Ravioli: the Food of Kings and Peasants

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The word ‘ravioli’ (plural of ‘raviolo’) refers to all kinds of filled Italian pasta where a thin layer of dough wraps around a filling (‘ripieno’, in Italian). Ravioli are either boiled and dished out with sauce (a popular first course) or served in broth (a classic dinner option, especially during winter). The pasta layer, generally egg-based and rolled into a thin sheet, serves as more than an enclosure – it overextends around the filling and binds with the sauces or gains flavor from the broth. Common fillings may include anything from meat, to cheese, to vegetables and vary greatly among the countless regional recipes. Special types of deep-fried sweet ravioli also exist, perpetuating a tradition that goes back to the earliest written documents on filled pasta.

The recipe book “Liber de Coquina” (Naples, end of 13th century) defines “torta” as a thick pie shell used as a sealed pot and not meant to be eaten. The torta was filled with a mixture of minced meat, grains, vegetables, and spices, and placed in the bread oven(1). Large and elaborate versions of the torta – made of multiple layers and decorated with plums – were served in important banquets, whereas simpler preparations were accessible to everybody.

Inspired by the idea behind the torta, pasta makers started to incorporate similar types of fillings into their pasta shapes. The word ‘tortello’ (small torta) was used to refer to the pasta enclosure, whereas the word ‘raviolo’ (probably from late Latin rabiòlæ) was generally used to refer to just the filling. In addition to being boiled and served with sauces, the savory-filled tortelli were also fried and served with sugar and honey(1).

As a testament to its ancient origins, filled pasta changes name and often also shape, size, and fillings based on the region of Italy. Here is a list of the most popular kinds:

