Rice and Parsley (Ris e Erburin)

Having some more Italian (flat-leaf) parsley in my fridge, not an easy find in Vancouver, and looking for something quick to make for dinner, I naturally went back to my childhood for a dish where parsley is the absolute star of the show: a simple soup of rice and parsley. I remember very well my grandma making this dish in the summer, especially when there was a storm approaching and the parsley in the orchard had to be cut quickly so that it wouldn’t get mangled by the rain.

Like for most northern Italian preparations (Pizzoccheri, for instance), this dish is almost unknown outside of its region of origin. For this reason, for the first time in this blog, I decided to mention in the title the dish’s name in Lombard dialect: “ris” (rice, or “riso” in Italian) “e” (and) “erburin” (literally ‘little herbs’, referring to parsley, or “prezzemolo” in Italian). Certainly, that’s how my grandma called it!

This soup can definitely be considered an example of Cucina Povera (“Cuisine of the Poor”) for it simplicity and its affordable ingredients. However, the version that I’m illustrating below (adapted from SaleDolce) is slightly more “decadent” thanks to the generous use of Parmigiano and of butter.

Rice and Parsley (Ris e Erburin)

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Rice and Parsley (Ris e Erburin)

Ingredients

  • 3 cups light meat stock or flavorful vegetables and herbs stock
  • ½ cup Carnaroli rice (other medium-grain rices can also be used)
  • 1 ½ oz Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
  • ¾ oz unsalted butter
  • 1 bunch of fresh Italian (flat-leaf), parsley (should yield over 1 oz of leaves)

Preparation

  1. Bring the stock to a boil, then cook the rice for 15 minutes at medium-low heat.
  2. Wash and dry the parsley, then rip off the leaves and finely mince them.
  3. When the rice is ready, take it off the heat and stir in the butter, Parmigiano and parsley.
  4. Mix gently and serve in bowls, optionally sprinkled with more grated Parmigiano.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/09/rice-and-parsley-ris-e-erburin.html

 

Egg and Smoked Scamorza Pasta – A Carbonara-Inspired Vegetarian Dish

This vegetarian dish is inspired by the renowned Carbonara. I would not call it “Vegetarian Carbonara” though, as there is no such thing in Italy. If you are interested in the original Roman dish, many Cannolo Award winners have recipes for it, including Memorie di Angelina’s Spaghetti alla carbonara.

Aside from how it should be called, the dish that I’m presenting is absolutely delicious and fun to eat. Just like for Carbonara, the main execution difficulty is to find the right moisture balance: allow the eggs to firm up “just enough” and not more!

Egg and Smoked Scamorza Pasta

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Egg and Smoked Scamorza Pasta

Ingredients

  • 140 g spaghetti or other long dried pasta
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 100 g (3 ½ oz) smoked scamorza (or smoked provolone), thinly diced
  • 3 Tbsp Parmigiano, grated
  • 1 Tbsp unsalted butter
  • 2 cloves garlic, sliced
  • Black pepper, freshly ground
  • Salt

Preparation

  1. Prepare the ingredients (1), then start boiling the pasta in salted water for the time indicated on the box.
  2. Lightly beat the eggs with the Parmigiano (2).
  3. Roast the garlic in the butter at low heat for 5 minutes (3), then discard the garlic.
  4. When the pasta is "al dente," drain it quickly then toss it back in the pot along with the garlic-flavored butter. Turn on the heat at low. Stir gently.
  5. Add the beaten eggs and cheese, then continue to stir, scraping the bottom of the pan, until the eggs start to firm up (4). It's important to keep the eggs partly runny, as they will continue to cook in the bowls after being served.
  6. Serve immediately covered with the smoked scamorza and some black pepper. The heat of the pasta will soften the cheese and melt it slightly.
https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/05/egg-and-smoked-scamorza-pasta.html

Summer Minestra

For a summer meal, soup is probably not the first thing that comes to mind. But it’s in the summer that we have the best local vegetables and that the body needs fewer calories and more hydration. A soup can actually make for a great summer dish, especially if served lukewarm.

This recipe is for a ‘minestra di verdure’, a soup of unstrained vegetables (and legumes), which can optionally contain pasta or rice. The well known ‘minestrone’ is just a kind of minestra, usually richer and thicker. In a ‘passato di verdura‘, instead, the vegetables are strained after cooking, either by hand or by using a food mill. The term ‘zuppa’ generically refers to any kind of soup, including broths.

