Handmade Tagliolini with Mushrooms

Most Italians would be perfectly happy to eat pasta every day, and some probably do! Everyday pasta is normally dried durum pasta, delicious when of good quality and properly cooked, and also convenient as it can be stored for months in the cupboard. Fresh pasta, on the other hand, is generally regarded as more sophisticated, and it’s more likely to be found on restaurant menus. This recipe describes how to make ‘tagliolini’ from scratch without a pasta machine, and then serve it with a simple wine mushroom sauce. ‘Tagliolini’ is a kind of ‘tagliatelle,’ and is similarly named from the verb ‘tagliare,’ to cut.

Fresh pasta has a different texture and flavor than dried pasta also because of the different ingredients. Eggs are frequently added (most fresh pasta is labeled: ‘pasta all’uovo’) and all-purpose flour is often used instead of durum wheat flour. This is especially true when fresh pasta is made by hand since durum flour is harder to work into shape.

Handmade Tagliolini with Mushrooms

Yield: 2 servings

Total Time: 1 hour

Prep Time: 45 minutes

Cook Time: 15 minutes

Handmade Tagliolini with Mushrooms

Ingredients

     For the tagliolini

    • 100 g (3/4 cup) of flour
    • 1 egg
    • a pinch of salt (1/16 of a tsp)

     For the mushroom sauce

    • 2 cloves of garlic, each peeled and cut into 2 or 3 pieces
    • 5 or 6 medium-sized cremini mushrooms, sliced
    • 2 Tablespoons olive oil
    • a splash of white wine
    • 1/2 cup of double-cream
    • salt & pepper

     For the plating

    • 1/8 cup grated Parmigiano
    • a handful of Italian parsley leaves, minced
    • black pepper, ground

    Preparation

       For the tagliolini

      1. Using your hands, mix the ingredients together (2).
      2. Add just enough warm water (2 o 3 teaspoons) to form a compact, hard ball.
      3. Kneed for a couple of minutes (3).
      4. Have the dough rest, covered in plastic wrap, for 30 minutes at room temperature.
      5. As the dough rests, start bringing a large pot of salty water to a boil (see Cooking Pasta 101) and prepare the sauce.

       For the mushroom sauce

      1. Roast the garlic in the olive oil at medium heat (a) until golden.
      2. Add the cremini mushrooms. Roast them until they soften and start to release some liquid (b).
      3. Add a splash of white wine and wait until it evaporates fully.
      4. Remove the garlic and add the cream. Season with salt and simmer for a few minutes (c).
      5. Turn off the heat and put a lid on the pan to keep the sauce warm and moist.
      6. Mince the parsley and grate the Parmigiano in preparation for the plating.
      7. Unwrap the dough and proceed to roll and cut the tagliolini as shown in the video below.

       To complete the dish

      1. Warm up the sauce adding some pasta water to rehydrate it if necessary.
      2. Boil the pasta for 2 minutes stirring gently (it'll start floating in about a minute).
      3. Drain the pasta quickly and toss it into the pan with the sauce. Mix gently.
      4. Serve in bowls, sprinkle with Parmigiano, parsley, and some ground black pepper.
      5. Enjoy!
      https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/03/handmade-mushroom-tagliolini.html

      Note: This traditional technique makes use of the rolling pin to stretch the dough, as opposed to just pressing it. This process takes a bit of time to master, but it’s easy when making a small batch of noodles. Preparations like ravioli and tortellini are a lot harder to do by hand because they require a thinner dough.

      Tiramisu, the Uplifting Dessert

      Tiramisu (or Tiramisù, as written in Italian) is arguably the world’s most popular Italian dessert after gelato. Featured by many Italian restaurants in North America, Tiramisu is for the Italians more of a homemade party cake and an unpretentious dessert found in pizzerie and trattorie.

      Check out the latest episode of Thoughts on the Table, the podcast on food and food culture. Also available on iTunes and Google Play Music.

      Even though Tiramisu is a modern creation and many claim its paternity, its origins are actually unknown. The consensus is that Tiramisu as we know it became popular in the 1980s, possibly as a variation of the British trifle in which ladyfingers (called ‘savoiardi’ in Italy) and a cream of mascarpone are used instead of sponge cake and custard. Part of the dessert’s success may be due to its odd name. Although it’s the subject of another debate, most concur that it originated in the literal meaning of the Italian words ‘tirami su’: “pull me up” or “pick me up,” possibly referred to the “uplifting” or even “aphrodisiac” effects of coffee and chocolate.

      As described in the recipe below, Tiramisu is commonly flavored with rum (or brandy), coffee and cocoa powder. However, around Italy, there are also versions with very different flavors (e.g. amaretto and peaches, or limoncello and strawberries).

      All versions of Tiramisu are centered around a mascarpone filling which traditionally contains raw eggs (as in the recipe below). There are also egg-less versions in which the mascarpone is blended with whipping cream and sugar, resulting in a richer, but also heavier dessert. North American versions often contain more sugar than their Italian counterparts.

