Tag: milk

Gorgonzola – The Italian Blue

If you like blue cheese, but you haven’t tried Gorgonzola (), you’re going to love it. If you don’t like blue cheese, and you try Gorgonzola, you might very well start to like blue cheese! In fact, next to the traditional Piccante (pungent) variety, the milder Dolce (sweet) variety meets the palate of those who are not too fond of ‘blue’ flavors.

The characteristic pungent aroma of Gorgonzola Piccante is due to the aromatic molds that, over a 6 month aging period, grow to fully inhabit it. As the cheese ages, it becomes compact or even crumbly because of its natural loss of moisture (down to 30-40%). This transformation also intensifies the flavor.

A slice of Gorgonzola Piccante
A slice of Gorgonzola Piccante

The Dolce variety instead (shown in the feature image) is only aged 2 to 3 months: it has only partially established molds and still contains high amounts of moisture (45%). This results in a cheese that is only mildly blue, and that is also creamy and spreadable.

Both the Dolce and the Piccante varieties are made from whole cow milk, and they have similar percentages of fat (around 25-30%).

Cheese production makes use of specific kinds of molds (Penicillia) that over the centuries were discovered capable of improving the flavor and the texture of the product. We now know that these molds are aerobic fungi that produce enzymes capable of metabolizing the milk fats and proteins, therefore completely transforming the cheese. These molds are perfectly safe to eat since they don’t release any toxins and even have antibacterial properties. The antibiotic penicillin, in fact, derives from a mold that belongs to the same family.

Out of all of the different kinds of Penicillia, only two are responsible for the characteristic flavor of the countless varieties of blue cheese: Penicillium glaucum and Penicillium roqueforti. Gorgonzola is traditionally made using the former, but the latter can also be used.

A drum of Gorgonzola
For easier distribution, the drum of is generally cut into 4 pieces.

Molds are often associated with cheese, but in most kinds of cheese, they grow only on the rind. In blue cheese, instead, the mold is encouraged to grow deeply into the cheese paste. Since Penicillia need at least minimal levels of oxygen to survive, in the production of Gorgonzola, the uncooked curds are left unpressed to favor the formation of fissures and cavities through which the mold will be able to breathe. In order to get an even more uniform growth of the mold within the paste, when the cheese is 3-4 weeks old, the rind is perforated deeply with metal needles. The mold ends up thriving on the walls of the holes, forming the characteristic green veining. In Italian, this process is called Erborinatura from the word ‘erburin’, which means ‘parsley‘ in northern Italian dialect, in reference to the similarly green color.

Origins

The exact origins of Gorgonzola are unknown, but they certainly revolve around a city that bears the same name, 15 km East of Milan, in the core of Lombardy.

Location of Gorgonzola in Italy
Milan (green dot) and Gorgonzola (red dot) in the region Lombardy.

As early as in the 9th century, Lombardy was known for the production of a soft cheese called stracchino(1). There is evidence that the stracchino made around the town of Gorgonzola developed special characteristics that made it unique – likely it was contaminated with a particular mold which is naturally present in the caves where the cheese was ripened. The “stracchino of Gorgonzola” started being appreciated as a different kind of cheese, a delicacy that then became known in all of northern Italy.

Over time, the production of Gorgonzola expanded to other parts of Lombardy, but the city of Gorgonzola maintained its prestige until the middle of the 19th century. In 1840 writer Luigi Cattaneo wrote in his Milanese publication: Il Politecnico that “while the cheesemakers of the town of Gorgonzola kept the secret of the peculiar circumstances that make this cheese special, this cheese remained their almost exclusive privilege. But nowadays this cheese is produced in several other locations in Lombardy with the same good success, although the one that is made in the surroundings of Gorgonzola maintains higher commercial regard.”(2)

Since 1970, the production of Gorgonzola is regulated by its Consortium, and it’s limited to specific areas of Lombardy and Piedmont, as stipulated by its designation of Protected Geographical Status.

Uses

Gorgonzola and mascarpone "cake".
Gorgonzola and mascarpone “cake”.

Gorgonzola is commonly eaten by itself, usually spread on bread. The aged variety (Piccante) is sometimes paired with honey to counterbalance its intense body. For those who prefer more delicate flavors, a modern preparation exists that is even milder than Gorgonzola Dolce: a “cake” made by layering sweet Gorgonzola with mascarpone.

Gorgonzola is also widely used in cooking. The main examples see it used:

  • as a sauce for pasta or gnocchi, sometimes with the addition of walnuts;
  • in risotto, simply added when the rice is nearly cooked;
  • on pizza, alone or as one of the 4 kinds of cheese in quattro formaggi;
  • with polenta, especially baked in layers.
Gorgonzola Piccante with chestnut honey.
Gorgonzola Piccante with chestnut honey.
Pasta with Gorgonzola.
Pasta with Gorgonzola.

The wine pairings of Gorgonzola are somewhat difficult and a source of lengthy debates. There seems to be consensus, however, that the Dolce variety goes with fruity wines (Riesling, Pinot bianco, various novelli). The Piccante variety, instead, needs a stronger, sweeter wine, even fortified: various kinds of passito, as well as Port and Marsala. All agree that Gorgonzola goes well with beer, especially the Trappist kind.