Soups are considered by many as the simplest dishes to make, but making a good soup is not trivial. The ingredients have to be balanced, bringing the right amounts of sweet, salty and sour to the dish, and the right amount of fats. In a minestra, the texture and the appearance are also important – the ingredients need to remain distinct despite the prolonged cooking necessary for the flavor to develop.

Italian soups are sometimes served with a sprinkle of Parmigiano, or with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, and they may be accompanied by ‘crostini di pane’ (bread croutons).

Minestre can be made of countless vegetables and legumes combinations. Here is the recipe for the minestra in the picture above.

Summer Minestra

Yield: 4 servings

Total Time: 2 hours, 20 minutes

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Cook Time: 2 hours

Summer Minestra

Ingredients

  • 1 Tbsp olive oil
  • ½ onion, sliced
  • 1 carrot, finely diced
  • 2 sticks celery, finely diced
  • 3 or 4 leaves kale, coarsely sliced (a good replacement for 'cavolo nero')
  • 3 or 4 leaves cabbage, coarsely sliced
  • 2 small potatoes, diced
  • 3 Roma tomatoes, diced
  • 4 cups water
  • salt and pepper
  • 4 slices of hard crust bread, toasted and sliced

Preparation

  1. Stir fry the onion, carrot and the celery in olive oil at medium heat for 10 minutes until tender.
  2. Add the water, the kale, the cabbage, the potatoes and the tomatoes. Bring to a boil, then cover with a lid and lower the heat.
  3. Cook for a couple of hours, stirring from time to time. Ensure that the minestra simmers slowly and doesn't over-boil.
  4. Adjust salt and pepper to taste.
  5. Serve with bread croutons and a drizzle of olive oil (optional).

Notes

For a more filling minestra, 10-15 minutes before it's ready, add 80 grams (3 oz) of rice or small pasta (ditalini, quadretti, stelline, avemarie or regular spaghetti cut in small pieces) and ensure a steady boil.

https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/05/summer-minestra.html

 

Two Kinds of Crostini: Cannellini and Radicchio

Crostini (plural of: ‘crostino’, from bread crust) are rustic appetizers where toasted bread slices are used as a base for various toppings. In a way, a ‘bruschetta‘ can be considered a kind of crostino, but it’s generally not seen that way because of its stronger identity. Crostini may be also served as a snack or to accompany an aperitivo.

Most crostini share the same kind of base: a toasted bread slice, with fresh garlic and extra virgin olive oil. Countless toppings can then be added to this already delicious support. Here you will find the recipes for two of the most traditional ones: cannellini spread and stewed radicchio, both of which can be served either cold or warm.

Cannellini spread
The first topping is based on cannellini, a kind of white beans with a very thin skin, delicate flavor and a starchy texture. Cannellini are also used to thicken soups and in the famous Pasta e Fagioli.

Stewed Radicchio
The second topping is based on radicchio, an Italian vegetable that belongs to the same family of chicory, escarole, and Belgian endive, and with which it shares a bitter flavor. To counter the bitterness, radicchio is often generously salted and/or paired up with salty cheese (especially Parmigiano).

Two Kinds of Crostini: Cannellini and Radicchio

Yield: 8-10 crostini

Total Time: 30 minutes

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 20 minutes

Two Kinds of Crostini: Cannellini and Radicchio

Ingredients

     Base ingredients

    • 8-10 slices of ciabatta or baguette, toasted
    • 1 garlic clove, pealed
    • Some extra virgin olive oil

     Cannellini spread

    • 1 Tbsp olive oil
    • 1 garlic clove, mashed
    • 1 sprig of rosemary, finely sliced
    • 1 can of cannellini (~400g), drained
    • salt and pepper
    • 1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

     Stewed radicchio

    • 1 Tbsp olive oil
    • 1 big shallot, thinly sliced
    • 1 radicchio, sliced
    • 2 Tbsp red wine
    • salt and pepper
    • 1 Tbsp of Parmigiano, coarsely grated or slivered

    Preparation

       Base preparation

      1. Toast or char-grill the bread making sure it doesn't dry out completely.
      2. Rub each slice with the garlic (the roughness of the toasted bread will act as a scraper).
      3. Drizzle with the olive oil.

