italian roots, these products don’t represent today’s Italian dining and, in that regard, they can’t be considered authentic. However, they are historically important and offer interesting clues on the North American interpretation of Italian food.

1. Spaghetti with (big) meatballs

Probably the biggest Italian myth, widely featured in many Italian restaurants in North America, spaghetti with (big) meatballs are practically absent in Italy. Meatballs on their own, instead, with their many variations, are found almost everywhere in the country under the name ‘polpette’ (from ‘polpa’, pulp).

How did meatballs end up on spaghetti, then? A similar dish with small meatballs on noodles still exists in parts of southern Italy. As a possible explanation, with their arrival in the big American cities, Italian immigrants found a wider availability of meat and quickly switched away from their vegetable-centered diet. Their deeply rooted craving for pasta, however, didn’t abandon them. As the Italians were being assimilated into the American culture, they also started to favor a large single course (as opposed to multiple smaller courses) and more intense use of spices (especially garlic and oregano). This resulted in the combination of spaghetti and meatballs in a rich tomato sauce, which turned into the iconic dish known in North America.

2. Fettuccini Alfredo

Another big Italian myth is Alfredo sauce, along with its most famous use in Fettuccini Alfredo. The name “Alfredo sauce” is almost completely absent in Italy, although there are plenty of pasta sauces that are similarly based on the combination of butter and Parmigiano. For instance, egg noodles, gnocchi, and meatless ravioli (e.g.: with mushrooms, truffles, or ricotta and spinach) are often served with melted butter (sometimes infused with fresh sage) and grated Parmigiano. This type of finish simply goes under the name of “al burro”, with butter. In Rome, egg noodles with butter and Parmigiano are often called “alla Romana”, Roman-style.

Why is this sauce so famously called “Alfredo” in North America, then? The history behind it is well known, though parts of it are mixed with legend. In 1914, Alfredo di Lelio, a Roman restaurateur who was popular among American tourists, named his butter and cheese linguine after himself. According to the legend, the dish caught the attention of early Hollywood actors Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks, who were in Rome for their honeymoon. When they returned to the US, the actors introduced the dish to their Hollywood friends, making it famous. In 1943 Alfredo di Lelio sold his restaurant, but the new owner kept the menu and is still in business under the name “Alfredo alla Scrofa“. In 1950, Alfredo di Lelio and his son opened a new restaurant in a different location and called it “Il vero Alfredo“, the real Alfredo, which is now managed by Alfredo’s nephews. Both restaurants are popular with North American tourists that want to taste the original Alfredo recipe. Besides these two restaurants, in Italy, “Alfredo” is just a first-name (Alfred).

3. Italian soda and Italian cream soda

As one can easily imagine, there is nothing called “Italian soda” in Italy. And there is also nothing that tastes like it. Italy only has a handful of traditional sodas, the main ones are ‘aranciata’ (orange-based), ‘gassosa’ (clear, intensely sparkling and with a sweet lemon flavor), ‘cedrata’ (from the citron fruit), and ‘chinotto’ (based on the uniquely flavored chinotto citrus). North American “Italian sodas”, instead, come in a wide variety of flavors (e.g.: cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, grape, peach, strawberry), all of which tend to be sweeter and more intense than their Italian counterparts.

How did Italian sodas happen, then? Probably from the Sicilian tradition of making refreshing drinks by pouring small amounts of concentrated syrups in iced still or sparkling water, or on shaved ice (which is what the Italians call a ‘granita’). The most popular flavors are lemon, mint, tamarind, ‘orzata’ (almond flavored), and ‘amarena’ (from sour black cherries). It appears that the Torani Company, a famous syrup maker from Italy, introduced Italian sodas in 1925, in San Francisco, by adding their syrups to soda water. The drink that resulted was well received by the American palate, and more flavors were then added.

If Italian soda is not really Italian, then “Italian cream soda” is even less so! Industrially made cream soda is usually flavored with vanilla, a pastry-like aroma that would be strange to Italians in a drink. In some North American bars and cafes, cream soda is made by adding cream to carbonated water, which sounds even stranger if not utterly disgusting to any Italian.

4. Caesar salad

With absolutely nothing to do with the well known Roman emperor, numerous sources trace the creation of Caesar dressing back to the 1920s and attribute it to Cesare Cardini, an Italian immigrant who owned restaurants in California and in Mexico. According to the legend, chef Cardini came up with his famous dressing by combining leftovers that he found in his kitchen: romaine lettuce, olive oil, garlic, raw egg, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce (which is lightly flavored with anchovies), and Parmesan. The dressing quickly became popular with visiting Hollywood’s celebrities and Cardini expanded his business into large-scale production. In 1948 Cardini trademarked his recipe, but he couldn’t patent the “Caesar Salad” name because it was already entrenched in popular culture. When he died, his daughter Rosa took on the business and worked on expanding the Cardini brand, which she then sold to a third party.

Despite the fact that the flavors in Caesar salad meet the Italian palate, this dish is unknown in Italy except for a few restaurants that cater to a North American clientele.