    • Agnolotti (Piedmont, and other northern Italian regions) are made by layering two sheets of dough and cutting out a circle (a) or a square (b), or by folding a circle or square of dough in half (creating a half-circle shape (c) or a rectangle). If the folded agnolotti are pinched, they are called “al plin” (e). Agnolotti are usually relatively large (∅ 50 mm). The traditional Piedmontese style is filled with braised beef, ham, spinach, Parmigiano and egg, and served with the gravy from the beef or with butter (with optional sage or truffle) and Parmigiano(2).
Circular pasta cutter
  • Anolini (provinces of Parma and Piacenza) are medium-sized (∅ 40 mm) and generally round (a, in the picture below) or almost half-circle shaped (d), cut with a circular pasta cutter. Usually, anolini have meat-based fillings and are served in broth or with a sauce made from beef.
  • Cappelletti (Emilia-Romagna, but especially Romagna) are slightly larger than ‘tortellini’, about 30 mm in diameter. They are obtained by placing the filling in the middle of squares of pasta dough, then by folding the dough diagonally to form a triangle, and by wrapping it around a finger until the opposing corners overlap and can be pressed together (h). The name ‘cappelletti’ means small hats in Italian, from the resemblance of the finished product to small paper hats. The filling generally includes different kinds of meat (pork, veal, prosciutto) and Parmigiano. Cappelletti are normally had in chicken broth.
  • Casoncelli (Lombardy, and particularly Val Camonica, Bergamo, and Brescia) are medium-sized (∅ 40 mm), generally in the shape of a half-circle (c), or of a candy wrapper. The fillings used in casoncelli vary substantially based on the area in which they are made, even from town to town. The ones from Bergamo are filled with veal, sausage, raisins, spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper), Parmigiano, and breadcrumbs. They are generally served with melted butter (with optional ‘pancetta‘) and sage.
  • Fagottini or Sacchetti are a modern creation, their shape is obtained by closing squares of pasta dough to form small bags (i) around meat-based or vegetarian fillings.
  • Pansotti (Liguria) are quite large (∅ 50 mm) and made by cutting squares or circles of dough and folding them in half (c, f). The name means “big bellies” in Italian dialect. Traditionally, the Genoa-style pansotti are filled with ricotta, Parmigiano, endive, turnip, and garlic, and served with a sauce made with walnut, milk, and bread(2).
  • Ravioli (the whole of Italy) are usually square with a side of about 40 mm. They are made by layering one sheet of pasta dough, small lumps of filling, and another sheet of pasta dough. A common variety is filled with spinach, ricotta, and Parmigiano(2), a type of filling which is called ‘di magro’ (literally, “lean” in Italian). This name was introduced by the Catholics to indicate that the filling doesn’t contain meat and this dish is allowed to be consumed during Fridays in Lent. Another variety is the Neapolitan-style, filled with ricotta, Parmigiano, parsley, and egg, and generally served with tomato sauce and Parmigiano(2). Ravioli with meat or fish-based fillings are also popular.
  • Tortelli (all northern Italy) are commonly square and flat (b) with a side of 50 mm, but they may also be round (a), or half-circle shaped (c). In some cases, they may also look like big ‘tortellini’ (g). A famous kind of tortelli from Lombardy is ‘Tortelli con la Zucca’, filled with pumpkin, Parmigiano, bread crumbs, ground ‘amaretti’ (almond macaroons), and eggs, and usually served with butter and sage(2). Tuscan-style tortelli, instead, have a meat-base filling. Just like in Medieval times, sweet versions of tortelli also exist; nowadays, however, they tend to have more neutral fillings (e.g.: ricotta and cinnamon) and they are sometimes cooked in the oven instead of being fried in oil. A different kind of sweet tortelli is ‘Tortelli Cremaschi’ (from the city of Crema), which have a sweet filling, savory pasta dough, and savory serving sauce (butter and Parmigiano). The filling is made with ground ‘mostaccini’ (spiced hard cookies typical of Crema), ground ‘amaretti’, raisins, candied citron peel, lemon zest, egg, Parmigiano, Marsala liquor, nutmeg, and (optional) ground mint. This dish is served on special occasions and during the traditional mid-summer festival.
  • Tortellini (Emilia-Romagna, but especially Emilia and particularly the cities of Bologna and Modena) are quite small (∅ 20 mm) and have a shape similar to ‘cappelletti’ except that they are usually made starting from a circle of pasta instead of a square (g). The name is a diminutive of ‘tortelli’. The filling is usually meat-based (mortadella, prosciutto, veal, Parmigiano, egg(2)). Tortellini are commonly served with tomato sauce or in meat broth.
  • Tortelloni (northern Italy), are generally a larger version (∅ 30-40 mm) of tortellini (g) or cappelletti (h), but they may also be a larger version of the flat tortelli (b). Tortelloni may have several types of fillings, both meat-based and vegetarian. A well-known filling is mushroom-based (with porcini mushroom, ricotta, onion, Parmigiano), served with butter and sage(2).
Common shapes of Italian filled pasta

(1) “Italian Cuisine: A Cultural History” by Alberto Capatti and Massimo Montanari – Columbia University Press. ISBN: 978-0-231-12232-0
(2) “The Silver Spoon” – Phaidon Press. ISBN: 978-0-714-84531-9

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Bell Pepper Pasta

Italians rarely get tired of a good tomato sauce, but when they do they often resort to a tomato sauce variation. This recipe is based on the simple addition of roasted bell peppers, and of chili for some heat. The resulting sauce is great on pasta, but it also doubles as a tasty dip for toasted bread. The peppers are sliced, roasted in olive oil and then added to a tomato base. If the skins are unwanted or if a smoother texture is desired, the cooked peppers can be strained in a food mill.