       Cannellini spread

      1. Roast the garlic in the olive oil until golden.
      2. Add the rosemary and the cannellini.
      3. Cook for 5-10 minutes.
      4. Mash the beans coarsely by using a fork.
      5. Adjust salt and pepper.
      6. Spread on the crostini and then drizzle with balsamic vinegar.

       Stewed radicchio

      1. Roast the shallot in olive oil for a couple of minutes.
      2. Add the radicchio and keep roasting for 2 more minutes.
      3. Add the wine and allow it to evaporate.
      4. Lower the heat and cook for 5-10 minutes or until the radicchio softens.
      5. Adjust salt and pepper.
      6. Place on the crostini and then sprinkle with Parmigiano.
      https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/05/two-kinds-of-crostini-cannellini-and.html

       

      Handmade Tagliolini with Mushrooms

      Most Italians would be perfectly happy to eat pasta every day, and some probably do! Everyday pasta is normally dried durum pasta, delicious when of good quality and properly cooked, and also convenient as it can be stored for months in the cupboard. Fresh pasta, on the other hand, is generally regarded as more sophisticated, and it’s more likely to be found on restaurant menus. This recipe describes how to make ‘tagliolini’ from scratch without a pasta machine, and then serve it with a simple wine mushroom sauce. ‘Tagliolini’ is a kind of ‘tagliatelle,’ and is similarly named from the verb ‘tagliare,’ to cut.

      Fresh pasta has a different texture and flavor than dried pasta also because of the different ingredients. Eggs are frequently added (most fresh pasta is labeled: ‘pasta all’uovo’) and all-purpose flour is often used instead of durum wheat flour. This is especially true when fresh pasta is made by hand since durum flour is harder to work into shape.

      Handmade Tagliolini with Mushrooms

      Yield: 2 servings

      Total Time: 1 hour

      Prep Time: 45 minutes

      Cook Time: 15 minutes

      Handmade Tagliolini with Mushrooms

      Ingredients

         For the tagliolini

        • 100 g (3/4 cup) of flour
        • 1 egg
        • a pinch of salt (1/16 of a tsp)

         For the mushroom sauce

        • 2 cloves of garlic, each peeled and cut into 2 or 3 pieces
        • 5 or 6 medium-sized cremini mushrooms, sliced
        • 2 Tablespoons olive oil
        • a splash of white wine
        • 1/2 cup of double-cream
        • salt & pepper

         For the plating

        • 1/8 cup grated Parmigiano
        • a handful of Italian parsley leaves, minced
        • black pepper, ground

        Preparation

           For the tagliolini

          1. Using your hands, mix the ingredients together (2).
          2. Add just enough warm water (2 o 3 teaspoons) to form a compact, hard ball.
          3. Kneed for a couple of minutes (3).
          4. Have the dough rest, covered in plastic wrap, for 30 minutes at room temperature.
          5. As the dough rests, start bringing a large pot of salty water to a boil (see Cooking Pasta 101) and prepare the sauce.

           For the mushroom sauce

          1. Roast the garlic in the olive oil at medium heat (a) until golden.
          2. Add the cremini mushrooms. Roast them until they soften and start to release some liquid (b).
          3. Add a splash of white wine and wait until it evaporates fully.
          4. Remove the garlic and add the cream. Season with salt and simmer for a few minutes (c).
          5. Turn off the heat and put a lid on the pan to keep the sauce warm and moist.
          6. Mince the parsley and grate the Parmigiano in preparation for the plating.
          7. Unwrap the dough and proceed to roll and cut the tagliolini as shown in the video below.

           To complete the dish

          1. Warm up the sauce adding some pasta water to rehydrate it if necessary.
          2. Boil the pasta for 2 minutes stirring gently (it'll start floating in about a minute).
          3. Drain the pasta quickly and toss it into the pan with the sauce. Mix gently.
          4. Serve in bowls, sprinkle with Parmigiano, parsley, and some ground black pepper.
          5. Enjoy!
          https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/03/handmade-mushroom-tagliolini.html

          Note: This traditional technique makes use of the rolling pin to stretch the dough, as opposed to just pressing it. This process takes a bit of time to master, but it’s easy when making a small batch of noodles. Preparations like ravioli and tortellini are a lot harder to do by hand because they require a thinner dough.