      Like trifle, Tiramisu needs to rest in the fridge for several hours to set and develop flavor. It is common to prepare it the day before and let it rest in the fridge overnight.

      Tiramisu, the Uplifting Dessert

      Yield: 8-10 portions

      Total Time: 45 minutes

      Prep Time: 45 minutes

      Tiramisu, the Uplifting Dessert

      Ingredients

      • 400 g savoiardi

       For the cream

      • 500 g mascarpone cheese (choose a good quality brand - good mascarpone tastes creamy, not cheesy)
      • 5 eggs (at room temperature)
      • 5 Tbsp sugar
      • 2 Tbsp rum (or brandy)

       For the coffee dip

      • 6 shots espresso (or an equivalent amount of strong coffee)
      • 2 Tbsp sugar
      • 1 cup milk
      • 2 Tbsp rum

       For the finish

      • ½ Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder
      • Some shaved dark chocolate (optional)

      Preparation

      1. Whisk together egg yolks and sugar (fig. 1) until the mixture becomes lighter in color.
      2. One tablespoon at a time, incorporate the mascarpone (fig. 2). This operation is considered difficult because mascarpone and egg create an emulsion that can suddenly separate. To help prevent this, use egg yolks at room temperature* and begin by incorporating a "starter mix" made by combining a tablespoon of mascarpone and some beaten egg yolk. If the mascarpone is soft, another great option is to stir the beaten egg yolks into the mascarpone, instead of the other way around.
      3. Add the rum (fig. 3), stir slowly until absorbed.
      4. Add the beaten egg white, mixing gently from the bottom upwards in order to incorporate air (fig. 4). The egg whites will work as a stabilizer and help the mascarpone remain emulsified*.
      5. Set the cream aside (fig. 5).
      6. Prepare the coffee dip by mixing espresso and sugar, then adding milk and rum. Let it completely cool off. Dip each ladyfinger in it for a couple of seconds (fig. 6).
      7. Lay each ladyfinger in the baking pan forming a first layer of cookies (fig. 7).
      8. Add a layer of mascarpone cream, then add one more layer of cookies (fig. 8).
      9. Continue alternating the two ingredients, finishing with a layer of mascarpone (fig. 9).
      10. Using a sifter, generously cover the top with unsweetened cocoa powder (fig. 10).
      11. Then, optionally, add the shaved dark chocolate (fig. 11).
      12. Chill the finished Tiramisu (fig. 12) in the fridge for at least 8 hours, covered with tinfoil.

      Notes

      *Harold McGee. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. 2nd edition (2004).

      https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2012/03/tiramisu-uplifting-dessert.html

       

      Italian Myths – 6 Italian Food Staples Unknown in Italy

      This article is about “Italian” dishes, products, and terms that don’t actually exist in Italy – true Italian myths like Spaghetti with Meatballs (an Italian-American creation), Caesar salad and Italian soda (successful inventions of Italian immigrants), Fettuccini Alfredo, Italian Wedding Soup and “Al fresco” dining (specific Italian items mistaken as traditional).

      Check out the latest episode of Thoughts on the Table, the podcast on food and food culture. Also available on iTunes and Google Play Music.

      Despite their Italian roots, these products don’t represent today’s Italian dining and, in that regard, they can’t be considered authentic. However, they are historically important and offer interesting clues on the North American interpretation of Italian food.

      1. Spaghetti with (big) meatballs

      Probably the biggest Italian myth, widely featured in many Italian restaurants in North America, spaghetti with (big) meatballs are practically absent in Italy. Meatballs on their own, instead, with their many variations, are found almost everywhere in the country under the name ‘polpette’ (from ‘polpa’, pulp).

      How did meatballs end up on spaghetti, then? A similar dish with small meatballs on noodles still exists in parts of southern Italy. As a possible explanation, with their arrival in the big American cities, Italian immigrants found a wider availability of meat and quickly switched away from their vegetable-centered diet. Their deeply rooted craving for pasta, however, didn’t abandon them. As the Italians were being assimilated into the American culture, they also started to favor a large single course (as opposed to multiple smaller courses) and more intense use of spices (especially garlic and oregano). This resulted in the combination of spaghetti and meatballs in a rich tomato sauce, which turned into the iconic dish known in North America.

      2. Fettuccini Alfredo

      Another big Italian myth is Alfredo sauce, along with its most famous use in Fettuccini Alfredo. The name “Alfredo sauce” is almost completely absent in Italy, although there are plenty of pasta sauces that are similarly based on the combination of butter and Parmigiano. For instance, egg noodles, gnocchi, and meatless ravioli (e.g.: with mushrooms, truffles, or ricotta and spinach) are often served with melted butter (sometimes infused with fresh sage) and grated Parmigiano. This type of finish simply goes under the name of “al burro”, with butter. In Rome, egg noodles with butter and Parmigiano are often called “alla Romana”, Roman-style.