5. Italian wedding soup

Italian wedding soup is a completely misrepresented dish, not as much for the “Italian” adjective, but for the “wedding” one. There is no wedding soup in Italy – soups are generally humble dishes that lack any festive connotations. The name, in fact, likely comes from a mistranslation of ‘minestra maritata’, married soup, in which vegetables (escarole, cabbage, endive) and meat (sausage or meatballs) symbolically marry in one single dish.

6. “Al fresco” dining

Although the Italian words “al fresco” are a common way to say in the freshness of the outdoors, the association between “al fresco” and outdoor dining is not particularly strong in Italy. In the hot Italian summers, dining outdoors is a treat for many. As a result, restaurants often feature patios and gardens or obtain authorization to set up tables on the sidewalks. Despite this, the phrase “mangiare all’aperto”, eating outside, is far more common than “mangiare al fresco”, possibly because “al fresco” also carries the negative connotation of meaning in jail.

References and further readings:

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Egg Pasta with Green Beans and Mushrooms

The combination of green beans and mushrooms makes for a vegetarian recipe with amazing depth of flavor. The earthiness of the mushrooms perfectly marries with the green beans, which also add texture to the dish. But the secret star of the show is the wine – its complex aroma is essential to bring all the flavors together.

This all-season sauce can be prepared relatively quickly, almost while the pasta cooks, and makes for a satisfying dish that is also beautiful to serve.

Egg Pasta with Green Beans and Mushrooms

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Egg Pasta with Green Beans and Mushrooms

Ingredients

  • 125 g (4 ½ oz) fresh or dried egg pasta (e.g.: pappardelle, tagliatelle, fettuccine)
  • 100 g (3 ½ oz) green beans
  • 150 g (5 ½ oz) mushrooms (e.g.: fresh porcini, oyster, crimini), sliced
  • 1 clove of garlic, finely minced
  • ½ of a small onion, sliced
  • 2 Tbsp olive oil
  • 1 cup vegetable stock, warmed up
  • 1 cup half and half (10% fat cream)
  • ½ glass dry white wine
  • 2 Tbsp Parmigiano Reggiano, shaved
  • Salt and pepper

Preparation

  1. Shave the green beans using a sharp potato peeler. This preparation is essential for the recipe as it tenderizes the green beans, while preserving their crunchiness.
  2. In a frying pan, sauté the green beans in olive oil for a couple of minutes at high temperature (1-2).
  3. Add the vegetable stock and let the green beans stew for 10 minutes at medium heat (3).
  4. Meanwhile, in a second frying pan, sauté onions and garlic in olive oil for a couple of minutes at high (4).
  5. Add the mushrooms and cook for 5 minutes at medium heat until tender.
  6. Add the white wine and let it evaporate completely (5).
  7. Add the cream and let it reduce for 5 minutes at low temperature (6).
  8. Merge everything into a single pan, mix and simmer for a few more minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
  9. Boil the egg pasta in plenty of salty water (see Cooking Pasta 101 for all the ins and outs), then drain it briefly and add it to the sauce mixing well for about 1 minute. Serve with some shaved Parmigiano.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/02/egg-pasta-with-green-beans-and.html

Canederli, the Italian Knödel

Canederli are bread dumplings only found in the north-east of Italy (Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli, and part of Veneto), where they are served as a first course or as a main entree. Variations of this dish are common in all south-eastern Europe, where they are also served as an accompaniment to meat stews and roasts. The word ‘canederlo’, in fact, derives from the German and Austrian ‘knödel’ (dumpling).

Canederli can be considered part of ‘cucina povera’ (cuisine of the poor), as they are made of simple and inexpensive ingredients: stale bread moistened with milk and bound with eggs and a small amount of flour. However, the mixture is often enriched with cheese and Speck (a kind of smoked prosciutto also local to the north-east regions of Italy).

There are several variations of this regional dish, the following recipe describes one of the most common: filled with cheese. Once the dumplings are prepared and boiled, they are either served “dry” with melted butter or in broth.

Check out the latest episode of Thoughts on the Table, the podcast on food and food culture. Also available on iTunes and Google Play Music.

Canederli, the Italian Knödel

Yield: 4-5 servings

Total Time: 2 hours, 20 minutes

Prep Time: 2 hours

Cook Time: 20 minutes

#Canederli, the Italian Knödel

Ingredients

     For the dumplings

    • 300 g (10 oz) stale bread, diced (which can be obtained by dicing 450 g of fresh bread and laying it on a perforated tray for 24-48 hours, covered with a tea towel) - it's important that the bread is fully dried out and crunchy
    • 225 ml (1 scant cup) milk
    • 3 eggs, lightly beaten
    • 60 g (½ cup) white flour
    • 3 Tbsp (minced) flat leaf (Italian) parsley
    • 200 g (7 oz) cheese, e.g.: Fontina, Raclette (smoked or plain), or Gouda (smoked or plain), diced
    • 45 g (3 Tbsp) unsalted butter
    • 1 ½ Tbsp olive oil
    • 1 onion, finely chopped
    • ½ tsp salt
    • ¼ tsp pepper
    • ¼ tsp nutmeg
    • 3 liters (12 cups) of vegetable stock (for boiling)