Notes

1) Stracchino is a fat cheese whose name derives from the word “stracco” (“tired” in Milanese dialect), in reference to the fact that it was made with the milk of cows that were “tired” because of having just returned to the valley after spending the summer on higher pastures.
2) Luigi Cattaneo, On the way to produce the fat cheese called Stracchino of Gorgonzola, Il Politecnico 3 (1840), p. 309-322.

Addendum – Bloggers Recipes (from comments)

Thanks to my friend bloggers who accepted my invitation to share their best Gorgonzola recipes! Here is a clickable list compiled from their comments. Enjoy!

Simona (Briciole)

Roz (La Bella Vita)

Manu (Manu’s Menu)

Frank Fariello (Memorie di Angelina)

Pola (An Italian Cooking in the Midwest)

And my own:

Tagliatelle Timbale with Wine Gravy – Baked Pasta in Pizza Crust

A few weeks ago, I was thrilled to be invited by Roz from La Bella Vita to write a guest post for her blog. She asked if I could present a traditional Italian Christmas dish. I didn’t really have a dish that is only for Christmas, so I chose a recipe for really special occasions – an Italian classic adapted from Silver Spoon’s “Pasticcio di Tagliatelle”.

As I explained on Roz’s blog, “in Italian cuisine, a ‘pasticcio’ (sometimes referred to as ‘timballo’) is a preparation in which several ingredients (including pasta or rice, meats, and sauces) are baked in the oven within a pastry shell or a pie crust. The resulting dish, which looks plain on the outside but reveals rich fillings, was invented in the 1700s by palace chefs precisely to surprise and delight their noble guests. Today, pasticcio is still considered a dish for special occasions, including the Christmas meal.”

Tagliatelle Timbale with Wine Gravy

Yield: 3-4 servings

Total Time: 1 hour, 15 minutes

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cook Time: 45 minutes

Tagliatelle Timbale with Wine Gravy

Ingredients

     For the timbale

    • 2 Tbsp (30 g) unsalted butter (including some for greasing)
    • 7 oz (200 g) pizza dough (which can be bought in specialty stores)
    • Some flour (for dusting)
    • 4 oz (120 g) fresh spinach
    • 6 oz (170 g) Cremini mushrooms, chopped
    • ½ oz (14 g) dried Porcini mushrooms, re-hydrated and chopped
    • ¼ cup white wine
    • 1 Tbsp (15 ml) milk
    • 2 Tbsp (30 ml) heavy cream
    • 4 oz (120 g) tagliatelle pasta (either fresh or dried)
    • 1 egg
    • ¼ cup Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
    • Some salt and pepper

     For the wine gravy

    • 1 Tbsp (15 g) unsalted butter
    • 1 Tbsp (15 g) all purpose flour
    • ½ tsp vegetable stock extract
    • 1 cup milk
    • ¼ cup white wine

    Preparation

       For the timbale

      1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
      2. Preheat the oven at 350°F (180°C).
      3. Grease an oven-proof dish with butter.
      4. In a large pan, roast the fresh mushrooms in butter for 5 min at high heat.
      5. Add the re-hydrated mushroom, cook for another 2 min at medium heat (a1).
      6. Add the wine (a2) and allow it to boil until it evaporates.
      7. Cook the fresh spinach in a covered pot (without any added water) at medium heat for 5 min (a3).
      8. When the spinach is ready, squeeze out as much water as possible and chop.
      9. Add the spinach to the pan (a4).
      10. Add milk and cream (a5), adjust salt and pepper.
      11. Cook the tagliatelle in plenty of salted water for 2/3 of their standard cooking time.
      12. Drain the tagliatelle and them to the pan. Incorporate gently (a6).
      13. Roll out the dough to the thickness of 1/8 inch (3 mm).
      14. Line the (greased) oven proof dish with the dough (b1).
      15. Spoon in the filling (b2).
      16. Beat the eggs with the Parmigiano. Pour the mix uniformly over the filling (b3).
      17. Fold the pizza dough fully wrapping it around the filling (b4).
      18. Bake for 30-40 minutes at 350°F (180°C) until the top is well browned.

       For the wine gravy

      1. Warm up the butter in a small pan (c1) at medium heat until it barely melts, then add the wine (c2).
      2. Add the vegetable stock extract (c3). Let it reduce, then add the flour (c4).
      3. Mix until a ball of dough forms.
      4. Add a small amount of milk and whip until you get a creamy texture (c5).
      5. Gradually add the rest of the milk, as you continue whipping.
      6. While stirring constantly, boil for at least 2 minutes until the mix thickens (c6).
      7. Pour the gravy in the bowls, then place a slice of timbale in each bowl and serve immediately.
      https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/12/tagliatelle-timbale-with-wine-gravy.html

      Tiramisu, the Uplifting Dessert

      Tiramisu (or Tiramisù, as written in Italian) is arguably the world’s most popular Italian dessert after gelato. Featured by many Italian restaurants in North America, Tiramisu is for the Italians more of a homemade party cake and an unpretentious dessert found in pizzerie and trattorie.

      Even though Tiramisu is a modern creation and many claim its paternity, its origins are actually unknown. The consensus is that Tiramisu as we know it became popular in the 1980s, possibly as a variation of the British trifle in which ladyfingers (called ‘savoiardi’ in Italy) and a cream of mascarpone are used instead of sponge cake and custard. Part of the dessert’s success may be due to its odd name. Although it’s the subject of another debate, most concur that it originated in the literal meaning of the Italian words ‘tirami su’: “pull me up” or “pick me up,” possibly referred to the “uplifting” or even “aphrodisiac” effects of coffee and chocolate.