      Why is this sauce so famously called “Alfredo” in North America, then? The history behind it is well known, though parts of it are mixed with legend. In 1914, Alfredo di Lelio, a Roman restaurateur who was popular among American tourists, named his butter and cheese linguine after himself. According to the legend, the dish caught the attention of early Hollywood actors Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks, who were in Rome for their honeymoon. When they returned to the US, the actors introduced the dish to their Hollywood friends, making it famous. In 1943 Alfredo di Lelio sold his restaurant, but the new owner kept the menu and is still in business under the name “Alfredo alla Scrofa“. In 1950, Alfredo di Lelio and his son opened a new restaurant in a different location and called it “Il vero Alfredo“, the real Alfredo, which is now managed by Alfredo’s nephews. Both restaurants are popular with North American tourists that want to taste the original Alfredo recipe. Besides these two restaurants, in Italy, “Alfredo” is just a first-name (Alfred).

      3. Italian soda and Italian cream soda

      As one can easily imagine, there is nothing called “Italian soda” in Italy. And there is also nothing that tastes like it. Italy only has a handful of traditional sodas, the main ones are ‘aranciata’ (orange-based), ‘gassosa’ (clear, intensely sparkling and with a sweet lemon flavor), ‘cedrata’ (from the citron fruit), and ‘chinotto’ (based on the uniquely flavored chinotto citrus). North American “Italian sodas”, instead, come in a wide variety of flavors (e.g.: cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, grape, peach, strawberry), all of which tend to be sweeter and more intense than their Italian counterparts.

      How did Italian sodas happen, then? Probably from the Sicilian tradition of making refreshing drinks by pouring small amounts of concentrated syrups in iced still or sparkling water, or on shaved ice (which is what the Italians call a ‘granita’). The most popular flavors are lemon, mint, tamarind, ‘orzata’ (almond flavored), and ‘amarena’ (from sour black cherries). It appears that the Torani Company, a famous syrup maker from Italy, introduced Italian sodas in 1925, in San Francisco, by adding their syrups to soda water. The drink that resulted was well received by the American palate, and more flavors were then added.

      If Italian soda is not really Italian, then “Italian cream soda” is even less so! Industrially made cream soda is usually flavored with vanilla, a pastry-like aroma that would be strange to Italians in a drink. In some North American bars and cafes, cream soda is made by adding cream to carbonated water, which sounds even stranger if not utterly disgusting to any Italian.

      4. Caesar salad

      With absolutely nothing to do with the well known Roman emperor, numerous sources trace the creation of Caesar dressing back to the 1920s and attribute it to Cesare Cardini, an Italian immigrant who owned restaurants in California and in Mexico. According to the legend, chef Cardini came up with his famous dressing by combining leftovers that he found in his kitchen: romaine lettuce, olive oil, garlic, raw egg, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce (which is lightly flavored with anchovies), and Parmesan. The dressing quickly became popular with visiting Hollywood’s celebrities and Cardini expanded his business into large-scale production. In 1948 Cardini trademarked his recipe, but he couldn’t patent the “Caesar Salad” name because it was already entrenched in popular culture. When he died, his daughter Rosa took on the business and worked on expanding the Cardini brand, which she then sold to a third party.

      Despite the fact that the flavors in Caesar salad meet the Italian palate, this dish is unknown in Italy except for a few restaurants that cater to a North American clientele.

      5. Italian wedding soup

      Italian wedding soup is a completely misrepresented dish, not as much for the “Italian” adjective, but for the “wedding” one. There is no wedding soup in Italy – soups are generally humble dishes that lack any festive connotations. The name, in fact, likely comes from a mistranslation of ‘minestra maritata’, married soup, in which vegetables (escarole, cabbage, endive) and meat (sausage or meatballs) symbolically marry in one single dish.

      6. “Al fresco” dining

      Although the Italian words “al fresco” are a common way to say in the freshness of the outdoors, the association between “al fresco” and outdoor dining is not particularly strong in Italy. In the hot Italian summers, dining outdoors is a treat for many. As a result, restaurants often feature patios and gardens or obtain authorization to set up tables on the sidewalks. Despite this, the phrase “mangiare all’aperto”, eating outside, is far more common than “mangiare al fresco”, possibly because “al fresco” also carries the negative connotation of meaning in jail.

      References and further readings:

      More featured articles

      Pasta Calendar Quiz – The Results!

      Thanks to all who played the Pasta Calendar Quiz. If you’re like me and like numbers, you may enjoy this quick update. Spoiler warning! This post will give the correct answers.

      Surprisingly only 43% of the people who played answered correctly to all questions. Another 25% did quite well, though, with just 1 error, 21% made 2 mistakes, 9% made 3, and 2% made 4. Nobody got them all wrong.