Bell Pepper Pasta

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 40 minutes

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 35 minutes

Bell Pepper Pasta

Ingredients

  • 1 cup tomato sauce
  • 2 small bell peppers, red or yellow (seeded and sliced)
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • half of a fresh chili (minced) or 1 teaspoon of chili flakes
  • 140 g dried pasta (e.g.: farfalle, fusilli, rigatoni)
  • a sprinkle of Parmigiano (freshly grated, optional)
  • salt

Preparation

  1. In a non-stick pan, roast the pepper in olive oil along with the fresh chili (if using it) for 5 minutes at high.
  2. Lower the heat, add the chili flakes (if using them) and cook for 15 minutes covered, adjust the salt.
  3. Strain the peppers in a food mill.
  4. Collect the pulp and discard the skins.
  5. Put the pepper purée back in the non-stick pan and add the tomato sauce.
  6. Cook for another 5 minutes to blend the flavors.
  7. Meanwhile, boil the pasta in salty water for the time indicated on the box.
  8. When the pasta is ready, drain it and serve it with the sauce and a sprinkle of grated Parmigiano (optional).
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/08/bell-pepper-pasta.html

Pesto, Potatoes and Green Beans Pasta

This recipe describes a common variation of the classic pesto pasta. In Liguria, pesto pasta is often had along with potatoes and green beans, a hearty version sometimes called ‘enriched’ pesto.

Please see the Making Pesto in a Blender article for tips on how to make the pesto base simply and quickly.

Pesto, Potatoes and Green Beans Pasta

Yield: 4 servings

Total Time: 30 minutes

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Pesto, Potatoes and Green Beans Pasta

Ingredients

  • 1 russet potato (about 250 g in weight)
  • 150 g of green beans
  • 250 g of pasta (trofie is the most traditional, linguine or spaghetti are also common).

Preparation

  1. Dice the potato and cut the green beans in bite-size chunks (fig. 4).
  2. Drop the green beans in a large pot of salted boiling water, cook for 10 minutes (fig. 5a).
  3. Dried pasta generally takes the same cooking time as the diced potatoes (about 10 minutes). If using dried pasta, add it along with the potato (fig. 5b) and cook for the time indicated on the box. If using fresh pasta, start by adding the potatoes, boil for 7-8 minutes, then add the pasta and cook for another 2 or 3.
  4. Put a good tablespoon of pesto in each plate and dilute it with some of the pasta cooking water (fig. 5c).
  5. When the pasta and vegetables is ready, quickly drain it, pour it on top of the pesto (fig. 5d) and stir gently. Serve immediately.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/08/pesto-potatoes-and-green-beans-pasta.html

 

Tortiglioni all’Arrabbiata

Sugo* all’Arrabbiata is a classic pasta sauce from central/southern Italy that can be prepared very quickly, while the pasta cooks. This sauce is traditionally quite spicy, and this is at the origin of its name (all’arrabbiata, in Italian means ‘angry-style’). If desired, a milder version can be made, but a certain amount of heat is necessary to counter the acidity of the lightly cooked tomato and enhance its flavor. (*Sugo is another name for ‘salsa’, sauce.)

Tortiglioni all’Arrabbiata

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 20 minutes

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 10 minutes

Tortiglioni all’Arrabbiata

Ingredients

  • 500 g peeled diced tomatoes (fresh or from a quality can)
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 chili pepper (whole or seeded if a milder sauce is desired), minced
  • 2 cloves of garlic, minced
  • some fresh flat-leaf parsley, minced
  • 150 g dried short pasta (e.g.: tortiglioni, rigatoni, penne)
  • salt

Preparation

  1. Mince chili pepper and garlic (fig. 1).
  2. In a large non-stick pan, fry garlic and chili pepper in olive oil for 2 minutes (fig. 2).
  3. Add the diced tomatoes (fig. 3), cook at medium heat for 15 minutes stirring occasionally.
  4. Boil the pasta in plenty of salty water for the time indicated on the box.
  5. Add the well drained pasta to the pan and toss for 1 minute at high heat (fig. 4).
  6. Take off the heat, sprinkle with parsley, serve immediately.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/07/tortiglioni-allarrabbiata.html

Pasta Names Explained

In this atypical post, we will go over some of the most common pasta cuts and describe the origins of their names. We will use the following template:

Italian Name (Literal Translation)
Photograph* (photos are at scale)
[sounds like, the accent goes on the syllable in bold]

The root word that inspires the shape, to which a modifier is usually applied:
-ini/-ine – small;
-oni/-one – large;
-etti/-ette – little & cute.