      As described in the recipe below, Tiramisu is commonly flavored with rum (or brandy), coffee and cocoa powder. However, around Italy, there are also versions with very different flavors (e.g. amaretto and peaches, or limoncello and strawberries).

      All versions of Tiramisu are centered around a mascarpone filling which traditionally contains raw eggs (as in the recipe below). There are also egg-less versions in which the mascarpone is blended with whipping cream and sugar, resulting in a richer, but also heavier dessert. North American versions often contain more sugar than their Italian counterparts.

      Like trifle, Tiramisu needs to rest in the fridge for several hours to set and develop flavor. It is common to prepare it the day before and let it rest in the fridge overnight.

      Tiramisu, the Uplifting Dessert

      Yield: 8-10 portions

      Total Time: 45 minutes

      Prep Time: 45 minutes

      Tiramisu, the Uplifting Dessert

      Ingredients

      • 400 g savoiardi

       For the cream

      • 500 g mascarpone cheese (choose a good quality brand - good mascarpone tastes creamy, not cheesy)
      • 5 eggs (at room temperature)
      • 5 Tbsp sugar
      • 2 Tbsp rum (or brandy)

       For the coffee dip

      • 6 shots espresso (or an equivalent amount of strong coffee)
      • 2 Tbsp sugar
      • 1 cup milk
      • 2 Tbsp rum

       For the finish

      • ½ Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder
      • Some shaved dark chocolate (optional)

      Preparation

      1. Whisk together egg yolks and sugar (fig. 1) until the mixture becomes lighter in color.
      2. One tablespoon at a time, incorporate the mascarpone (fig. 2). This operation is considered difficult because mascarpone and egg create an emulsion that can suddenly separate. To help prevent this, use egg yolks at room temperature* and begin by incorporating a "starter mix" made by combining a tablespoon of mascarpone and some beaten egg yolk. If the mascarpone is soft, another great option is to stir the beaten egg yolks into the mascarpone, instead of the other way around.
      3. Add the rum (fig. 3), stir slowly until absorbed.
      4. Add the beaten egg white, mixing gently from the bottom upwards in order to incorporate air (fig. 4). The egg whites will work as a stabilizer and help the mascarpone remain emulsified*.
      5. Set the cream aside (fig. 5).
      6. Prepare the coffee dip by mixing espresso and sugar, then adding milk and rum. Let it completely cool off. Dip each ladyfinger in it for a couple of seconds (fig. 6).
      7. Lay each ladyfinger in the baking pan forming a first layer of cookies (fig. 7).
      8. Add a layer of mascarpone cream, then add one more layer of cookies (fig. 8).
      9. Continue alternating the two ingredients, finishing with a layer of mascarpone (fig. 9).
      10. Using a sifter, generously cover the top with unsweetened cocoa powder (fig. 10).
      11. Then, optionally, add the shaved dark chocolate (fig. 11).
      12. Chill the finished Tiramisu (fig. 12) in the fridge for at least 8 hours, covered with tinfoil.

      Notes

      *Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. 2nd edition (2004).

      https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/03/tiramisu-uplifting-dessert.html

       

      Canederli, the Italian Knödel

      Canederli are bread dumplings only found in the north-east of Italy (Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli, and part of Veneto), where they are served as a first course or as a main entree. Variations of this dish are common in all south-eastern Europe, where they are also served as an accompaniment to meat stews and roasts. The word ‘canederlo’, in fact, derives from the German and Austrian ‘knödel’ (dumpling).

      Canederli can be considered part of ‘cucina povera’ (cuisine of the poor), as they are made of simple and inexpensive ingredients: stale bread moistened with milk and bound with eggs and a small amount of flour. However, the mixture is often enriched with cheese and Speck (a kind of smoked prosciutto also local to the north-east regions of Italy).

      There are several variations of this regional dish, the following recipe describes one of the most common: filled with cheese. Once the dumplings are prepared and boiled, they are either served “dry” with melted butter or in broth.

      Canederli, the Italian Knödel

      Yield: 4-5 servings

      Total Time: 2 hours, 20 minutes

      Prep Time: 2 hours

      Cook Time: 20 minutes

      #Canederli, the Italian Knödel

      Ingredients

         For the dumplings

        • 300 g (10 oz) stale bread, diced (which can be obtained by dicing 450 g of fresh bread and laying it on a perforated tray for 24-48 hours, covered with a tea towel) - it's important that the bread is fully dried out and crunchy
        • 225 ml (1 scant cup) milk
        • 3 eggs, lightly beaten
        • 60 g (½ cup) white flour
        • 3 Tbsp (minced) flat leaf (Italian) parsley
        • 200 g (7 oz) cheese, e.g.: Fontina, Raclette (smoked or plain), or Gouda (smoked or plain), diced
        • 45 g (3 Tbsp) unsalted butter
        • 1 ½ Tbsp olive oil
        • 1 onion, finely chopped
        • ½ tsp salt
        • ¼ tsp pepper
        • ¼ tsp nutmeg
        • 3 liters (12 cups) of vegetable stock (for boiling)