      The question that people had the most problems with was: What is the “companatico?” This might have been a little tricky also for the Italians because ‘companatico’ is an archaic word rarely used these days. ‘Companatico’ comes from Late Latin “companaticum” which means “together with bread.” For instance, cheese is companatico. 68% answered correctly, whereas 30% answered: “A side dish that accompanies the main course,” probably mixing up with ‘contorno.’ One person said: “A typical Christmas cake,” probably confusing it with Panettone.

      The other question that was a bit challenging was: If you ask for a “latte” in an Italian bar, what do you get? – a clear trap for the non-Italians :). ‘Latte’ means milk, so, in Italy, if you ask for a ‘latte,’ you get a glass of cold milk (you would need to ask for ‘latte caldo’ to get your milk warmed up.) 79% answered correctly, 17% instead chose: “Steamed milk with a shot of espresso,” which is what you would get outside of Italy, probably short for ‘caffé latte’ – milk with coffe. A small 4% answered: “A strange look from the bartender, pubs don’t sell coffee!”, probably tricked by the word ‘bar,’ which in Italy is associated with a licensed coffee bar, whereas in North America it more often refers to a ‘Martini bar’ or ‘pub.’

      83% answered correctly to the question: In Italy, what does the word “panini” refer to?, which is “Two or more sandwiches of any kind,” hinting to the fact that ‘panini’ is plural of panino, and panino is just the Italian word for sandwich. 17% answered: “A grilled sandwich filled with plenty of Italian cold cuts and cheeses,” which is incorrect on two counts: ‘panini’ (plural) would be more than one sandwich, and authentic Italian sandwiches generally are not filled with plenty of different cold cuts and cheeses. Nobody answered: “A toasted sandwich with ham, cheese, and pickles,” which would be what the Italians call a ‘toast.’

      People did really well with the chemistry-inspired question on when to double the amount of salt when boiling pasta. What matters is the concentration of salt in the water, so salt is proportional to the amount of water (usually, ½ tablespoon per liter). 83% answered correctly, 11% thought that the amount of salt should be proportional to the amount of pasta, and 6% were completely confused and answered that the amount of salt should be doubled when cooking the pasta “al dente.” Al dente means not overcooked, which has little to do with the amount of salt in the water.

      The question on: What is the “aperitivo?” was also very easy for most. 85% gave the correct answer: “A drink to be had before the meal, usually accompanied by a snack,” whereas the rest was equally split between: “The Italian equivalent of the ‘starter’ course,” which would be the antipasto, and: “A drink to be had after the coffee,” which would be the ‘digestivo.’

      Pomegranate with Grappa

      If you’ve only tasted grappa a few times and you found it a bit too dry, you will enjoy this spectacular after-dinner treat of pomegranate seeds soaked in pure grappa.

      The sweetness and the tartness of the pomegranate perfectly balance the harshness of the grappa, which becomes sweeter and more palatable. In return, the grappa lends some of its alcohol to the seeds, giving them a pleasant “kick”.

      Also known as ‘acquavite’ (“grapevine-water”), grappa was born as an unpretentious liqueur made from the byproduct of winemaking (grape skins, seeds, and stems). By the means of distillation and controlled aging, grappa became a more refined product (pun intended!), at par with other fine spirits. Grappa is popular in all northern Italy, and especially in the northeast, where the city of Bassano del Grappa (60 km from Venice) is home to the prestigious brand Nardini.

      Straight grappa is traditionally used as a digestive, although its pronounced dryness makes it an acquired taste for most people. More widely appreciated is the use of grappa as a coffee add-in, called ‘correzione’ (“correction”) by the Italians. A caffe corretto (“corrected coffee”) is a traditional twist to the espresso ritual, an after-dinner favorite as it combines coffee and digestive. Aromatized grappa also targets larger audiences, especially in its fruit-infused varieties, such as blueberry (‘mirtillo’), pear (‘pera’), and pomegranate (‘melograno’).

      Pomegranate with Grappa

      Yield: 4 shots

      Prep Time: 15 minutes

      Pomegranate with Grappa

      Ingredients

      • 1 pomegranate
      • 2 shots of unflavored grappa

      Preparation

      1. Extract the seeds out of the pomegranate, place them in the shot glasses.
      2. Fully cover them with grappa, let them rest for 15 minutes.
      3. Serve in shot glasses, along with coffee spoons.
      https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/11/pomegranate-with-grappa.html

       

      Search Queries

      One of the most interesting aspects of keeping a blog is to look up the statistics on how people come across it. Aside from being referred by other websites, many visitors stumble upon the blog by using search engines. When they do, the exact sentence that they typed in into the search bar is collected in the statistics (although anonymized).

      This atypical post contains the verbatim transcripts of some of the most interesting search queries that I have seen over the 15 months of running Quatro Fromaggio and Other Disgraces on the Menu. Some of these queries led the visitors to relevant articles which hopefully answered them. Some other queries instead brought up pages that did not satisfy the visitor at all. For some of those, this post also tries to provide some answers. In a way, this post was written by the visitors themselves!