Main use, e.g.:
dry – boiled in salty water, drained, and served with a sauce;
baked – (often) blanched, then baked in the oven;
broth – added to a soup or broth.

 

Bucatini (Little Hollowed Ones) Cannelloni (Big Cute Hoses)
[boo-ca-tee-nee]
from ‘bucato’ = holed, hollowed
– dry –
[can-nel-low-nee]
from ‘canna’ = hose
– baked –
Conchiglie (Shells) Farfalle (Butterflies)
[con-keel-yay]
from ‘conchiglia’ = shell
– dry, broth –
[far-fal-lay]
from ‘farfalla’ = butterfly
– dry –
Fettuccine (Small Ribbons) Filini (Little Threads)
[fay-too-chee-nay]
from ‘fettuccia’ = ribbon, tape
– dry –
[fee-lee-nee]
from ‘filo’ = thread, wire
– broth –
Fusilli (Little Spindles) Linguine (Small Tongues)
[foo-sil-lee]
from ‘fuso’ = spindle
– dry –
[ling-win-aye]
from ‘lingua’ = tongue
– dry –
Mezze Penne Rigate (Striped Half Quills) Orecchiette (Cute Little Ears)
[met-zay pen-aye ree-gah-tay]
from ‘penna’ = quill
– dry –
[o-ray-kee-ette-aye]
from ‘orecchio’ = ear
– dry –
Pennette Integrali (Small Whole-Wheat Quills) Rigatoni (Large Striped Ones)
[pen-ette-aye in-tay-gral-ee]
from ‘penna’ = quill
– dry –
[ree-gah-tow-nee]
from ‘rigato’ = ridged
– dry –
Rotini (Small Twirled Ones) Spaghettoni (Big Cute Twines)
[ro-tee-nee]
from ‘roteare’ = to twirl
– dry –
[spah-get-tow-nee]
from ‘spago’ = twine, string
– dry, broth (cut) –
Tortiglioni (Big Twisted Ones) Tubetti (Cute Little Tubes)
[tor-til-yo-nee]
from ‘ritorto’ = twisted
– dry –
[too-bet-tee]
from ‘tubo’ = tube
– broth –
* All photos © Quatro Fromaggio. All rights reserved.

Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino – The Staple Midnight Pasta

Aglio (pronounced ‘ah-llyo’), Olio e Peperoncino (Garlic, Oil and Chili Pepper) is one of the simplest and most popular Italian pasta sauces, and one of the most delicious. Its simplicity is unmatched for showcasing perfectly cooked, high-quality spaghetti, the cut of pasta that it best goes with. Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino is really more of a pasta dressing, rather than an actual sauce. And it’s perfect for when there is no time to make a sauce, for a midnight snack, or for unexpected guests.

Italian cuisine is based on quality – the more a dish is simple, the more it requires the best ingredients. And this is definitely the case with Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino.

Let’s start with the pasta: a typical serving of 70-80 grams per person of dried durum semolina spaghetti from a quality Italian brand (e.g.: Voiello, De Cecco, Barilla). It’s possible to use another cut of pasta – spaghetti could be replaced with linguine, but that’s pretty much as far as an Italian would push it. Definitely, short pasta wouldn’t be appropriate, and neither would egg noodles.

Even by sticking to spaghetti, most Italians have a preference of what thickness best suits this dish. Every brand has its own “units”, for instance in my family we’ve always preferred the thicker Barilla #7 (‘Spaghettoni’), whereas the most popular kind is the thinner #5.

Another fundamental choice that Italians make is whether or not to break the spaghetti in half before boiling them. Traditionally, pasta should never be cut – not before cooking it and especially never after it has been dished out. However, boiling 10 inch long noodles requires a particularly tall pot and breaking them in half may be practical.