         To serve them "dry"

        • 20 g (1 ½ Tbsp) (per serving) unsalted butter
        • 10 g (2 tsp) (per serving) grated Parmigiano
        • 1 small bunch of chives, thinly sliced

         To serve them in broth

        • 1 cup (per serving) additional vegetable stock
        • Some grated Parmigiano
        • Some chives, thinly sliced (optional)

        Preparation

        1. Put the stale bread into a large mixing bowl (1). Add the milk (2), the eggs (3), as well as salt, pepper and nutmeg.
        2. Mix well and let it rest for at least two hours, covered with a tea towel, in a cool place or in the fridge. Stir occasionally to ensure that the mix absorbs the liquid uniformly.
        3. After the two hours, add the flour (4), then the parsley (5), and the cheese (6). Mix gently.
        4. Finely chop the onion (7) and fry it in oil and butter for ten minutes at medium heat, stirring occasionally.
        5. Let the onion cool (8), then incorporate it into the mix (9).
        6. Let the mixture rest for another half-hour covered with a tea towel. It should look uniformly moist and slightly sticky.
        7. Using your hands, form the canederli by pressing together enough of the mix to make balls the size of a small orange (60 to 80 grams each). You should be able produce 14-16 balls out of the entire mix.
        8. After making each ball, roll it in flour to seal the outside and prevent the canederli from sticking to each other (10).
        9. When all the canederli are ready, re-roll them into flour and compress them a second time (11).
        10. Have the vegetable stock in a large pot, well boiling on the stove.
        11. Place the canederli gently in the pot (12-13), wait until the boil is resumed (14).
        12. Boil the canederli for 12-15 minutes (they will be floating the whole time), then drain them gently.
        13. If serving the canederli "dry", warm up the butter just enough to melt it. Place 3 canederli into each plate, pour the melted butter on them, then sprinkle with some thin-sliced chives, a generous amount of grated Parmigiano, and some freshly ground black pepper.

        Notes

        Note: once boiled, the canederli can be stored in the fridge for up to 3 days, or in the freezer for up to 2 weeks.

        If serving the canederli in broth, prepare more vegetable stock (as the one used for boiling will be cloudy because of the flour). Place one or two canederli into each bowl, then pour the broth on them. Finish with some grated Parmigiano and (optional) chives.

        https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/01/canederli-italian-knodel.html

        More featured recipes

        Polenta Taragna – An Enriched Polenta from the Italian Mountains

        In previous posts, we talked about Cucina Povera, the cuisine of the poor, now becoming “fashionable” in high-end restaurants. This is the case also for polenta – one of the simplest dishes ever conceived.

        Now traditionally made with cornmeal, different types of polenta have been feeding the masses since Roman times, well before the discovery of the Americas and the subsequent introduction of corn into Europe. Earlier polentas were made with millet, rye, spelt, barley, chickpeas, chestnuts or wheat flours.

        Polenta cooker at a town fair
        Polenta cooker at a town fair

        In Italy, polenta is a relatively common accompaniment to stews, braised dishes, and fried fish, often as an alternative to bread. In some parts of northern Italy, polenta becomes a more involved dish thanks to the use of different grains and to the addition of cheeses, milk, butter. This recipe describes one of the most renowned polenta spin-offs: Polenta Taragna.

        Polenta Taragna is typical of Valtellina as well as of the valleys of Bergamo and Brescia. Its most characteristic trait is its dark color, due to the use of buckwheat flour (mixed with cornmeal). Polenta Taragna can also be recognized from other polenta-based dishes for containing substantial amounts of butter and cheese, mixed in right before the dish is served. The cheeses used in this preparation vary from region to region, but they’re commonly semi-fat, medium-ripened cow-milk cheeses (e.g.: Valtellina Casera, Bitto, Branzi, or Fontina). Polenta Taragna is served as a main course, or to accompany cold cuts and Italian pickles.

        Polenta Taragna

        Yield: 2 servings (as a main)

        Total Time: 1 hour, 10 minutes

        Prep Time: 10 minutes

        Cook Time: 1 hour

        Polenta Taragna

        Ingredients

        • 1 liter of water
        • 120 g buckwheat flour
        • 80 g cornmeal (fig. a)
        • 75 g unsalted butter, cubed (fig. b)
        • 250 g semi-fat cheese, cubed (e.g.: Fontina) (fig. c)
        • ½ teaspoon salt

        Preparation

        1. Bring the water to a boil in the traditional copper cauldron or in a heavy-bottomed, stainless steel saucepan.
        2. Slowly add the flours, while stirring constantly, until a lump-free mixture is obtained (figs. 1, 2, 3).
        3. Cook at medium-low heat for 50-60 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent the mix from sticking to the pot.
        4. When the polenta is almost ready, add the butter and allow it to melt (fig. 4).
        5. Finally, turn off the heat and add the cheese (fig. 5).
        6. Keep stirring until the cheese has partially melted (fig. 6).
        7. Serve in earthenware or ceramic bowls, or on a cutting board if used as a side.
        https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/01/polenta-taragna.html

        Pasta with Gorgonzola

        This quick and versatile recipe is another great representative of the cuisine of northern Italy. With any kind of strong, creamy cheese and a handful of always-ready ingredients, this delicious sauce can be whipped together from scratch in minutes. In Italy, there is absolutely no Alfredo sauce! The most famous dish that makes use of a creamy cheese sauce is ‘Gnocchi al Gorgonzola‘, but any kind of pasta can be used – and boxed dried pasta is actually recommended for this dish.