      To get started, something that surprised me. Some people were able to get here by performing extremely generic searches. Here are some examples:
      Q: what to eat in Italy
      Q: type of italian food
      Q: typical italian breakfast
      Q: various cheese names and their origin
      Q: frequently mispronounced Italian
      Q: most often misspelled italian words
      A: Answering these questions is really hard, but if you read this blog you’ll hopefully get an idea 🙂

      Speaking of spelling, many visits came from people who were unsure how to write Italian words. For instance:
      Q: correct spelling of margarita pizza
      Q: correct spelling of osso bucca
      Q: correct spelling of proscuitto
      Q: foccaccia misspelling
      Q: fromaggio or formaggio
      A: Pizza Margherita, Osso Buco, Prosciutto, Focaccia, Formaggio (see Top Misspelled).

      Other people were instead completely confused on the meaning of some Italian words:
      Q: what is formaggio cheese
      Q: how many cheeses i n qu atro formaggi pizza
      Q: how many cheese’s in a formaggi cheese
      Q: what is formaggio cheese in english
      Q: is parmesan cheese the same as formaggio cheese
      Q: what cheese can i use in place of formaggio
      A:Formaggio‘ is Italian for cheese. “Parmesan” is the English translation of Parmigiano, a type of formaggio.

      Q: in cuisine what does colazione mean
      Q: colazione for breakfast
      A:Colazione‘ is Italian for breakfast.

      Some people got here while looking for tips and tricks on Italian food and wine. These are some examples:
      Q: why should cored wine bottles be stored on their side?
      A: To keep the cork wet, as a dry cork will shrink and let some air into the bottle.

      Q: “passito de pantelleria “once opened”
      A: Fortified wines such as Passito di Pantelleria usually keep really well, they can be stored in a cool place or in the fridge for quite some time. See the Wine and Italy article for more information.

      Q: porcini risotto “dirty water”
      Q: do i have to wash porcini mushrooms before rehydrating them
      A: The leftover water where the mushrooms have been re-hydrated may or may not be clean (it depends on whether the mushrooms had been cleaned before being dried). Personally, I don’t find that using that water adds that much flavor to my risotto, so I discard it. However, I don’t squeeze or rinse the re-hydrated mushrooms.

      Q: perforated pan on top of a pizza stone
      Q: perforated pizza disc versus regular pizza disc
      A: As far as I know, the perforated pan works better than a regular pizza pan, but it’s used directly in the oven – not on top of a pizza stone. The pizza stone (alone) works best, but it’s harder to use.

      Q: can prosciutto ham be kept unrefrigerated
      A: No. The whole uncut prosciutto can be stored at low temperatures; once opened it needs to go in the fridge.

      Q: where to fill demi johns with amarone della valpolicella
      A: I don’t know, but let me know as soon as you find out!

      Sometimes the results of searches must have been really disappointing! For example for queries like:
      Q: dolcetto d’asti wine kit
      A: Seriously? You can’t have a wine kit for a DOC wine, sorry! Unless of course you live in Piedmont 🙂

      Q: what white wine goes with limoncello
      A: Limoncello is a liqueur. Why would you pair a wine and a liqueur?

      Other times instead, people were really onto something. For instance:
      Q: why italians call a croissant, brioche?
      A: Because they don’t know French pastries 🙂

      Q: is gelati plural for gelato
      A: Yes!

      Q: is formaggio another word for cheese
      A: You got it!

      People also wondered about weird stuff, or they wanted to know they’re not alone:
      Q: what is the italian gelati flavour that tastes like cough medicine
      A: Amarena? (Sour cherry)

      Q: most popular mouthwash in italy
      A: I don’t know… but it’s probably mint flavored.

      Q: which type of pasta goes best with aglio
      A: Aglio is Italian for garlic. I hope you mean ‘aglio, olio e peperoncino’, in which case I’d say ‘spaghetti’.

      Q: soft meringue is disgusting
      A: I agree 🙂

      Some people wanted to know more about the Italian multi-course meal:
      Q: italian courses in a meal
      A: See the Italian Courses article.

      Q: what is companatico and why am i charged for it
      A: ‘Companatico’ is the collective name given to anything that goes with bread. That is the entire meal 🙂 No wonder why you were charged!

      Or they had specific questions about the Italian breakfast:
      Q: italians eat cold cuts for breakfast
      A: Some do, but most don’t. It’s more common in the northern regions, near the border with Austria.

      Q: qhat to eat dor breakfast in italian bars
      A: The most popular breakfast in bars is cappuccino and croissant. See the Breakfast or Colazione article.

      Q: what do italians eat for brunch
      A: Brunch is not an Italian tradition. When Italians feel like a late breakfast, they just call it early lunch.

      Q: reasons italians don’t have milk in their coffee
      A: A lot of Italians do, actually. Not the majority though.

      Q: what do italians enjoy with their coffee
      A: It depends – something sweet, some chocolate, a glass of mineral water.