     To serve them "dry"

    • 20 g (1 ½ Tbsp) (per serving) unsalted butter
    • 10 g (2 tsp) (per serving) grated Parmigiano
    • 1 small bunch of chives, thinly sliced

     To serve them in broth

    • 1 cup (per serving) additional vegetable stock
    • Some grated Parmigiano
    • Some chives, thinly sliced (optional)

    Preparation

    1. Put the stale bread into a large mixing bowl (1). Add the milk (2), the eggs (3), as well as salt, pepper and nutmeg.
    2. Mix well and let it rest for at least two hours, covered with a tea towel, in a cool place or in the fridge. Stir occasionally to ensure that the mix absorbs the liquid uniformly.
    3. After the two hours, add the flour (4), then the parsley (5), and the cheese (6). Mix gently.
    4. Finely chop the onion (7) and fry it in oil and butter for ten minutes at medium heat, stirring occasionally.
    5. Let the onion cool (8), then incorporate it into the mix (9).
    6. Let the mixture rest for another half-hour covered with a tea towel. It should look uniformly moist and slightly sticky.
    7. Using your hands, form the canederli by pressing together enough of the mix to make balls the size of a small orange (60 to 80 grams each). You should be able produce 14-16 balls out of the entire mix.
    8. After making each ball, roll it in flour to seal the outside and prevent the canederli from sticking to each other (10).
    9. When all the canederli are ready, re-roll them into flour and compress them a second time (11).
    10. Have the vegetable stock in a large pot, well boiling on the stove.
    11. Place the canederli gently in the pot (12-13), wait until the boil is resumed (14).
    12. Boil the canederli for 12-15 minutes (they will be floating the whole time), then drain them gently.
    13. If serving the canederli "dry", warm up the butter just enough to melt it. Place 3 canederli into each plate, pour the melted butter on them, then sprinkle with some thin-sliced chives, a generous amount of grated Parmigiano, and some freshly ground black pepper.

    Notes

    Note: once boiled, the canederli can be stored in the fridge for up to 3 days, or in the freezer for up to 2 weeks.

    If serving the canederli in broth, prepare more vegetable stock (as the one used for boiling will be cloudy because of the flour). Place one or two canederli into each bowl, then pour the broth on them. Finish with some grated Parmigiano and (optional) chives.

    https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/01/canederli-italian-knodel.html

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    Pasta Calendar Quiz – The Results!

    Thanks to all who played the Pasta Calendar Quiz. If you’re like me and like numbers, you may enjoy this quick update. Spoiler warning! This post will give the correct answers.

    Surprisingly only 43% of the people who played answered correctly to all questions. Another 25% did quite well, though, with just 1 error, 21% made 2 mistakes, 9% made 3, and 2% made 4. Nobody got them all wrong.

    The question that people had the most problems with was: What is the “companatico?” This might have been a little tricky also for the Italians because ‘companatico’ is an archaic word rarely used these days. ‘Companatico’ comes from Late Latin “companaticum” which means “together with bread.” For instance, cheese is companatico. 68% answered correctly, whereas 30% answered: “A side dish that accompanies the main course,” probably mixing up with ‘contorno.’ One person said: “A typical Christmas cake,” probably confusing it with Panettone.

    The other question that was a bit challenging was: If you ask for a “latte” in an Italian bar, what do you get? – a clear trap for the non-Italians :). ‘Latte’ means milk, so, in Italy, if you ask for a ‘latte,’ you get a glass of cold milk (you would need to ask for ‘latte caldo’ to get your milk warmed up.) 79% answered correctly, 17% instead chose: “Steamed milk with a shot of espresso,” which is what you would get outside of Italy, probably short for ‘caffé latte’ – milk with coffe. A small 4% answered: “A strange look from the bartender, pubs don’t sell coffee!”, probably tricked by the word ‘bar,’ which in Italy is associated with a licensed coffee bar, whereas in North America it more often refers to a ‘Martini bar’ or ‘pub.’

    83% answered correctly to the question: In Italy, what does the word “panini” refer to?, which is “Two or more sandwiches of any kind,” hinting to the fact that ‘panini’ is plural of panino, and panino is just the Italian word for sandwich. 17% answered: “A grilled sandwich filled with plenty of Italian cold cuts and cheeses,” which is incorrect on two counts: ‘panini’ (plural) would be more than one sandwich, and authentic Italian sandwiches generally are not filled with plenty of different cold cuts and cheeses. Nobody answered: “A toasted sandwich with ham, cheese, and pickles,” which would be what the Italians call a ‘toast.’

    People did really well with the chemistry-inspired question on when to double the amount of salt when boiling pasta. What matters is the concentration of salt in the water, so salt is proportional to the amount of water (usually, ½ tablespoon per liter). 83% answered correctly, 11% thought that the amount of salt should be proportional to the amount of pasta, and 6% were completely confused and answered that the amount of salt should be doubled when cooking the pasta “al dente.” Al dente means not overcooked, which has little to do with the amount of salt in the water.