As for the oil, extra virgin olive oil is a must for this dish. Other than being a vessel on which to carry the flavor of the pasta and the spiciness of the chilies, extra virgin olive oil brings its distinct aroma, which perfectly complements them.

The third and last ingredient, chili pepper, tops up the flavor profile with the simplest cooking trick: adding some heat! Any kind of chilies can be used, from a fresh cayenne pepper to dried flakes. It’s only important to get the desired amount of spiciness, which is usually medium-hot.

Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 15 minutes

Prep Time: 3 minutes

Cook Time: 12 minutes

Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino

Ingredients

  • 150 g high quality dried spaghetti
  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon dried chili flakes (or 1 fresh cayenne pepper*)
  • (optional) 2 tablespoons of freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano

Preparation

  1. Start boiling the pasta in "abundant salty water" (fig.1).
  2. In a small pan, warm up the olive oil at medium heat for a minute.
  3. Add the crushed garlic and let it fry until it turns golden-brown (fig. 2).
    *If using a fresh cayenne pepper, it should be seeded and roasted along with the garlic and then also removed.
  4. Turn off the heat, discard the garlic and add the chili flakes (fig. 3).
  5. As soon as the pasta is cooked "al dente", drain it in a colander and toss it back in the empty pot.
  6. Pour in the garlic chili oil, quickly stir and dish the pasta into serving bowls.
  7. If desired, add the grated Parmigiano Reggiano and serve immediately.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/04/spaghetti-aglio-olio-e-peperoncino.html

Cooking Pasta 101

In the Pasta 101 article we went through the different types of pasta and the Italian traditions around it. Let’s now talk some more on how to cook pasta, and particularly dry pasta (‘pastasciutta’).

Let’s start with quantities. How much is one serving of pasta? It depends on the yield. Raw dried pasta absorbs plenty of water as it cooks, easily doubling in weight. Uncooked fresh pasta is instead already moist and only gains moderate weight with cooking.

In Italy, the typical serving per person (of uncooked pasta) is:

  • 70-80g, for regular dried durum semolina pasta (‘pasta di semola di grano duro’);
  • 50-60g, for for dried egg noodles (‘pasta all’uovo’);
  • 80-100g, for fresh pasta (‘pasta fresca’).
60g of dried tortiglioni (left) turn into 120g when cooked (right).
60g of egg fettuccine (left) turn into 140g when cooked (right).

In any case, these amounts are very contained with respect to North American standards. This is because pasta is usually just the first course of a meal, and it’s served without a side and never with bread. The amounts of pasta get even smaller when the sauce that is going to be used is particularly rich.

Let’s now talk about the cooking process. Most recipes say the pasta should be boiled in abundant salty water. But what does that mean? How abundant is ‘abundant’ and how salty is ‘salty’? The correct proportions are:

  • 10g of salt for every liter of water (½ Tbsp of salt for 4 cups of water), and
  • at least 1 liter of water for every 100g of pasta (3 ½ oz of pasta).

It’s important to note that, despite common misconceptions, the amount of salt is not proportional to the amount of pasta! It’s proportional to the amount of water used. For example, when making pasta for 4 people (250g), it’s necessary to have at least 2.5 liters of water; and, for 2.5 liters of water, it’s necessary to have 2 tablespoons of salt. This may seem like a lot of salt, but the pasta will retain only a relatively small amount of it; the rest of the salt will stay in the water. Besides, salty water also increases the temperature at which the starches gelatinize, making the pasta less likely to stick to itself. By the way, adding table salt at the end on the cooked pasta is not equivalent to boiling the pasta in salty water, as it wouldn’t be able to reach the pasta’s core.