        Pasta with Gorgonzola

        Yield: 2 servings

        Total Time: 25 minutes

        Prep Time: 5 minutes

        Cook Time: 20 minutes

        Pasta with Gorgonzola

        Ingredients

        • 10 g butter (1 tablespoon)
        • 10 g water (1 tablespoon)
        • 10 g flour (1 tablespoon)
        • 100 g milk (½ cup)
        • some ground nutmeg
        • some ground black pepper
        • salt
        • 40 g Gorgonzola, Cambozola, or other blue cheese
        • One handful of crushed walnuts, pecans or pine nuts
        • 20 g grated Parmigiano
        • 140 g dried pasta. In the picture above you can see whole-wheat 'penne', but any dried pasta or fresh gnocchi can be used. Ricotta and spinach, or cheese ravioli also work very well with this sauce.

        Preparation

        1. Put butter and water in a saucepan at medium heat.
        2. When butter has melted, add the flour.
        3. Stir until it sizzles.
        4. Gradually add the milk, stirring constantly. Bring to a boil. Add the nutmeg.
        5. Add the walnuts, the Gorgonzola, the Parmigiano, and adjust with salt and pepper.
        6. Cook the pasta "al dente", then drain it and put it back in the pan adding the cheese sauce. Mix well and serve in pre-heated bowls.
        https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/02/pasta-with-gorgonzola.html

        There’s Milk and Milk

        For a blog that talks about Italian food compared to its North American counterpart, milk is probably one of the less obvious choices of topics. But if cow milk is similar, how milk differs as a product and how Italians and North Americans look at it can be quite interesting. For instance, it is perfectly normal for Italians to buy fresh milk with a shelf life of 2 days, or meant to be stored unrefrigerated for months before consumption.

        Before we venture ourselves into the different preservation techniques, let’s talk for a moment about the relationship between Italians and milk. Italians like fresh milk just as much as North Americans do, but research shows that its consumption as a drink is less in Italian adults. A glass of milk isn’t commonly available in coffee bars and especially in restaurants because Italians don’t have milk with their meals. Flavored milk is also quite uncommon in Italy – chocolate milk does exist, but is only meant for young children (and is not as dense as the North American one). The consumption of milk-derived products, such as cheese, is instead higher in Italy.

        Flavor-wise, Italian milk can taste quite different from the North American one. Flavor largely depends on how the cows are fed. For instance, a prevalently dry hay diet produces a mildly cheesy aroma, while lush pasturage produces sweeter flavors, but also barnyard indoles(3). Homogenization and pasteurization, which are nowadays standard for almost all milk, also affect the flavor.

        Homogenization is a treatment developed in France around 1900 to prevent milk cream from rising to the top. The homogenization process breaks down the fat globules into smaller ones (from 4 μm to 1 μm). Caseine particles form a coating around the fat globules and this weighs them down and interferes with their ability to clump, keeping them evenly dispersed in the milk. The structural changes introduced by homogenization cause the milk to taste blander, but also feel creamier, and appear whiter(3).

        The use of heat as a way to sanitize milk has been documented since the 1820s, but it took until the beginning of the 20th century for milk pasteurization to be regulated and required by the governments(3). Raw unpasteurized milk can, in fact, be quite harmful, as it has a relatively high chance to become infected with dangerous bacteria including salmonella and listeria. Nowadays, raw milk is illegal in Canada, whereas in Italy and in the U.S. its commercialization is restricted to authorized farms (which must be frequently inspected) that can only sell directly to the public within their premises.

        The effects of thermal processing on milk vary based on its intensity and provide different levels of sanitation, shelf life extension, and side-effects on flavor and nutritional values. The following treatments are considered standard(2):

        • Thermalization: 20 seconds at ~65°C. The process kills many vegetative organisms and bacteria that produce enzymes that eventually cause milk deterioration. In the dairy industry, milk is often thermalized before undergoing further processing. Flavor and nutritional properties are unaltered.
        • Low pasteurization: 30 minutes at 63°C, or 15 seconds at 72°C. The latter is referred to as Flash Pasteurization or HTST (high temperature, short-time) and is considered the pasteurization standard for milk. It represents the minimum requirement by law in many countries (including Italy, the U.S., and Canada). Low pasteurized milk is safe to drink because all yeasts, molds, and pathogen bacteria have been killed. However, bacterial spores and some enzymes are preserved. Even if refrigerated, shelf life is limited to 1 or 2 weeks (depending on the milk’s “keeping qualities”). At strict HTST intensity, the flavor is almost unaltered and so are the nutritional properties. The slightly higher time and temperature (20 seconds at 75°C) required by homogenized milk are however sufficient to introduce small alterations.
        • High pasteurization: 20 seconds at 85-100°C. This process, which essentially consists of a short boiling, kills all vegetative organisms and deactivates most enzymes, although still doesn’t affect bacterial spores. High pasteurized milk has a longer shelf life but is more vulnerable to post-processing contamination because the higher temperatures also eliminate the bacterial growth inhibitors. As a result, this type of pasteurization is usually operated on the bottled product. The milk serum starts to denature and a “cooked” flavor develops. The nutritional properties are slightly reduced because of a loss of vitamin C.
        • Sterilization: 30 minutes at 110°C (prolonged boiling), or Ultra-High Temperature processes (UHT) ranging between 30 seconds at 130°C, and 1 second at 145°C. UHT milk (called “ultrapasteurized” in the United States) is preferred over milk sterilized by prolonged boiling because of the more limited browning and a better flavor. Shelf life is generally between 3 and 6 months, unrefrigerated. Once opened, it only lasts for 3-4 days at 4°C because natural bacteria inhibitors have been destroyed by the heating process. The nutritional value of UHT milk is reduced, but it is still a great source of essential nutrients such as calcium and proteins. UHT milk is particularly useful in all cases where transportation or storage of fresh milk is impossible, as well as for all uses that call for boiled milk. UHT milk is very common in Italy, where it represents almost 50% of the entire milk consumption, Italians are mostly used to its flavor and some even prefer it over fresh milk. North America, instead, resists the introduction of UHT because of its flavor and because it’s deemed not acceptable that milk can be stored unrefrigerated.