    The question on: What is the “aperitivo?” was also very easy for most. 85% gave the correct answer: “A drink to be had before the meal, usually accompanied by a snack,” whereas the rest was equally split between: “The Italian equivalent of the ‘starter’ course,” which would be the antipasto, and: “A drink to be had after the coffee,” which would be the ‘digestivo.’

    Amaretti and Amaretto

    Check out the latest episode of Thoughts on the Table, the podcast on food and food culture. Also available on iTunes and Google Play Music.

    Amaretti cookies and Amaretto liqueur are both well known in Italy and have been gaining popularity worldwide. The word ‘amaretto’ comes from the Italian ‘amaro’ (bitter) in reference to the sharp flavor of bitter almonds or apricot kernels. Despite the name, both products are predominantly sweet, and their bitterness only enhances the depth of flavor. Amaretti cookies are a treat to eat on their own, or they are used as an ingredient in desserts and even in some savory dishes. The Amaretto liqueur is a classic accompaniment to coffee at the end of a meal or used in cocktails, long drinks, and to flavor hot chocolate. This article considers both the cookie and the liqueur, starting from their key ingredients: bitter almonds or their close relatives, apricot kernels.

    Bitter almonds differ from sweet almonds far more than in bitterness. Sweet almonds were born as a natural mutation of bitter almonds lacking amygdalin, a compound that is found in the kernels of many stone-fruits (apricots and peaches included). When such kernels are crushed, the amygdalin breaks down into glucose, the aromatic benzaldehyde (which is responsible for the sharp almond flavor), and the highly toxic hydrogen cyanide (HCN). Each bitter almond may contain an average of 6 mg of HCN, which, incidentally, is far more than the amount of HCN found in the smoke of one cigarette (0.01 to 0.4 mg) and which can seriously harm an adult.

    Benzaldehyde

    When amygdalin is not present, however, benzaldehyde is also missing – sweet almonds lack a lot of the flavor of their bitter counterparts and are impractical for use in the pastry and confectionery industry. In North America, bitter almonds are strongly regulated due to the cyanide content and are not commercially available; almond flavoring (extracted from a variety of other sources) is used instead. In Europe, moderate amounts of bitter almonds as well as apricot kernels (called ‘armelline’ in Italian), are used despite their toxicity after blanching, which reduces the HCN, making them safe (in small amounts) even as an uncooked paste, e.g. to flavor marzipan.

    Almonds are native to western Asia and the Middle East and adapted well to the Mediterranean climate, where they still grow naturally. Sweet almonds, possibly identified by the early farmers, have been cultivated since the early Bronze Age (3000-2000 BCE). Nowadays, according to the FAO, California is the largest producer (1.4 million tons in 2010), with Italy coming in 6th (85.500 tons), after Spain, Iran, Morocco, and Syria.

    Almonds with shell, shelled almonds, and blanched almonds

    The best example of the use of apricot kernels is in the almond macaroons known as amaretti, of which they constitute 10-20% in weight. The earliest written recipes for amaretti (as early as 1725) describe them as crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, and made with egg whites, sugar, sweet and bitter almonds, and no flour. Nowadays, different kinds of amaretti exist – some that follow similar recipes, and some that also contain flour (wheat, rice, corn, or potato) for added body. Texture-wise, amaretti range from soft and mildly chewy to light and crunchy.

    Ricciarelli

    Amaretti vary substantially throughout the Italian territory. In Sicily, Pasta di Mandorle (almond paste) is very popular and used in many kinds of pastries. In Sardinia, well known are Sospiri, made with sweet almonds and lemon rind. In Lazio, the Amaretti of Fiuggi and of Guarcino are made of sweet and bitter almonds, egg whites, and sugar on a disc of wafer paper. Also from Lazio, the Paste Reali are a typical Christmas cookie made with sweet almonds, sugar, and baking powder. From Tuscany, soft and sugar-coated Ricciarelli are popular in all of northern Italy. In Liguria, renowned are the soft almond cookies from Sassello (on the Apennines, at the border with Piedmont), made with sweet almonds and apricot kernels. In Emilia-Romagna, well known is the Amaretto di Modena, crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, made with sweet and bitter almonds. In Piedmont, the crunchy Amaretti di Mombaruzzo are made with sugar, egg whites, sweet almonds, and apricot kernels. In Lombardy, the soft and irregularly shaped Amaretti di Gallarate are also made with sweet almonds and apricot kernels. Also from Lombardy is the famous Amaretto di Saronno (from the homonymous town). Particularly well known is the version commercialized by D. Lazzaroni & C. called Amaretti Originali and made exclusively of sugar, apricot kernels (19%), and egg white.