      Lots of searches were also about autogrill, aperitivo and antipasto.
      Q: autogrill panini italy
      Q: camogli autogrill
      Q: how to order at autogrill italy
      A: See the Autogrill article. It’s particularly interesting that people don’t know how to order at an autogrill. It’s probably not the most obvious process 🙂

      Q: appertivo – free buffet offered at bars during the happy hour
      Q: best aperitivo in milan
      Q: non alcoholic aperitivo
      A: See the Aperitivo article.

      Q: antipasto pickled in oil
      Q: antipasto with tuna and pickled vegetables
      Q: types of green olives for antipasto
      A: See the Antipasto article.

      Many people were interested in learning more about Italian wine:
      Q: term for wine in italy with atleast 1% more alcohol than the legal minimum
      Q: uva fragola wine illegal italy
      Q: what does the term “novello” indicate on a wine label?
      A: The term for a wine whose alcohol level is greater by at least 1% than the minimum established for its designation is ‘Superiore’. The wine “Fragolino” (made with ‘uva fragola’, Concord grape) is illegal in Italy. The term ‘Novello’ indicates that the wine has been bottled within the end of the year of when (at least 30% of) its grapes have been harvested. See the Wine and Italy article for more information.

      Or Italian cheese:
      Q: mozzarella cheese in north america compared to italy
      A: Italian mozzarella is better than North American mozzarella, and mozzarella from Naples is better than mozzarella from Milan.

      Q: what cheese is aged less than 6 months
      A: All fast and medium ripening cheeses (e.g.: Mascarpone, Taleggio, Gorgonzola). See the Formaggio Cheese article for more information.

      Q: what is the name for cottage cheese in italy
      Q: what kind of cheese is sottilette
      A: The Kraft product “Jocca” is cottage cheese. ‘Sottilette’ is (processed) cheese slices.

      Q: what cheese do you use in quatro formaggi
      A: There isn’t a rule, any four kinds of cheese will do. On pizza, they are usually chosen between gorgonzola, scamorza, ricotta, fontina, grana padano; plus of course mozzarella (which may or may not be counted).

      Q: formaggio taleggio in north america buy
      A: Specialty Italian stores usually have it.

      Q: what kind of cheese mixes well with gorgonzola
      A: It’s an interesting question. Gorgonzola is normally eaten by itself (delicious on bread!). It is however mixed with other cheese when making cheese sauces, or on gorgonzola pizza (where mozzarella is also added). Another interesting mix is the Torta al Gorgonzola e Mascarpone.

      Or gelato:
      Q: ice cream in italy
      Q: semi fredi gelato
      Q: what is the meaning of gelato
      A: ‘Gelato’ literally means frozen. It may resemble ice-cream, but it’s a completely different product. A ‘semi-freddo’ is the equivalent of an ice cream cake. See the article on Gelato vs. Ice Cream for more information.

      Or even the soft drink “Chinotto”:
      Q: what does chinotto taste like
      Q: aftertaste chinotto
      A: Chinotto is a citrus used to make a popular Italian soft drink. Its bitter aftertaste makes it an acquired flavor.

      Italian dressing is also often puzzling to people:
      Q: what kind of vinegar is in italian dressing?
      Q: what oil is most commonly used in italian dressing
      Q: different types of italian dressings
      Q: how do italians dress their salads
      Q: what kind of oil and vinegar goes on a table
      A: See the Italian Dressing article.

      People were also interested in the proper way to cook pasta, and some were particularly confused on this regard! For instance:
      Q: why it is suggegted to cook the food in salty water
      Q: how salty should water for pasta be?
      Q: how much salt stays with pasta
      A: Salted water gives flavor to the pasta and makes it less likely to stick to itself. Typically, ½ Tbsp of salt is needed for every 4 cups of water. Not much salt will be actually absorbed by the pasta. See the Cooking Pasta 101 article for more information.

      Q: “dried egg noodles” gram per person
      Q: how much fresh pasta for a first course
      Q: how much pasta is a serving in italy?
      Q: 80g raw pasta how much cooked
      Q: how much is 60g of pasta
      A: See the Cooking Pasta 101 article.

      Q: which italian pasta doesnt overcook?
      Q: what does it mean when it says cook pasta raw
      A: Every pasta eventually overcooks. Quality durum semolina pasta takes longer to cook and therefore it also takes longer to overcook. Cooking pasta ‘raw’ doesn’t mean anything, cooking pasta ‘al dente’ (to the tooth) means that the cooked pasta should be firm enough to require it to be chewed. See the Pasta 101 article for more information.

      People were also quite interested in gnocchi:
      Q: what sauce should gnocchi be served with?
      Q: fist size gnocchi
      Q: gnocchetti alla romana
      Q: ricer alternative gnocchi
      A: Gnocchi are served pretty much with any kind of pasta sauces. Perhaps we can consider ‘canederli‘ as fist-size gnocchi. ‘Gnocchi alla Romana’ are made with semolina flour (and no potatoes). In making gnocchi, a potato masher or a food mill can be used as an alternative to the potato ricer.