        In recent years, the milk industry has devised an alternative to UHT which is also capable of extending shelf life, still without using preservatives. Through a process called “microfiltration”, between 99.0 and 99.9% of bacterial cells (including most spores) are removed by using ceramic membranes with pore sizes of about 1 μm(2). Since the fat globules are also about 1 μm in diameter, before microfiltration the milk’s cream is separated, sterilized using a regular UHT treatment, and then added back. Microfiltered milk is nutritionally equivalent to regular pasteurized milk, but with a longer shelf life of up to 3-4 weeks, if properly refrigerated. Flavor-wise, it’s considered similar to regular pasteurized milk, but with a creamier texture.

        Under the same storage temperatures, milk’s shelf life depends on its “keeping quality”, which derives from the quality of the raw milk, the type of pasteurization, and the level of post-processing contamination(1). Keeping quality varies from country to country based on shelf life demand. In Italy, an expiry date of only a few days in the future is considered acceptable for milk, since it’s quite common to buy fresh ailments daily. In North America, a minimum of 2 weeks is generally the requirement.

        Because of the shorter shelf life of fresh milk, Italian milk is sold almost exclusively in 1-liter containers. UHT milk is also sold in 1-liter containers because of its limited expiry time once opened. North American milk instead supports larger formats up to 4 liters, or 1 gallon (in the U.S.).

        Another important difference between Italian and North American milk is in the use of “fortification”. In Canada and the US, by law, vitamin A (a fat-soluble vitamin) is added to all skimmed milk to compensate for the amount that was removed when the milk was skimmed. Milk is also fortified with vitamin D, as regulated by law, to compensate for the lack of exposure of the cattle to direct sunlight. Italian milk has no additives.

        Finally, as a summary of the differences here is a comparison table.

        North American Milk Italian Milk
        Percentages of fat available • Whole (3.5% to 3.8%, called Homogenized in Canada).

        • 2% or “Reduced fat”.

        • 1% or “Low-fat”.

        • Semi-skimmed 1.8% (not available in Canada).

        • Skimmed (less than 0.5%).

        		 • Whole (3.5% fat min).

        • Partly skimmed (1.5% to 1.8%).

        • Skimmed (less than 0.3%).
        Retail sizes Containers up to 1 gallon (4 liters in Canada). Containers usually only up to 1 liter.
        Fortification Vitamins A added to all skimmed milk. Vitamin D added to all milk. No vitamins added – vitamins are not even mentioned in the nutritional info.
        Types of sanitation • Raw milk – illegal in Canada, rare in the U.S.

        • Pasteurized: 2+ weeks shelf life at 4°C max.

        • Microfiltered pasteurized – not very common. 3-4 weeks shelf life at 4°C max.

        • Long preservation milk (UHT) – rarely available. Over 3 months shelf life at room temperature.

        		 • Raw milk legal if sold on the premises from the producer.

        • Pasteurized milk(*) or Fresh Pasteurized milk(**): 6 days shelf life at 4°C max.

        • Microfiltered pasteurized milk. 2-3 weeks shelf life at 4°C max.

        • Long preservation milk (UHT). Over 3 months shelf life at room temperature.

        (*) Milk proteins at least 11% of the total proteins.
        (**) Pasteurization has to occur within 48 hrs from milking. Milk proteins at least 14% of the total (when over 15.5%, can be labeled “High Quality”).

        References

        (1) Smit, G. (Editor). Dairy Processing: Maximising Quality. Cambridge, GBR: Woodhead Publishing, Limited, 2003.

        (2) Walstra, Pieter. Dairy Technology: Principles of Milk Properties and Processes. New York, NY, USA: Marcel Dekker, 1999.

        (3) Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. Second edition (2004).

        Breakfast or Colazione?

        Breakfast in Italy is called ‘prima colazione’, or simply ‘colazione’. It’s the first meal of the day and many say it’s the most important one too. However, North Americans and Italians have fundamental differences of opinions in what to eat for breakfast. The first main difference is that savory breakfast items are almost absent in most parts of Italy. You would never see an Italian eating bacon and eggs, or even a bagel, which is standard in North America – and these items don’t appear on restaurant menus either. Things are quite different on the sweet side as well: no cereals, no peanut butter, no pancakes, no waffles or scones. What do Italians eat for breakfast then?