    Amaretti del Chiostro Autentici

    Recently, a different but related company: Paolo Lazzaroni & Figli (PLF) also entered the amaretti market with Amaretti del Chiostro Autentici. PLF was founded by Paolo Lazzaroni in 1851; in 1888, his brother, Davide Lazzaroni, started “D. Lazzaroni & C.” (better known as Lazzaroni). PLF historically focused on liqueurs (especially Amaretto, see below), whereas Lazzaroni mainly produced cookies (especially amaretti), both following the original recipe that belonged to the Lazzaroni family well before both companies were founded (since 1718, according to a legend). Despite the attempt of Lazzaroni to patent their amaretti recipe, PLF was authorized to market their cookies under a different name. Amaretti del Chiostro are advertised as made of apricot kernels, sugar, and egg white.

    Amaretti di Saronno are used as an ingredient in several preparations, either whole, crushed, or crumbled. Among the many desserts, particularly famous is the Piedmontese Bônet, a chocolate pudding with crumbled amaretti and rum. Also well known are Pesche Ripiene (stuffed peaches), baked half peaches filled with crushed amaretti, egg yolks, sugar, and dark chocolate. Amaretti are also featured in important savory dishes, such as Tortelli di Zucca (Lombardy), Gnocchi di Zucca e Amaretti (pumpkin and amaretti gnocchi), and Fritto Misto alla Piemontese (Piedmontese mixed fry), which consists of fried entrails and fried Amaretti di Mombaruzzo (softened in milk and breaded).

    Disaronno Originale

    Just like the amaretti cookies, the Amaretto liqueur is also made with bitter almonds or with apricot kernels, this time in the form of an infusion. Since alcohol is particularly effective in extracting the benzaldehyde, there is no hydrogen cyanide in the liqueur, and even no traces of nuts in it, making it safe for those who have allergies. Amaretto has nothing to do with ‘amaro‘, a distinctly bitter herbal liqueur usually had as a digestive.

    Being an infusion, the Amaretto liqueur can be easily made at home. Just like for Limoncello, many Italian families make their own by soaking minced bitter almonds (and/or apricot kernels) in pure alcohol (although brandy can also be used).

    The historical origin of Amaretto is unknown, but the legend goes that it was invented in Saronno in 1525. According to the tale, a young innkeeper created a concoction of almond and brandy as a gift for the painter Bernardino Luini out of gratitude for choosing her as a model for the painting dedicated to the Virgin Mary, in the city’s sanctuary. The story is also endorsed by ILLVA Saronno S.p.A., the firm that makes the world-famous “Disaronno Originale” (28% vol.), an “Italian liqueur flavored with herbs and fruits soaked in apricot kernel oil”. The company’s name is the acronym of “Industria Lombarda Liquori Vini e Affini”, literally: Lombard Factory of Liquors, Wines, and Similar goods.

    Less known outside of Italy, Disaronno’s main competitor is the “Lazzaroni Amaretto” (24% vol.) by Paolo Lazzaroni & Figli (PLF), which started being produced in 1851. PLF’s Amaretto owes its “delicate almond/apricot flavor” to an infusion of crushed amaretti cookies, which were made according to the Lazzaroni family’s recipe.

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    Polenta Taragna – An Enriched Polenta from the Italian Mountains

    In previous posts, we talked about Cucina Povera, the cuisine of the poor, now becoming “fashionable” in high-end restaurants. This is the case also for polenta – one of the simplest dishes ever conceived.

    Do you blog about authentic Italian food? You may qualify for the coveted Cannolo Award! Check out the details.

    Now traditionally made with cornmeal, different types of polenta have been feeding the masses since Roman times, well before the discovery of the Americas and the subsequent introduction of corn into Europe. Earlier polentas were made with millet, rye, spelt, barley, chickpeas, chestnuts or wheat flours.

    Polenta cooker at a town fair
    Polenta cooker at a town fair

    In Italy, polenta is a relatively common accompaniment to stews, braised dishes, and fried fish, often as an alternative to bread. In some parts of northern Italy, polenta becomes a more involved dish thanks to the use of different grains and to the addition of cheeses, milk, butter. This recipe describes one of the most renowned polenta spin-offs: Polenta Taragna.

    Polenta Taragna is typical of Valtellina as well as of the valleys of Bergamo and Brescia. Its most characteristic trait is its dark color, due to the use of buckwheat flour (mixed with cornmeal). Polenta Taragna can also be recognized from other polenta-based dishes for containing substantial amounts of butter and cheese, mixed in right before the dish is served. The cheeses used in this preparation vary from region to region, but they’re commonly semi-fat, medium-ripened cow-milk cheeses (e.g.: Valtellina Casera, Bitto, Branzi, or Fontina). Polenta Taragna is served as a main course, or to accompany cold cuts and Italian pickles.