          Egg Pasta with Green Beans and Mushrooms

          The combination of green beans and mushrooms makes for a vegetarian recipe with amazing depth of flavor. The earthiness of the mushrooms perfectly marries with the green beans, which also add texture to the dish. But the secret star of the show is the wine – its complex aroma is essential to bring all the flavors together.

          This all-season sauce can be prepared relatively quickly, almost while the pasta cooks, and makes for a satisfying dish that is also beautiful to serve.

          Egg Pasta with Green Beans and Mushrooms

          Yield: 2 servings

          Total Time: 25 minutes

          Prep Time: 10 minutes

          Cook Time: 15 minutes

          Egg Pasta with Green Beans and Mushrooms

          Ingredients

          • 125 g (4 ½ oz) fresh or dried egg pasta (e.g.: pappardelle, tagliatelle, fettuccine)
          • 100 g (3 ½ oz) green beans
          • 150 g (5 ½ oz) mushrooms (e.g.: fresh porcini, oyster, crimini), sliced
          • 1 clove of garlic, finely minced
          • ½ of a small onion, sliced
          • 2 Tbsp olive oil
          • 1 cup vegetable stock, warmed up
          • 1 cup half and half (10% fat cream)
          • ½ glass dry white wine
          • 2 Tbsp Parmigiano Reggiano, shaved
          • Salt and pepper

          Preparation

          1. Shave the green beans using a sharp potato peeler. This preparation is essential for the recipe as it tenderizes the green beans, while preserving their crunchiness.
          2. In a frying pan, sauté the green beans in olive oil for a couple of minutes at high temperature (1-2).
          3. Add the vegetable stock and let the green beans stew for 10 minutes at medium heat (3).
          4. Meanwhile, in a second frying pan, sauté onions and garlic in olive oil for a couple of minutes at high (4).
          5. Add the mushrooms and cook for 5 minutes at medium heat until tender.
          6. Add the white wine and let it evaporate completely (5).
          7. Add the cream and let it reduce for 5 minutes at low temperature (6).
          8. Merge everything into a single pan, mix and simmer for a few more minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
          9. Boil the egg pasta in plenty of salty water (see Cooking Pasta 101 for all the ins and outs), then drain it briefly and add it to the sauce mixing well for about 1 minute. Serve with some shaved Parmigiano.
          https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/02/egg-pasta-with-green-beans-and.html

          Canederli, the Italian Knödel

          Canederli are bread dumplings only found in the north-east of Italy (Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli, and part of Veneto), where they are served as a first course or as a main entree. Variations of this dish are common in all south-eastern Europe, where they are also served as an accompaniment to meat stews and roasts. The word ‘canederlo’, in fact, derives from the German and Austrian ‘knödel’ (dumpling).

          Canederli can be considered part of ‘cucina povera’ (cuisine of the poor), as they are made of simple and inexpensive ingredients: stale bread moistened with milk and bound with eggs and a small amount of flour. However, the mixture is often enriched with cheese and Speck (a kind of smoked prosciutto also local to the north-east regions of Italy).

          There are several variations of this regional dish, the following recipe describes one of the most common: filled with cheese. Once the dumplings are prepared and boiled, they are either served “dry” with melted butter or in broth.

          Check out the latest episode of Thoughts on the Table, the podcast on food and food culture. Also available on iTunes and Google Play Music.

          Canederli, the Italian Knödel

          Yield: 4-5 servings

          Total Time: 2 hours, 20 minutes

          Prep Time: 2 hours

          Cook Time: 20 minutes

          #Canederli, the Italian Knödel

          Ingredients

             For the dumplings

            • 300 g (10 oz) stale bread, diced (which can be obtained by dicing 450 g of fresh bread and laying it on a perforated tray for 24-48 hours, covered with a tea towel) - it's important that the bread is fully dried out and crunchy
            • 225 ml (1 scant cup) milk
            • 3 eggs, lightly beaten
            • 60 g (½ cup) white flour
            • 3 Tbsp (minced) flat leaf (Italian) parsley
            • 200 g (7 oz) cheese, e.g.: Fontina, Raclette (smoked or plain), or Gouda (smoked or plain), diced
            • 45 g (3 Tbsp) unsalted butter
            • 1 ½ Tbsp olive oil
            • 1 onion, finely chopped
            • ½ tsp salt
            • ¼ tsp pepper
            • ¼ tsp nutmeg
            • 3 liters (12 cups) of vegetable stock (for boiling)