        These are the components of a typical Italian breakfast: ‘caffè latte’ (hot milk with coffee) with a baked product, such as:

        • Bread or toast (with unsalted butter and jam, or just jam);
        • ‘Fette biscottate’ (called rusk in English) (also with butter and/or jam);
        • Pastries (e.g. croissants) or cakes (e.g. brioches);
        • ‘Biscotti’ (generic name for cookies, but more like the Italian version of cereal), typically ‘frollini’ (butter shortbreads), usually dipped in the caffè latte.

        Hot chocolate or plain black tea (with milk or lemon) is sometimes an alternative to coffee. Other options that are generally reserved for young children include milk with barley or malt coffee substitutes, or milk with cocoa powder.

        Italians follow more rules in general as to when to eat what. A cappuccino, for instance, is a morning treat, it’s OK in the afternoon as an alternative to espresso during coffee breaks, but it’s definitely not a replacement for the after-dinner espresso. Everything has a purpose, and the espresso after a meal is meant to be one last strong punch of flavor – the delicate nuances of a cappuccino would be out of place, and the milk would be heavy on a full stomach.

        In Italy, a small selection of cereals with milk or yogurt cater to the diet-conscious but aren’t very common. Fruit juices are quite popular, especially pear, apricot, peach, and apple. With the exception of citrus, Italian-style juices are generally thicker compared to their North American equivalents, are also sold in individual glass bottles (20 ml), and are sometimes considered a complete meal. Fresh squeezed orange juice is also well-liked, especially during winter.

        As you can see, sweet things are the preference. This is the case almost everywhere in Italy, with the Alto Adige region being the most notable exception. In Alto Adige, also called Südtirol, the Austrian influence can clearly be seen in the tradition of having cheese, ham, and eggs for breakfast.

        A somewhat limited savory presence can also be found in hotels. Italian hotels generally just offer an expanded version of a home breakfast, but with the possible addition of a sample of cold cuts and cheese, in line with what is internationally known as Continental Breakfast.

        A truly Italian routine, however, is to go have breakfast in what Italians call a “bar”. These have very little in common with North American bars. Italian bars are essentially licensed coffee shops that typically serve espresso all day, breakfast in the morning, sandwiches and beer around lunch time, appetizers (called ‘aperitivi’), and long drinks near dinner, and are usually closed in the evening. Bars are extremely popular in Italy – in the big cities you can find them at every corner, and they are all different from one another being usually privately owned (there are no major chains). Bars’ consistent quality, contained prices, and prompt service make them the preferred choice for people who commute to work or to school – it takes less time to get breakfast in a bar than it does to have it at home, and most Italians would also find it more satisfying. Prompt service however comes with a caveat. The busier the place, the more you should know what you want to order before you go in – you don’t want a “no cappuccino for you!” reaction from the bartender. Cash payment is also much preferred because of its speed. Then, after you get served, you are supposed to step aside and consume your breakfast quickly, trying not to exasperate the server and patrons behind you (the fact that it is your turn to be served doesn’t buy you all the time that you want to choose your pastry or dawdle in the bar). Most bars even encourage a quick turnover by having high tables and no sit-down service. You can read more on the Italian Bar in this article.

        Bar-style breakfast consists almost exclusively of what the Italians call ‘cappuccino’ and ‘brioche’. We’ve already talked about cappuccino, and its alternatives such as ‘latte macchiato’ (with more milk), coffee ‘macchiato’ (with less milk), or just plain espresso (with no milk at all). By “brioche”, Italians actually mean any kind of baked good, the most common of which is in fact a croissant (‘cornetto’ in Italian) and almost never an actual brioche. A croissant can be “empty” (‘vuoto’), or filled (e.g. with ‘crema pasticcera’ -pastry cream-, apricot jam, chocolate cream, whipped cream, apple filling, almond filling, etc.). Other breakfast pastries which are also usually filled are: ‘fagottino’ (the equivalent of the French ‘pain au chocolat‘, when filled with chocolate), ‘sfogliatina’ (puff pastry pockets), ‘bombolone’ (also called with its German name ‘krapfen‘, the equivalent of a filled donut), ‘girelle’ (twirls) with raisins. Savory croissants, with optional ham and/or cheese, can also be found, but are definitely far less in vogue than the sweet versions. Other savory options are ‘pizzette’ (small puff pastry pizzas, usually with tomato and mozzarella), but are quite hard to find.

        In Italy, the maximum price of the main bar menu items is regulated by the law. This makes it so all bars tend to charge the same maximum amounts allowed. While not competing on prices, bars still compete on quality. Pastry shops that are also cafés (called ‘bar pasticceria’) generally offer higher standards for baked goods, compared to regular ‘bars’; this is especially true in small towns. In big cities the bars with the higher customers turnover often get their pastries delivered fresh from pastry shops even multiple times a day and the quality of their baked goods is excellent. Smaller bars instead often bake their croissants themselves (from an industrially made base), and while smelling fantastic because of the onsite baking their croissants are not as good (and sometimes are thought of as more buttery and harder to digest). Still, smaller bars make good business in small towns where the competition is less, still providing a service to their customers.