      But they were mostly curious about “Pizzoccheri della Valtellina” – the article which has the highest number of hits to date:
      Q: pizzoccheri meaning
      Q: pizzoccheri what sort of cheese should i use
      Q: what is an equivalent to valtellina casera cheese
      A: the name Pizzoccheri has nothing to do with pizza. According to their official website, it derives from ‘pinzocheri’, which jokingly means “bigot people”. ‘Valtellina Casera’ cheese can be replaced with other mild semi-cooked cheeses (such as young Fontina, Montasio, Raclette or Gouda).

      Finally, other people were instead more into science and wanted to find out how certain ingredients compare between Italy and North America.

      For instance, they look for facts about olive oil:
      Q: facts about italy’s olive oil
      Q: fats and oils triangle
      A: See the Olive Oil Facts article.

      Or about rice:
      Q: indica and japonica rice examples
      Q: relative absorption of water different type of rice
      A: See the Rice Demystified article.

      Or milk:
      Q: difference between italian and american milk
      Q: is milk in italy fortified with vitamin d
      Q: pasteurized milk shelf life canada italy
      Q: does milk in italy taste different
      A: Italian milk has a shorter shelf life, and it’s not fortified with Vitamin D. The difference in flavor is mostly due to the cows’ different diet.

      Q: is italian milk homoginized
      A: Yes, it’s homogenized.

      Q: does italy have pasteurized milk
      A: Yes, though unpasteurized milk can also be found. See the There’s Milk and Milk article for more information.

      Frittatona di Cipolle – A Hidden Italian Favorite

      This is probably one of the least blogged recipes – it doesn’t look too good in pictures and no Italian would make it for their guests. But this simple dish is one of the favorite things that Italians make for themselves when nobody is watching! ‘Frittata di cipolle’ (or ‘frittatona’ when it’s big, as “Fantozzi” would say) is basically scrambled eggs with sautéed onions. Is it that simple? Yes, but it’s one of those dishes where you need to pay attention or it may not turn out as good as it can.

      Frittatona di Cipolle

      Yield: 1 serving 🙂

      Total Time: 10 minutes

      Prep Time: 5 minutes

      Cook Time: 5 minutes

      Frittatona di Cipolle

      Ingredients

      • ½ of a small onion (or 1 shallot, if you want a more delicate flavor)
      • 2 eggs (I prefer brown eggs, the color of their yolk is more appealing to me)
      • 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter
      • salt & pepper

      Preparation

      1. Slice the onion thinly and evenly.
      2. In a large non-stick pan, sauté the onion in the butter at medium-low for 10-15 minutes until golden and tender.
      3. Lightly beat the eggs in a bowl, then stir in a pinch of salt and add one teaspoon of water.
      4. Add the beaten eggs to the onions, maintaining the same heat (medium-low).
      5. Gently fold the egg mix over as it starts to firm up, incorporating the onions.
      6. Keep folding for a couple of minutes until the mix is cooked uniformly, but still slightly underdone - this is important because it will keep cooking in the plate.
      7. Enjoy with some pepper and an icy-cold beer!
      https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/09/frittatona-di-cipolle.html

      Bell Pepper Pasta

      Italians rarely get tired of a good tomato sauce, but when they do they often resort to a tomato sauce variation. This recipe is based on the simple addition of roasted bell peppers, and of chili for some heat. The resulting sauce is great on pasta, but it also doubles as a tasty dip for toasted bread. The peppers are sliced, roasted in olive oil and then added to a tomato base. If the skins are unwanted or if a smoother texture is desired, the cooked peppers can be strained in a food mill.

      Bell Pepper Pasta

      Yield: 2 servings

      Total Time: 40 minutes

      Prep Time: 5 minutes

      Cook Time: 35 minutes

      Bell Pepper Pasta

      Ingredients

      • 1 cup tomato sauce
      • 2 small bell peppers, red or yellow (seeded and sliced)
      • 1 tablespoon olive oil
      • half of a fresh chili (minced) or 1 teaspoon of chili flakes
      • 140 g dried pasta (e.g.: farfalle, fusilli, rigatoni)
      • a sprinkle of Parmigiano (freshly grated, optional)
      • salt

      Preparation

      1. In a non-stick pan, roast the pepper in olive oil along with the fresh chili (if using it) for 5 minutes at high.
      2. Lower the heat, add the chili flakes (if using them) and cook for 15 minutes covered, adjust the salt.
      3. Strain the peppers in a food mill.
      4. Collect the pulp and discard the skins.
      5. Put the pepper purée back in the non-stick pan and add the tomato sauce.
      6. Cook for another 5 minutes to blend the flavors.
      7. Meanwhile, boil the pasta in salty water for the time indicated on the box.
      8. When the pasta is ready, drain it and serve it with the sauce and a sprinkle of grated Parmigiano (optional).
      https://www.disgracesonthemenu.com/2011/08/bell-pepper-pasta.html

      Panino, the Italian Sandwich

      Check out the latest episode of Thoughts on the Table, the podcast on food and food culture. Also available on iTunes and Google Play Music.