             To serve them "dry"

            • 20 g (1 ½ Tbsp) (per serving) unsalted butter
            • 10 g (2 tsp) (per serving) grated Parmigiano
            • 1 small bunch of chives, thinly sliced

             To serve them in broth

            • 1 cup (per serving) additional vegetable stock
            • Some grated Parmigiano
            • Some chives, thinly sliced (optional)

            Preparation

            1. Put the stale bread into a large mixing bowl (1). Add the milk (2), the eggs (3), as well as salt, pepper and nutmeg.
            2. Mix well and let it rest for at least two hours, covered with a tea towel, in a cool place or in the fridge. Stir occasionally to ensure that the mix absorbs the liquid uniformly.
            3. After the two hours, add the flour (4), then the parsley (5), and the cheese (6). Mix gently.
            4. Finely chop the onion (7) and fry it in oil and butter for ten minutes at medium heat, stirring occasionally.
            5. Let the onion cool (8), then incorporate it into the mix (9).
            6. Let the mixture rest for another half-hour covered with a tea towel. It should look uniformly moist and slightly sticky.
            7. Using your hands, form the canederli by pressing together enough of the mix to make balls the size of a small orange (60 to 80 grams each). You should be able produce 14-16 balls out of the entire mix.
            8. After making each ball, roll it in flour to seal the outside and prevent the canederli from sticking to each other (10).
            9. When all the canederli are ready, re-roll them into flour and compress them a second time (11).
            10. Have the vegetable stock in a large pot, well boiling on the stove.
            11. Place the canederli gently in the pot (12-13), wait until the boil is resumed (14).
            12. Boil the canederli for 12-15 minutes (they will be floating the whole time), then drain them gently.
            13. If serving the canederli "dry", warm up the butter just enough to melt it. Place 3 canederli into each plate, pour the melted butter on them, then sprinkle with some thin-sliced chives, a generous amount of grated Parmigiano, and some freshly ground black pepper.

            Notes

            Note: once boiled, the canederli can be stored in the fridge for up to 3 days, or in the freezer for up to 2 weeks.

            If serving the canederli in broth, prepare more vegetable stock (as the one used for boiling will be cloudy because of the flour). Place one or two canederli into each bowl, then pour the broth on them. Finish with some grated Parmigiano and (optional) chives.

            https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/01/canederli-italian-knodel.html

            More featured recipes

            Baked Shells Pasta with Ricotta and Spinach

            As mentioned in the Pasta 101 article, baked pasta has an important role in Italian cuisine. For this cooking style, larger cuts of pasta are layered or stuffed with filling and baked in a pan along with a sauce. The most known examples are lasagna (sheets of egg noodles, layered with Bolognese sauce and Parmigiano), and cannelloni (pasta tubes with ricotta and spinach or meat filling, covered in béchamel and/or tomato sauce). Baked shells pasta, however, would come in at the third place 🙂

            Baked pasta dishes can be made with either dried or fresh pasta. When dried pasta is used, it often needs to be partially pre-cooked by boiling it briefly in salted water. For big cuts like lasagna sheets or cannelloni, this is quite time-consuming as the pieces need to be cooked a few at a time or they tend to stick to each other. Alternatively, “oven-ready” pasta can be put directly into the oven as long as the sauce is sufficiently watery (the excess moisture will be absorbed by the pasta as it cooks). Fresh pasta never needs pre-boiling.

            To ensure proper cooking, it’s often recommended to cover the baking pan tightly with tinfoil, and then remove it part way through the cooking. This is especially necessary when using oven-ready pasta.

            Texture-wise, baked pasta is very different from boiled pasta. Because of the prolonged cooking times and the higher temperatures reached in the oven, the parts that are covered in sauce turn softer, and those that are exposed to the air become gummier or even crunchy. These modifications and the blending between the pasta and the sauce and filling result in a completely different pasta experience.

            Unlike boiled pasta, baked pasta reheats very well – and reheating sometimes even helps develop more flavor (some Italians purposely bake their lasagna the day before!)