    Polenta Taragna

    Yield: 2 servings (as a main)

    Total Time: 1 hour, 10 minutes

    Prep Time: 10 minutes

    Cook Time: 1 hour

    Polenta Taragna

    Ingredients

    • 1 liter of water
    • 120 g buckwheat flour
    • 80 g cornmeal (fig. a)
    • 75 g unsalted butter, cubed (fig. b)
    • 250 g semi-fat cheese, cubed (e.g.: Fontina) (fig. c)
    • ½ teaspoon salt

    Preparation

    1. Bring the water to a boil in the traditional copper cauldron or in a heavy-bottomed, stainless steel saucepan.
    2. Slowly add the flours, while stirring constantly, until a lump-free mixture is obtained (figs. 1, 2, 3).
    3. Cook at medium-low heat for 50-60 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent the mix from sticking to the pot.
    4. When the polenta is almost ready, add the butter and allow it to melt (fig. 4).
    5. Finally, turn off the heat and add the cheese (fig. 5).
    6. Keep stirring until the cheese has partially melted (fig. 6).
    7. Serve in earthenware or ceramic bowls, or on a cutting board if used as a side.
    https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/01/polenta-taragna.html

    Caldarroste (Roasted Chestnuts)

    Nicknamed ‘caldarroste’ in Italian, roasted chestnuts are a great segue in the series of seasonal classics. Traditionally, caldarroste are fire-roasted in a holed pan, but they can also be made at home – in the oven or, as described in this recipe, on the stove.

    Cooked chestnuts have a unique mealy texture thanks to their high content of starch and low content of oil, compared to other seeds, and are considered a true delicacy. In late fall, chestnut-gathering is a common leisure activity in the vast spontaneous chestnuts groves (‘castagneti’) that can be found all throughout Italy. During their season, cultivated chestnuts can also be found at greengrocer’s shops. In big cities, roasted chestnuts are commonly sold by street vendors, especially around the holidays.

    Before roasting, chestnuts need to be prepared with an incision on the skin (as shown in the picture). As the chestnut cooks, the cut will allow the vapor to escape and the skin to open up as it shrinks – when the chestnut will be fully cooked, the skin will come off easily.

    Chestnuts can be roasted on the gas burner in a holed aluminum pan used directly on the flame. On the electric burner, good results can be obtained by using a large stainless steel pot, at a high temperature. As the skin starts to burn, keep tossing the chestnuts around for 15-20 minutes, depending on the size. Two or three times during the cooking time, toss a tablespoon of water into the pot and place a lid on it for a couple of minutes to steam the chestnuts and help them cook more uniformly. Chestnuts can also be boiled in water for 30-40 minutes, in which case no incision is needed.

    Pasta Calendar 2012

    Pasta shapes are aesthetically pleasing. They are warm, they’re playful, even comforting. And they have interesting names if you think about it. In the Pasta Names Explained article, I went through the most common pasta cuts and gave an explanation of the origin of their names in the form of a literal translation.

    As 2011 wraps up, I created a downloadable Pasta Calendar, featuring 12 high-resolution pictures of some of the most interesting types of pasta – one for each month of the year. The calendar is free for everyone, but to download your copy you will have to answer a simple quiz :). It’s really just for fun – I hope you’ll enjoy the game and that you’ll like the calendar.

    Open the updated page to take the quiz!

    Search Queries

    One of the most interesting aspects of keeping a blog is to look up the statistics on how people come across it. Aside from being referred by other websites, many visitors stumble upon the blog by using search engines. When they do, the exact sentence that they typed in into the search bar is collected in the statistics (although anonymized).

    This atypical post contains the verbatim transcripts of some of the most interesting search queries that I have seen over the 15 months of running Quatro Fromaggio and Other Disgraces on the Menu. Some of these queries led the visitors to relevant articles which hopefully answered them. Some other queries instead brought up pages that did not satisfy the visitor at all. For some of those, this post also tries to provide some answers. In a way, this post was written by the visitors themselves!

    To get started, something that surprised me. Some people were able to get here by performing extremely generic searches. Here are some examples:
    Q: what to eat in Italy
    Q: type of italian food
    Q: typical italian breakfast
    Q: various cheese names and their origin
    Q: frequently mispronounced Italian
    Q: most often misspelled italian words
    A: Answering these questions is really hard, but if you read this blog you’ll hopefully get an idea 🙂

    Speaking of spelling, many visits came from people who were unsure how to write Italian words. For instance:
    Q: correct spelling of margarita pizza
    Q: correct spelling of osso bucca
    Q: correct spelling of proscuitto
    Q: foccaccia misspelling
    Q: fromaggio or formaggio
    A: Pizza Margherita, Osso Buco, Prosciutto, Focaccia, Formaggio (see Top Misspelled).

    Other people were instead completely confused on the meaning of some Italian words:
    Q: what is formaggio cheese
    Q: how many cheeses i n qu atro formaggi pizza
    Q: how many cheese’s in a formaggi cheese
    Q: what is formaggio cheese in english
    Q: is parmesan cheese the same as formaggio cheese
    Q: what cheese can i use in place of formaggio
    A: ‘Formaggio‘ is Italian for cheese. “Parmesan” is the English translation of Parmigiano, a type of formaggio.

    Q: in cuisine what does colazione mean
    Q: colazione for breakfast
    A: ‘Colazione‘ is Italian for breakfast.