The best way to get the water ready for cooking pasta is to put the pot with unsalted tap water on the stove at maximum heat, covered with a lid. When the water reaches a full boil, the salt is added and should dissolve almost immediately in a burst of bubbles. While dissolving, the salt absorbs energy causing the boil to be interrupted, but only momentarily. The reason why it’s not recommended to put the salt right away in the cold water is that it will dissolve more slowly, resting on the bottom of the pot and, over time, causing some corrosion. Rock salt is normally used in Italy because it is less likely to lump together and because it’s cheaper.

When the salty water is fully boiling, the lid has to be removed and needs to stay off while cooking the pasta (or the water will start foaming and spill over). Even without the lid, the water should maintain a full boil. This is very important because it guarantees a constant temperature (around 100°C), necessary to cook pasta properly. At lower temperatures, the pasta would take longer to cook, absorb more water and become gummy. This unfortunately is unavoidable at high altitudes, for instance at 3000m water boils at 90°C. While it’s true that salt increases the boiling temperature, at typical concentrations it only increases it by 0.17°C, which is absolutely negligible.

It’s now time to “throw” in the pasta (from the Italian saying: ‘buttare la pasta’). Even though the bubbling movement of plenty of fully boiling and salty water is sufficient to keep the pasta separate and cook uniformly, it’s still important to stir the pasta for the first minute of cooking. Some sources suggest adding olive oil to the water to prevent sticking – this is generally unnecessary and actually not recommended as the pasta will be coated with grease and this will prevent the sauce from sticking to it.

How long does the pasta need to cook? For packed dried pasta, what’s written on the box (e.g. ‘cottura 10 minuti’) is a very good indication, starting the timer at the moment when the pasta is added to the boiling water. At ideal conditions (fully boiling water at low altitudes), the time given on the box produces “al dente” pasta, which is still moderately firm and offers some resistance to the bite. Even Italians may find this slightly undercooked, but it’s especially recommended for all those recipes that require the pasta to be tossed back in the pan along with the sauce (adding a couple of minutes to the cooking time). Fresh pasta cooks much more quickly than dried pasta (in the order of a few minutes, versus about 10). In any case, it’s a good idea to taste the pasta before or at its cooking time to ensure it’s cooked properly.

As soon as the pasta is ready, it has to be rapidly drained in a colander, making sure to leave a small amount of the cooking water for extra moisture and also to help the sauce adhere to the pasta thanks to the dissolved starch. Pasta boilers with embedded colanders (where the pasta cooks directly into a colander which fits completely within the pot) can be very practical, but they are regularly used only in professional kitchens.

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Pasta with Gorgonzola

This quick and versatile recipe is another great representative of the cuisine of northern Italy. With any kind of strong, creamy cheese and a handful of always-ready ingredients, this delicious sauce can be whipped together from scratch in minutes. In Italy, there is absolutely no Alfredo sauce! The most famous dish that makes use of a creamy cheese sauce is ‘Gnocchi al Gorgonzola‘, but any kind of pasta can be used – and boxed dried pasta is actually recommended for this dish.

Pasta with Gorgonzola

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 20 minutes

Pasta with Gorgonzola

Ingredients

  • 10 g butter (1 tablespoon)
  • 10 g water (1 tablespoon)
  • 10 g flour (1 tablespoon)
  • 100 g milk (½ cup)
  • some ground nutmeg
  • some ground black pepper
  • salt
  • 40 g Gorgonzola, Cambozola, or other blue cheese
  • One handful of crushed walnuts, pecans or pine nuts
  • 20 g grated Parmigiano
  • 140 g dried pasta. In the picture above you can see whole-wheat 'penne', but any dried pasta or fresh gnocchi can be used. Ricotta and spinach, or cheese ravioli also work very well with this sauce.

Preparation

  1. Put butter and water in a saucepan at medium heat.
  2. When butter has melted, add the flour.
  3. Stir until it sizzles.
  4. Gradually add the milk, stirring constantly. Bring to a boil. Add the nutmeg.
  5. Add the walnuts, the Gorgonzola, the Parmigiano, and adjust with salt and pepper.
  6. Cook the pasta "al dente", then drain it and put it back in the pan adding the cheese sauce. Mix well and serve in pre-heated bowls.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/02/pasta-with-gorgonzola.html

Pizzoccheri della Valtellina

Pizzoccheri is a Northern Italian dish almost unknown in North America. It originates in Valtellina (known as Valtelline or Val Telline in English), a valley at the very top of Lombardy.