        In conclusion, breakfast is for the Italians a brief yet dear parenthesis in the morning. Even on weekends and holidays people generally don’t go out for sit-down breakfasts. In fact, there are no ‘all day breakfast’ places in Italy (though it’s definitely possible to have a cappuccino all day, it’s uncommon to see people have a croissant in the afternoon, so much so that bars tend to run out of pastries early and don’t replenish). As a result, breakfast in Italy is not necessarily a moment of social aggregation; it’s at most a meet-up point for 2 or 3 individuals.

        The lack of savory options in the Italian breakfast also originates other interesting differences between Italy and North America. One difference is that for the Italians eggs are totally a lunch option (as the main or the second course). Another difference is that in Italy there is absolutely nothing like North American brunch; being the Italian breakfast so different from lunch, the two don’t mix: after sleeping in on weekends Italians may just decide to skip breakfast altogether and have their Sunday’s lasagna!

        Gelato vs. Ice Cream

        What is gelato?

        Gelato is not Italian for ice cream. In Italy, the word ‘gelato’ (plural: ‘gelati ‘, literally meaning ‘frozen’ and with nothing to do with gelatin) refers to a product that resembles ice cream, but that is technically quite different, especially in its artisan version.

        Gelato is based on a custard typically made with egg, sugar, and whole milk (though there is also a variation called ‘sorbetto’ that doesn’t contain dairies). The hot mix is then allowed to slowly cool off for the water to bind with the milk proteins and ultimately give smaller crystals when frozen. Real fruit, chocolate, nuts are then added as flavors. The freezing process happens in small batches in a mixer, and this incorporates air increasing the volume by 25-30%. Gelato should be stored at a temperature between -10 and -15 °C and consumed within a few days.

        Ice cream is usually made with half cream and half milk, normally through a cold mix process. The production lines work in air to double the product’s volume. Ice cream is stored at a temperature around -20 and -25 °C and can last for a few months.

        What makes gelato authentic?

        What is served as ‘gelato’ is not likely to be authentic if:

        • Too sweet. Italian gelato gains its flavor from being denser, slightly warmer, and from containing natural, high-quality ingredients, not just sugar. The flavors are generally quite simple (see below) – in Italy, you will find no marshmallows, peanut butter, Oreos, Reese’s and -please!- nothing savory.
        • Served too cold. Authentic gelato is preserved at a less cold temperature to preserve its creaminess – if the store has too many flavors for what they can sell daily, this is a sign that the product is not freshly made and is deep-frozen to extend its fridge life.
        • Containing too much fat. Artisan gelato would be completely solid in a deep freezer. If the product is still partly soft, this is a sign of higher fat content (if you get a chance to see it melt, gelato melts quickly turning into a milky drink, ice cream instead slowly separates into a thick foam and a watery runoff).

        What is gelato to the Italians?

        So, now that we know how to differentiate ice cream (or bad gelato imitations) from authentic gelato, let’s talk about what gelato really is for the Italians.

        Gelato is a dessert, a refreshment, a summer treat, and even a small meal. The main place to get gelato is in a ‘gelateria’ (gelato parlor). Gelaterie are very common all throughout Italy, but especially in those cities where it gets particularly hot during the summer. During winter, the ones that stay open often only have limited flavors, or even alternatives such as ‘gelato caldo’ (warm gelato, a relatively new invention which is more of a mousse) or just whipped cream (with cocoa or cinnamon powder). Gelaterie serve gelato to go either in individual portions (in cones or disposable cups), or larger quantities in insulated containers (priced by the liter and considerably cheaper than the equivalent amount bought in individual portions; in some cases empty cones are also available, complimentary or for a fee). More elaborate preparations are sometimes offered, usually intended for sit-down customers (compositions with wafers or biscuits, melted chocolate, whipped cream). Gelaterie, as well as most pastry shops, also may offer ‘semifreddi’ (gelato cakes), and, like many cafés, also use gelato as the base for ‘frullati’ (Italian-style milkshakes), or for ‘affogati’ (gelato drowned in coffee and/or liquors).

        As far as flavors go, as we were saying gelato can be of two main types: milk-based (creams – or ‘creme’ in Italian), or water-based (sorbet – or ‘sorbetto’ in Italian), which originated in southern Italy, but is available all throughout the country. Traditional cream gelato flavors include: fior di latte (a neutral gelato base), cioccolato (chocolate), vaniglia (vanilla – which, by the way, has an intense flavor and doesn’t mean flavorless!), stracciatella (fior di latte and chocolate shavings), nocciola (hazelnut), torroncino (from ‘torrone‘), caffè (coffee), pistacchio (pistachio). Newer flavors include Tiramisù and panna cotta (from the corresponding desserts). Traditional sorbets flavors include: limone (lemon), fragola (strawberry), pesca (peach), mango, and other fruits. It has to be noted that even the biggest and most popular gelaterie don’t usually have more than 50-60 flavors, the smaller ones only have 10-20 (a good turnaround is needed since gelato can’t be stored for too long and is usually produced overnight, directly on the premises).

        Restaurants also offer gelato as a dessert, either by itself or with fresh fruit. During formal dining, a sorbet is sometimes served as a palate cleanser in-between courses.

        Industrially made gelato can also be bought in supermarkets, though this type, slightly higher in fat, is stored at lower temperatures (to extend its shelf life), and needs to be taken out of the freezer ahead of time before being served.