    Some people got here while looking for tips and tricks on Italian food and wine. These are some examples:
    Q: why should cored wine bottles be stored on their side?
    A: To keep the cork wet, as a dry cork will shrink and let some air into the bottle.

    Q: “passito de pantelleria “once opened”
    A: Fortified wines such as Passito di Pantelleria usually keep really well, they can be stored in a cool place or in the fridge for quite some time. See the Wine and Italy article for more information.

    Q: porcini risotto “dirty water”
    Q: do i have to wash porcini mushrooms before rehydrating them
    A: The leftover water where the mushrooms have been re-hydrated may or may not be clean (it depends on whether the mushrooms had been cleaned before being dried). Personally, I don’t find that using that water adds that much flavor to my risotto, so I discard it. However, I don’t squeeze or rinse the re-hydrated mushrooms.

    Q: perforated pan on top of a pizza stone
    Q: perforated pizza disc versus regular pizza disc
    A: As far as I know, the perforated pan works better than a regular pizza pan, but it’s used directly in the oven – not on top of a pizza stone. The pizza stone (alone) works best, but it’s harder to use.

    Q: can prosciutto ham be kept unrefrigerated
    A: No. The whole uncut prosciutto can be stored at low temperatures; once opened it needs to go in the fridge.

    Q: where to fill demi johns with amarone della valpolicella
    A: I don’t know, but let me know as soon as you find out!

    Sometimes the results of searches must have been really disappointing! For example for queries like:
    Q: dolcetto d’asti wine kit
    A: Seriously? You can’t have a wine kit for a DOC wine, sorry! Unless of course you live in Piedmont 🙂

    Q: what white wine goes with limoncello
    A: Limoncello is a liqueur. Why would you pair a wine and a liqueur?

    Other times instead, people were really onto something. For instance:
    Q: why italians call a croissant, brioche?
    A: Because they don’t know French pastries 🙂

    Q: is gelati plural for gelato
    A: Yes!

    Q: is formaggio another word for cheese
    A: You got it!

    People also wondered about weird stuff, or they wanted to know they’re not alone:
    Q: what is the italian gelati flavour that tastes like cough medicine
    A: Amarena? (Sour cherry)

    Q: most popular mouthwash in italy
    A: I don’t know… but it’s probably mint flavored.

    Q: which type of pasta goes best with aglio
    A: Aglio is Italian for garlic. I hope you mean ‘aglio, olio e peperoncino’, in which case I’d say ‘spaghetti’.

    Q: soft meringue is disgusting
    A: I agree 🙂

    Some people wanted to know more about the Italian multi-course meal:
    Q: italian courses in a meal
    A: See the Italian Courses article.

    Q: what is companatico and why am i charged for it
    A: ‘Companatico’ is the collective name given to anything that goes with bread. That is the entire meal 🙂 No wonder why you were charged!

    Or they had specific questions about the Italian breakfast:
    Q: italians eat cold cuts for breakfast
    A: Some do, but most don’t. It’s more common in the northern regions, near the border with Austria.

    Q: qhat to eat dor breakfast in italian bars
    A: The most popular breakfast in bars is cappuccino and croissant. See the Breakfast or Colazione article.

    Q: what do italians eat for brunch
    A: Brunch is not an Italian tradition. When Italians feel like a late breakfast, they just call it early lunch.

    Q: reasons italians don’t have milk in their coffee
    A: A lot of Italians do, actually. Not the majority though.

    Q: what do italians enjoy with their coffee
    A: It depends – something sweet, some chocolate, a glass of mineral water.

    Lots of searches were also about autogrill, aperitivo and antipasto.
    Q: autogrill panini italy
    Q: camogli autogrill
    Q: how to order at autogrill italy
    A: See the Autogrill article. It’s particularly interesting that people don’t know how to order at an autogrill. It’s probably not the most obvious process 🙂

    Q: appertivo – free buffet offered at bars during the happy hour
    Q: best aperitivo in milan
    Q: non alcoholic aperitivo
    A: See the Aperitivo article.

    Q: antipasto pickled in oil
    Q: antipasto with tuna and pickled vegetables
    Q: types of green olives for antipasto
    A: See the Antipasto article.

    Many people were interested in learning more about Italian wine:
    Q: term for wine in italy with atleast 1% more alcohol than the legal minimum
    Q: uva fragola wine illegal italy
    Q: what does the term “novello” indicate on a wine label?
    A: The term for a wine whose alcohol level is greater by at least 1% than the minimum established for its designation is ‘Superiore’. The wine “Fragolino” (made with ‘uva fragola’, Concord grape) is illegal in Italy. The term ‘Novello’ indicates that the wine has been bottled within the end of the year of when (at least 30% of) its grapes have been harvested. See the Wine and Italy article for more information.

    Or Italian cheese:
    Q: mozzarella cheese in north america compared to italy
    A: Italian mozzarella is better than North American mozzarella, and mozzarella from Naples is better than mozzarella from Milan.

    Q: what cheese is aged less than 6 months
    A: All fast and medium ripening cheeses (e.g.: Mascarpone, Taleggio, Gorgonzola). See the Formaggio Cheese article for more information.