      In Italy, just like in all Europe and North America, a ‘panino’ (Italian for sandwich) is a popular lunch option, and in some cases also a quick dinner alternative. Italian bars often press-grill their sandwiches to enhance the flavors, turn the bread more fragrant and crunchy, and melt any cheese. However, at home, or when bakery-fresh bread is available, the Italians enjoy non-grilled sandwiches just the same.

      This article describes both styles of Italian sandwich: the world-famous grilled sandwich (known as Panini) and the less known un-grilled version.

      Going back to the word “panini”, in Italian it refers to all sandwiches – and it’s plural. «One sandwich» translates as ‘un panino’ (from ‘pane’, bread). «Two sandwiches» translates as ‘due panini’ and shouldn’t be re-pluralized as Paninis – it causes native Italians to cringe!

      A “Panini” press

      Grilled panini are prepared in a “Panini” press (called ‘piastra’, literally: plate). In Italy, they generally feature established combinations of fillings, though these combinations don’t have universally assigned names. Common types of bread used are: ciabatta, francesino (a small French-style roll), and in some cases focaccia. Classic fillings combinations are:

      • mozzarella, tomato (plus arugula and/or prosciutto cotto or crudo);
      • prosciutto cotto or crudo, fontina, salsa rosa (“pink sauce”, made of mayonnaise, ketchup and whiskey);
      • prosciutto cotto or crudo, brie (plus lettuce and/or tomato);
      • prosciutto cotto, brie, olive tapenade;
      • prosciutto crudo or bresaola, goat cheese or stracchino (plus lettuce and/or tomato);
      • speck (smoked cured prosciutto from Tyrol), brie, salsa rosa;
      • speck, goat cheese, arugula;
      • grilled vegetables and cheese (see below for a recipe).

      When Italian panini are offered outside of Italy, they tend to differ quite substantially. The biggest no-no’s are the use of:

      • More than one kind of meat (although it may happen in some cases, this is very unlikely in Italy);
      • Large amounts of meat (in Italy, more than a few slices would be considered overpowering);
      • Too many ingredients (in Italy, it’s never more than 3 or 4 in total);
      • Any kind of dressing (oil and vinegar are for salads, not for sandwiches!);
      • Honey-mustard, barbecue sauce, spicy mayo (since they don’t exist in Italy).

      For un-grilled Italian sandwiches, bread rolls that are light and crunchy are generally used (for instance the michetta, known in some parts of Italy as ‘rosetta’ or ‘tartaruga’). As far as fillings go, they generally include one feature ingredient, for instance:

      • prosciutto ‘crudo’ (raw, cured pork);
      • prosciutto ‘cotto’ (Italian ham);
      • coppa, also known as capicollo (also cured pork);
      • salame (cured sausage);
      • Italian bologna (not to be confused with Baloney!) and other kinds of mortadella;
      • pancetta (Italian bacon);
      • bresaola (cured beef);
      • porchetta.

      Sometimes, fresh greens and/or cheese may be added to complement the flavor. For instance, prosciutto crudo may be had with ‘stracchino‘ and arugula; prosciutto cotto with fontina. Other classic options include cold frittata (e.g.: with herbs or roasted zucchini), or cold breaded veal cutlet.

      ~~~~~

      Now, onto the recipe for the grilled panino in the picture above – a slight variation on the grilled vegetables and cheese theme, thanks to the addition of spicy roasted onions.

      Ingredients for 2 panini
      – One small onion (sliced)
      – 2 bell peppers, red or yellow (seeded and each cut in 4 wedges)
      – 2 zucchini (sliced)
      – 100 g provolone, scamorza or fontina (sliced)
      – one handful of fresh arugula (washed and dried)
      – 1 tablespoon of olive oil
      – salt and cayenne pepper

      Preparation
      – In a non-stick pan, roast the onion in olive oil at medium heat for 5 minutes, then lower the temperature and cook for an additional 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and cayenne pepper.
      – Using a sandwich press, grill the bell peppers (lightly sprinkled with salt) for 20-30 minutes at medium heat.
      – When the peppers are ready, put them aside and peel off the skin (it should come off easily – if it doesn’t, let the peppers rest for 10 minutes in a sealed zip-lock while they are still warm).
      – Grill the zucchini (also sprinkled with salt) for 10-15 minutes at medium heat.
      – When the zucchini are ready, put them aside and roughly wipe the grill clean, while keeping it turned on.
      – Assemble the sandwich by layering the cheese, the grilled vegetables, and the roasted onions.
      – Warm up the sandwiches in the press until the cheese melts. Then add the fresh arugula and serve.

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