            Baked Shells Pasta with Ricotta and Spinach

            Yield: 4-6 servings

            Total Time: 1 hour, 20 minutes

            Prep Time: 40 minutes

            Cook Time: 40 minutes

            Baked Shells Pasta with Ricotta and Spinach

            Ingredients

            • 250 g quality, dried conchiglioni (big shells)
            • 300 g fresh spinach (frozen spinach can also be used)
            • 500 g fresh ricotta
            • 700 g strained tomatoes
            • 50 g heavy cream
            • 100 g Parmigiano
            • 1 egg
            • 20 g unsalted butter
            • salt and pepper

            Preparation

            1. Cook the spinach in a large pot, covered with a lid, at medium-high heat, without any water for 5-8 minutes.
            2. If using frozen spinach, just thaw them and heat them up.
            3. Mix ricotta, egg, Parmigiano, plus some salt and pepper.
            4. Then add the cooked spinach, chopped and squeezed, and mix.
            5. Meanwhile, boil the pasta in salty water for 2/3 of the cooking time on the box. If using fresh pasta, skip this step.
            6. Drain and let the pasta cool off on a towel, then stuff every shell with a tablespoon of filling. Lay them on the baking pan previously coated with butter.
            7. Mix the strained tomatoes with the heavy cream and some salt, then pour on the pasta. Add the butter in small chunks.
            8. Bake for 30 minutes at 350 °F (180 °C) covered in tin foil, then for another 10 uncovered. Serve with a sprinkle of Parmigiano.
            https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/10/baked-shells-pasta-with-ricotta-and.html

            Ravioli: the Food of Kings and Peasants

            Check out the latest episode of Thoughts on the Table, the podcast on food and food culture. Also available on iTunes and Google Play Music.

            The word ‘ravioli’ (plural of ‘raviolo’) refers to all kinds of filled Italian pasta where a thin layer of dough wraps around a filling (‘ripieno’, in Italian). Ravioli are either boiled and dished out with sauce (a popular first course) or served in broth (a classic dinner option, especially during winter). The pasta layer, generally egg-based and rolled into a thin sheet, serves as more than an enclosure – it overextends around the filling and binds with the sauces or gains flavor from the broth. Common fillings may include anything from meat, to cheese, to vegetables and vary greatly among the countless regional recipes. Special types of deep-fried sweet ravioli also exist, perpetuating a tradition that goes back to the earliest written documents on filled pasta.

            The recipe book “Liber de Coquina” (Naples, end of 13th century) defines “torta” as a thick pie shell used as a sealed pot and not meant to be eaten. The torta was filled with a mixture of minced meat, grains, vegetables, and spices, and placed in the bread oven(1). Large and elaborate versions of the torta – made of multiple layers and decorated with plums – were served in important banquets, whereas simpler preparations were accessible to everybody.

            Inspired by the idea behind the torta, pasta makers started to incorporate similar types of fillings into their pasta shapes. The word ‘tortello’ (small torta) was used to refer to the pasta enclosure, whereas the word ‘raviolo’ (probably from late Latin rabiòlæ) was generally used to refer to just the filling. In addition to being boiled and served with sauces, the savory-filled tortelli were also fried and served with sugar and honey(1).

            As a testament to its ancient origins, filled pasta changes name and often also shape, size, and fillings based on the region of Italy. Here is a list of the most popular kinds:

              • Agnolotti (Piedmont, and other northern Italian regions) are made by layering two sheets of dough and cutting out a circle (a) or a square (b), or by folding a circle or square of dough in half (creating a half-circle shape (c) or a rectangle). If the folded agnolotti are pinched, they are called “al plin” (e). Agnolotti are usually relatively large (∅ 50 mm). The traditional Piedmontese style is filled with braised beef, ham, spinach, Parmigiano and egg, and served with the gravy from the beef or with butter (with optional sage or truffle) and Parmigiano(2).
            Circular pasta cutter
            • Anolini (provinces of Parma and Piacenza) are medium-sized (∅ 40 mm) and generally round (a, in the picture below) or almost half-circle shaped (d), cut with a circular pasta cutter. Usually, anolini have meat-based fillings and are served in broth or with a sauce made from beef.
            • Cappelletti (Emilia-Romagna, but especially Romagna) are slightly larger than ‘tortellini’, about 30 mm in diameter. They are obtained by placing the filling in the middle of squares of pasta dough, then by folding the dough diagonally to form a triangle, and by wrapping it around a finger until the opposing corners overlap and can be pressed together (h). The name ‘cappelletti’ means small hats in Italian, from the resemblance of the finished product to small paper hats. The filling generally includes different kinds of meat (pork, veal, prosciutto) and Parmigiano. Cappelletti are normally had in chicken broth.
            • Casoncelli (Lombardy, and particularly Val Camonica, Bergamo, and Brescia) are medium-sized (∅ 40 mm), generally in the shape of a half-circle (c), or of a candy wrapper. The fillings used in casoncelli vary substantially based on the area in which they are made, even from town to town. The ones from Bergamo are filled with veal, sausage, raisins, spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper), Parmigiano, and breadcrumbs. They are generally served with melted butter (with optional ‘pancetta‘) and sage.
            • Fagottini or Sacchetti are a modern creation, their shape is obtained by closing squares of pasta dough to form small bags (i) around meat-based or vegetarian fillings.
            • Pansotti (Liguria) are quite large (∅ 50 mm) and made by cutting squares or circles of dough and folding them in half (c, f). The name means “big bellies” in Italian dialect. Traditionally, the Genoa-style pansotti are filled with ricotta, Parmigiano, endive, turnip, and garlic, and served with a sauce made with walnut, milk, and bread(2).
            • Ravioli (the whole of Italy) are usually square with a side of about 40 mm. They are made by layering one sheet of pasta dough, small lumps of filling, and another sheet of pasta dough. A common variety is filled with spinach, ricotta, and Parmigiano(2), a type of filling which is called ‘di magro’ (literally, “lean” in Italian). This name was introduced by the Catholics to indicate that the filling doesn’t contain meat and this dish is allowed to be consumed during Fridays in Lent. Another variety is the Neapolitan-style, filled with ricotta, Parmigiano, parsley, and egg, and generally served with tomato sauce and Parmigiano(2). Ravioli with meat or fish-based fillings are also popular.
            • Tortelli (all northern Italy) are commonly square and flat (b) with a side of 50 mm, but they may also be round (a), or half-circle shaped (c). In some cases, they may also look like big ‘tortellini’ (g). A famous kind of tortelli from Lombardy is ‘Tortelli con la Zucca’, filled with pumpkin, Parmigiano, bread crumbs, ground ‘amaretti’ (almond macaroons), and eggs, and usually served with butter and sage(2). Tuscan-style tortelli, instead, have a meat-base filling. Just like in Medieval times, sweet versions of tortelli also exist; nowadays, however, they tend to have more neutral fillings (e.g.: ricotta and cinnamon) and they are sometimes cooked in the oven instead of being fried in oil. A different kind of sweet tortelli is ‘Tortelli Cremaschi’ (from the city of Crema), which have a sweet filling, savory pasta dough, and savory serving sauce (butter and Parmigiano). The filling is made with ground ‘mostaccini’ (spiced hard cookies typical of Crema), ground ‘amaretti’, raisins, candied citron peel, lemon zest, egg, Parmigiano, Marsala liquor, nutmeg, and (optional) ground mint. This dish is served on special occasions and during the traditional mid-summer festival.
            • Tortellini (Emilia-Romagna, but especially Emilia and particularly the cities of Bologna and Modena) are quite small (∅ 20 mm) and have a shape similar to ‘cappelletti’ except that they are usually made starting from a circle of pasta instead of a square (g). The name is a diminutive of ‘tortelli’. The filling is usually meat-based (mortadella, prosciutto, veal, Parmigiano, egg(2)). Tortellini are commonly served with tomato sauce or in meat broth.
            • Tortelloni (northern Italy), are generally a larger version (∅ 30-40 mm) of tortellini (g) or cappelletti (h), but they may also be a larger version of the flat tortelli (b). Tortelloni may have several types of fillings, both meat-based and vegetarian. A well-known filling is mushroom-based (with porcini mushroom, ricotta, onion, Parmigiano), served with butter and sage(2).
            Common shapes of Italian filled pasta

            (1) “Italian Cuisine: A Cultural History” by Alberto Capatti and Massimo Montanari – Columbia University Press. ISBN: 978-0-231-12232-0
            (2) “The Silver Spoon” – Phaidon Press. ISBN: 978-0-714-84531-9

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