Despite the name, Pizzoccheri has nothing to do with pizza. It is a first course centered around a special pasta made of buckwheat flour, a type of grain also called Saracen corn (‘grano Saraceno’ in Italian). The recognizable hearty flavor and coarse texture of buckwheat pasta are almost absent from Italian cuisine, but they marry perfectly with potatoes, cabbage, butter, and Valtellina Casera cheese (also indigenous of Valtellina) to make a unique dish.

As detailed by its official website, Valtellina Casera is a medium-ripening, semi-cooked PDO cheese (see the ‘Formaggio Cheese’ post for more information on cheese classification) exclusively produced in Valtellina and made with partly skimmed cow milk. For the preparation of Pizzoccheri, Valtellina Casera is used when just over its minimum aging of 70 days while its flavor is delicate and milky and before it turns more intense.

In Italy, dried buckwheat pasta specifically cut for use in Pizzoccheri can be bought in stores. However, it can also be easily made from scratch without particular equipment.

Pizzoccheri della Valtellina

Yield: 2-3 servings

Total Time: 45 minutes

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Pizzoccheri della Valtellina

Ingredients

     For 200 g of fresh Pizzoccheri noodles

    • 100 g buckwheat flour
    • 50 g white all-purpose flour
    • 1/8 tsp salt

     For the finished dish

    • 200 g fresh Pizzoccheri noodles (the same amount of dried Pizzoccheri can also be used).
    • 250 g potatoes (2 small, diced).
    • 150 g Savoy cabbage (sliced). For a more delicate flavor, it can be replaced or mixed with spinach.
    • 100 g Valtellina Casera cheese (thinly sliced). It can be replaced with other, easier to find, mild semi-cooked cheeses (such as young Fontina, Montasio, Raclette or Gouda).
    • 20 g Parmigiano cheese (grated).
    • 50 g unsalted butter.
    • 3 cloves of garlic (crushed).
    • 2 or 3 leaves of fresh sage (optional).
    • Salt and black pepper.

    Preparation

       For the Pizzoccheri noodles

      1. Mix the buckwheat flour with the white flour and the salt.
      2. Work in about 1/3 cup of water, just enough for a firm dough to form. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
      3. Roll the dough into a sheet 2-3 millimeters thick.
      4. Cut the sheet into small rectangles of about 0.5 by 5 cm.
      5. Using a spatula, separate the rectangles from the cutting board.
      6. Place the pieces on a floured plate (sprinkling with more flour before overlapping them).

       For the finished dish

      1. Bring a very large pot of salted water to a boil (using ½ tablespoon of salt per liter of water).
      2. Add the potatoes and the cabbage to the boiling water.
      3. Let the vegetables cook for 12-13 minutes (5 minutes if using dried pasta).
      4. Toss the (uncooked) pasta into the boiling water and keep cooking for another 2-3 minutes (10 minutes if using dried pasta).
      5. Meanwhile, melt the butter with the garlic and the sage in it; roast them until the garlic is golden, then discard both.
      6. Drain the pasta and vegetables mix removing it from the top by using a skimmer not to disturb the cloudy water.
      7. At this point start assembling the dish directly into individual bowls. Start layering the ingredients alternating some of the pasta and vegetables with a sprinkle of Parmigiano, a few cheese slices and some melted butter. Repeat 2 or 3 times using up all of the ingredients, ending with a layer of pasta and vegetables and a sprinkle of Parmigiano.
      8. Add some black pepper and serve without stirring.

      Notes

      A vegetable mincer can be used to make parallel cuts.

      https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/01/pizzoccheri-della-valtellina.html

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