    Q: what is the name for cottage cheese in italy
    Q: what kind of cheese is sottilette
    A: The Kraft product “Jocca” is cottage cheese. ‘Sottilette’ is (processed) cheese slices.

    Q: what cheese do you use in quatro formaggi
    A: There isn’t a rule, any four kinds of cheese will do. On pizza, they are usually chosen between gorgonzola, scamorza, ricotta, fontina, grana padano; plus of course mozzarella (which may or may not be counted).

    Q: formaggio taleggio in north america buy
    A: Specialty Italian stores usually have it.

    Q: what kind of cheese mixes well with gorgonzola
    A: It’s an interesting question. Gorgonzola is normally eaten by itself (delicious on bread!). It is however mixed with other cheese when making cheese sauces, or on gorgonzola pizza (where mozzarella is also added). Another interesting mix is the Torta al Gorgonzola e Mascarpone.

    Or gelato:
    Q: ice cream in italy
    Q: semi fredi gelato
    Q: what is the meaning of gelato
    A: ‘Gelato’ literally means frozen. It may resemble ice-cream, but it’s a completely different product. A ‘semi-freddo’ is the equivalent of an ice cream cake. See the article on Gelato vs. Ice Cream for more information.

    Or even the soft drink “Chinotto”:
    Q: what does chinotto taste like
    Q: aftertaste chinotto
    A: Chinotto is a citrus used to make a popular Italian soft drink. Its bitter aftertaste makes it an acquired flavor.

    Italian dressing is also often puzzling to people:
    Q: what kind of vinegar is in italian dressing?
    Q: what oil is most commonly used in italian dressing
    Q: different types of italian dressings
    Q: how do italians dress their salads
    Q: what kind of oil and vinegar goes on a table
    A: See the Italian Dressing article.

    People were also interested in the proper way to cook pasta, and some were particularly confused on this regard! For instance:
    Q: why it is suggegted to cook the food in salty water
    Q: how salty should water for pasta be?
    Q: how much salt stays with pasta
    A: Salted water gives flavor to the pasta and makes it less likely to stick to itself. Typically, ½ Tbsp of salt is needed for every 4 cups of water. Not much salt will be actually absorbed by the pasta. See the Cooking Pasta 101 article for more information.

    Q: “dried egg noodles” gram per person
    Q: how much fresh pasta for a first course
    Q: how much pasta is a serving in italy?
    Q: 80g raw pasta how much cooked
    Q: how much is 60g of pasta
    A: See the Cooking Pasta 101 article.

    Q: which italian pasta doesnt overcook?
    Q: what does it mean when it says cook pasta raw
    A: Every pasta eventually overcooks. Quality durum semolina pasta takes longer to cook and therefore it also takes longer to overcook. Cooking pasta ‘raw’ doesn’t mean anything, cooking pasta ‘al dente’ (to the tooth) means that the cooked pasta should be firm enough to require it to be chewed. See the Pasta 101 article for more information.

    People were also quite interested in gnocchi:
    Q: what sauce should gnocchi be served with?
    Q: fist size gnocchi
    Q: gnocchetti alla romana
    Q: ricer alternative gnocchi
    A: Gnocchi are served pretty much with any kind of pasta sauces. Perhaps we can consider ‘canederli‘ as fist-size gnocchi. ‘Gnocchi alla Romana’ are made with semolina flour (and no potatoes). In making gnocchi, a potato masher or a food mill can be used as an alternative to the potato ricer.

    But they were mostly curious about “Pizzoccheri della Valtellina” – the article which has the highest number of hits to date:
    Q: pizzoccheri meaning
    Q: pizzoccheri what sort of cheese should i use
    Q: what is an equivalent to valtellina casera cheese
    A: the name Pizzoccheri has nothing to do with pizza. According to their official website, it derives from ‘pinzocheri’, which jokingly means “bigot people”. ‘Valtellina Casera’ cheese can be replaced with other mild semi-cooked cheeses (such as young Fontina, Montasio, Raclette or Gouda).

    Finally, other people were instead more into science and wanted to find out how certain ingredients compare between Italy and North America.

    For instance, they look for facts about olive oil:
    Q: facts about italy’s olive oil
    Q: fats and oils triangle
    A: See the Olive Oil Facts article.

    Or about rice:
    Q: indica and japonica rice examples
    Q: relative absorption of water different type of rice
    A: See the Rice Demystified article.

    Or milk:
    Q: difference between italian and american milk
    Q: is milk in italy fortified with vitamin d
    Q: pasteurized milk shelf life canada italy
    Q: does milk in italy taste different
    A: Italian milk has a shorter shelf life, and it’s not fortified with Vitamin D. The difference in flavor is mostly due to the cows’ different diet.

    Q: is italian milk homoginized
    A: Yes, it’s homogenized.

    Q: does italy have pasteurized milk
    A: Yes, though unpasteurized milk can also be found. See the There’s Milk and Milk article for more information.